Replies

1. 
   KeithNewton | Apr 17, 2007 05:11am | #1

   I have had good success with spray contact. I like to leave the leather larger than needed, and spray both parts, and then quickly lay the substrate on the contact while still wet. You can then flip it over and smooth it out with the hands from the middle out, and even roll any problem spots, or even lift the edge, and spray in a little more before stretching and re-sticking. It will still dry OK, and is safer this way than trying to picking up the leather, and having it fold and stick to itself.

   Trim the edges after everything has dried.

1. 
   swannyww | Jun 05, 2010 04:55pm | #12

   I use Master cement from Marilu products (952-854-0140) in Minnesota.  It is also great for leather and veneer because it is thin enough and flexible enough to avoid any glue thickness problems as well as expansion and contraction.  Water proof and can be removed by using Master thinner if the leather needs to be replaced.  No need for a veneer press with this product as it sticks on contact and it doesn't warp the veneer or leather because it isn't water based.  Dries and sets fast so you aren't waiting to continue on with your project.

2. 
   mudman | Apr 17, 2007 05:31am | #2

   I have used contact adhesive (the same I use for laminate) for leather covered inset panels. There are products specifically for the purpose. Search leather adhesive in Google and you will find several. For your aplication I think that I would use a product intended for the application.

   Pardon my spelling,

   Mike

   Make sure that your next project is beyond your skill and requires tools you don't have. You won't regret it.

3. 
   RMillard | Apr 17, 2007 01:11pm | #3

   Luke,

   I've have used wheat paste with excellent results. I used to be able to buy wall paper paste, but I can't find true wheat based pastes anymore, so I have to make my own from hot water and flour ( there are recipes on the net).

   I think regular liquid hide glue would also work well.

   The only thing I would be concerned about is the warping from these water based glues, so I would glue the leather on, with the top attached to the base.

   Rob Millard

   http://www.americanfederalperiod.com

4. 
   bladeburner | Apr 17, 2007 03:02pm | #4

   This may help.

   http://www.thistothat.com/

5. 
   AzDiscDog | Apr 17, 2007 05:46pm | #5

   Another tip is to be aware of / beware of the bias of the leather. Leather is more of a textile, and has a 'give' to it depending upon how hard you pull or push. Different cuts of leather have differing bias. You specifically said "shoe leather", so I suspect it has a pretty low bias, but work the pieces by hand to see before you put the glue down.

   If you end up pushing or pulling too hard while working it smooth, you may distort the grain of the leather and create a noticeable blemish. Unfortunately, "too hard" in this case is going to be dependent upon the cut of leather.

   Hope that helps save you from a mis-step!

   Glen

1. 
   quietude | Apr 17, 2007 07:04pm | #6

   Thanks for the tip. That is exactly the sort of thing that I wouldn't have thought of until I'd ruined a couple of pieces. I'm going to try it with hot hide glue, so at least I could if necessary get it back off. Thanks for the advice on the glue everyone. Any recommendations on gram weight or strength of glue for this project?

1. 
   citrouille | Apr 18, 2007 01:36am | #7

   Traditionally hot hide glue is used for this application, in my experience rabbit skin glue works much better than regular hide glue.
   Test on a scrap piece for dilution, you don't want the glue to soak the leather and come through.C.Edited 4/17/2007 6:38 pm ET by citrouille

   Edited 4/17/2007 6:38 pm ET by citrouille

6. 
   allenb | Apr 19, 2007 05:56am | #8

   http://antiquerestorers.com/LEATHERinstall.htm

   Check this.

7. 
   swenson | May 24, 2010 09:33am | #9

   I have used contact cement, dry method, on leather faces of mallets that have taken a beating for years and are still going strong.  You have to be very careful using the dry method though as once the two surfaces touch they are stuck for good.  Keeping them apart with a sheet of heavy paper works well.  You slowly remove the paper as you press the dry glued sides together.

8. 
   Metod | May 24, 2010 11:27am | #10

   Yellow glue did just fine for me. My earliest desk had been used daily for more than 20 years.

   Best wishes,

   Metod

9. 
   WillGeorge | May 30, 2010 01:03pm | #11

   Glue to use? What better than animal glue for the task. NO, I do not hate animals.. I would think that I would hope some animal died to make the glue and NOT killed for it... Never had a cow or a horse as a pet.. I rode many horses and as a child I had to clean the cows butts.. Do not ask me.. I really did it.. Not that bad of a job.. I think better than chopping wood for the fire place...

   When I die.. I would have no problem with somebody making glue with my remains.. I could live along time gluing some venner to a front drawer that some beautiful woman opened every day....

10. 
    Deleted | Jul 18, 2019 03:38am | #13

    “[Deleted]”