I’ve started my first veneer project – a roughly 3×4 foot coffee table. The top will be an MDF core, with some very nice looking wormy ambrosia maple veneer I found, flattened, and trimmed. (A simple cherry veneer on the back.) Rather than invest in a vacuum setup for what may be just one project, I built a press, and planned on using a urea formaldehyde glue.
My problem so far has been the worm holes. I was able to darken the bottom of the holes by applying a cherry gel stain to the MDF prior to gluing, but worry that the holes will collect dust, dirt, spilled liquids, etc. I had planned on an oil based poly finish. I’ve tried filling the holes with glue (absorbed into the wood), filler (darkened the surrounding wood), and paint (wicked into the veneer). The holes don’t need to be fully filled, just enough so that stuff doesn’t collect in them.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance.
David
Replies
Holes
I would give the veneer, after it is glued down, its first seal coat of Poly and when thats dry, dab the holes with the Green(gap filling) or yellow (medium) CA glue and carefully sand them down. Repeat if necessary.
The Gel staining may be an OOps, glue doesn't like to stick to it, dye would have been much better.
Experiment on scrap first to see if it meets your approval.
Epoxy makes a great filler - it bonds well and dries very hard. And it can easily be tinted with fresco powders. You might have to experiment with some different products to get the right viscosity - don't think one can thin epoxy. But before curing, dip the tip of an awl or similar to pick up a small drop, then deposit right in the worm hole. Epoxy doesn't creep, so it shouldn't migrate across the surrounding surface.
To get a uniform sheen afterwords, you might have to fill the hole slightly above the surface and then level with sandpaper or a card scraper.
I always scratch the surface of MDF before gluing with 80 grit to help with bonding, might be even more advisable with the gel stain applied.
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