I am about to start building the prototypes for my kitchen cabinets – using the laundry room to practice. I will be building euro-style cases and am using 3/4″ pre-finished maple plywood for the cases and backs. I plan to assemble the cases with biscuits and was wondering what the best glue would be for the cut edge to the finished side. I know I need carpenters glue to make the biscuits swell but wonder whether it will stick to the finish.
Thanks for your advice!
Wayne
Replies
Yellow glue won't stick to a film-finished surface. Poly glue will give you a bit of grip on such surfaces, but won't do anything for swelling biscuits, though it would fill any gaps in the slots.
Are you finishing the plywood before you cut it up, or buying it like that?
I bought the plywood that way. I'm guessing if I use biscuits for alignment, which will need yellow glue, I will still need some other glue or mechanical fastener to make the joint work, or cut a rabbit to give me raw wood to glue to (and skip the biscuits). Was hoping to skip the rabbit step...
There are several discussions on Woodweb, for one website-there are many more--about butt joint v. dado construction, Confirmat screws v. dowels, etc. Here's one to start you off. Discussions about melamine-faced material would be comparable to your pre-finished ply, in that you get minimal glue-holding power from the face of the material.I would use a dado (instead of your mentioned rabbet) on upper cab sides to enclose the lower shelf.
Edited 1/29/2005 1:51 am ET by splintergroupie
yellow glue for the biscuits, liquid nails panel adhesive or power grab panel adhesive for the butt joint. Do a sample first to make sure it grabs. You may need to scuff the face of the finished panel @ the joint for a little for adhesion.
Craig,
That's where I was headed. Just spoke to the vendor and they said abraiding the suface may help, but most people use mechanical fasteners. I will do the test you suggested and let everyone know how it turns out.
Thanks to everyone for the great ideas!
Wayne
Use a few biscuits for alinement and pocket screws for fixing together. You should beable to hide all the screws.
Wayne
I dont have the answer for you but where are you getting the prefinished plywood?
Doug
Plywood and Lumber Supply in Oakland (locations also in San Jose and San Francisco):
http://www.pals4wood.com/
They have just a little bit of choice, like 18 different types of hard maple plywood:
http://www.pals4wood.com/palsinventory.pdf
Here is the stuff I'm using (clear finish):
http://www.statesind.com/prod/ind_2a3.html
I can vouch for the liquid nails assembly route. I've used it on several case goods, and had great luck. In fact, I made some simple shelving in the shop, and as a test simply "liquid nailed" the shelving to the vertical panels. No dadoes, no bracing, no fasteners (except the 18 ga. brads to hold everything in place until it set up). I've stored heavy items on these shelves for over a year with no failure.
I'm not familiar with 'pre-finished plywood' (melamine? lacquer?) but we make carcasses out of melamine faced board every day in the European style.
We biscuit our carcasse & use 'Melamine Adhesive' to all cut edges which abut melamine, & whilst we could also use it in the biscuit slots I just prefer we use a crosslinking PVA. Melamine adhesive "will bond a variety of porous materials such as timber, particle board & MDF to non porous substrates such as rigid foam, melamine & vinyl coated surfaces & cultured marble". I buy it from my board supplier.
Polyurethane type adhesives are likely to cause you grief if they foam out along the glue line but they will stick.
There are a number of cabinet shops that I know that use screws, staples/nails (or a combination) & do not glue at all. I prefer biscuits to make alignment easier, & as we have been doing it this way for quite a few yrs it becomes second nature.
You will also find it easier to drill your hinge mounting plate (& if you use them, the adjustable shelf) holes before assembly.
Don
Don,
Thanks for your reply. The plywood I'm using has 2 topcoats of "UV Cured 100% solid epoxy acrylate". I'm told that from a bonding/gluing perspective it is similar to melamine. Your post got me going in that direction and sure enough there are a number of melamine glues out there. Now I just have to track down a local supplier.
I'm also going to try PL Premium. It's a thick type of polyurathane adhesive, comes in a caulking tube. I don't get the foaming with it like I do with Gorilla Glue or other more liquid polyuratanes.
Good point on the pre-drilling. I'm also going to pre-drill the drawer glide (Blum Tandem) holes before assembly.
Wayne
So did you use glue on the cases? Bisquets too? I'm going to try pocket screws and am thinking about some kind of glue. I'm not sure the glue is needed but if I can find anything that adds strength and doesn't make a mess I'll consider it.
I just used glue on the biscuits and then screwed the cases togehter. They are euro style so none of the screws show anyway(sides and back only; end panel screwed on from the inside.
The glue in the biscuits is all you need. Have done plenty of cabinets with melamine over the years with no problems. Standard procedure in the industry except the bigger shops use construction boring machines and dowels or confirmat screws for ready to assemble.
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