Replies

1. 
   SCFrankland | Jun 17, 2002 05:28pm | #1

   Try is link. I think it maybe what you are looking for.

   http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=20011&category=1,110,42965&ccurrency=1&SID=

   Scott C. Frankland

   Newfoundland Wood Worker

1. 
   GT602 | Jun 19, 2002 03:09pm | #4

   Scott-Gacias--Lee Valley...and a reply from NewFoundland...always wanted to get to your neck of the woods...one of this years I'll get a vacation together for it...

1. 
   SCFrankland | Jun 19, 2002 04:11pm | #5

   Well let me be the first to tell you that anything you need while in my neck of the woods just let me know. I would be more than happy to help with anything that I can.

   So what part of the world do you haul from?

   Scott C. Frankland

   Newfoundland Wood Worker

2. 
   Hempstalk | Jun 17, 2002 09:16pm | #2

   G2 is a type of two part epoxy.  This is what is written on the bottle.  It is specifically formulated for the best possible bonding to oily and acidic woods.  It provides a waterproof bond for all types of woods, most metals, rocks and gems, concrete and non waxy plastics.  The unique variable proportioning feature makes G2 the best adhesive to use in a wide range of applications.  I've used this glue for thin strip laminating in teak and joinery in Cocobolo with excellent results.  The variable mixing proportions is very handy for different applications.  The product is made by IFC (Industrial formulators of Canada) and is available through Lee Valley as mentioned earlier.  Maybe search for a web site as well.  This is a big company offering many type of products.  Should have a site.  Hope this helps

1. 
   GT602 | Jun 19, 2002 03:04pm | #3

   Thanks for info- I'll look up Lee Valley's sight. This product sounds like it will give me the peace of mind for doing the glue-up I need without worrying that the furniture-- etc.-- I'm making won't self-destruct with the first child or coffee cup that rests on it.

3. 
   PlaneWood | Jun 20, 2002 07:01pm | #6

   I use 2 part clear epoxy.  Takes about 10 hrs to set up depending on temperature.  If the exterior of the wood is real waxy, then wash with acetone first.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy
   PlaneWood

1. 
   GT602 | Jun 25, 2002 08:35pm | #9

   Mike-thanks for the information on the Coco glue-up. Ironically I know who you are through your web sight for handles for planes. I sent you an e-mail awhile back. Actually what happen was I planned on buying some handles for my planes from you....however a day or two later I found myself with a knee injury that kept me from doing much for about six weeks...consequently I make myself new knobs and handles for about 16 of my planes. Just for kicks.. I figured out that the Record plastic handles are the same angle 65 degrees as the old wood ones. The knobs are 2 5/8" tall by 1 5/8 from the factory. I actually made mine 2 1/2" tall by 1 15/16" and the handles I make are a hybrid of Clifton/Lie-Neilsen.(I did this for the #8 and 5 1/2 Records). I found that for my hand thicker is better and ended up at about 1 1/8 thickness as ideal for comfort because I can round over and it give the palm excellent comfort. As your sight mentioned it became rather addicting to find the perfect grip and size for each plane. I found that Clifton planes had a nice grip but lacked the Lie-Neilsen curve at the top that give the protection to Thumb/Hand. I have to say that making these individually with drill press, bandsaw and files I can't imagine the economics you've achieved. I know templates have to be the answer but even still I commend you. I spent about 4 hours on a handle to get the "right fit". Other miscellaneous. I learned from Lie-Neilsen that their handle rod angle is 70 degrees. The Clifton's (mine anyway) were 65 degrees for the #3 and #4 and about 64 degrees for the #5 and #6 should you ever be making repros in the future. Thanks for your response if I know people looking for handles for their planes I'll refer them to you your stuff looks real nice and now I can really appreciate the effort to reproduce them.

4. 
   dhpascoe | Jun 20, 2002 11:31pm | #7

   Ditto on the epoxy. It's the perferred choice for teak which is about as oilly as wood gets. Never seen a joint let go.

5. 
   Sherwoodworks | Jun 22, 2002 01:07am | #8

   I have used poly with success.  I made a serving tray with a Coco frame and a 1/4" venered panel for the base.  THe frame joints were simple mitre with vertical splines.  I did a good wipe with acetone, then poly'd one side, moinsted the other.  That was about 2 years ago and the tray has held up very well.

   Like the other, I would probably use the epoxy in more critcal joints, but the planes mitres in 3/8' coco, poly worked great.  -  Sherwud