Here’s a discussion brought over from Tools for Woodworking. We’ve been talking about squaring up a euro slider (my Minimax 3) and have sorted that out very nicely. Thanks guys. In the discussion though, I wrote:
“Recently I’ve been dimensioning and squaring-up using the right-side rip fence and a beautiful Freud blade reserved for that work, and I’ve been really impressed with the results. The pieces in the attached panel were glued up straignt from the saw!” <!—-><!—->
And Dondownunder responded :
“A bit of a secret (that you’ve also discovered) and one which will get many purists diving for their valium 🙂 is that for 9 years I’ve been gluing straight off the saw. We use the sliding table to true edges after planing and skim thicknessing, and the right fence to gauge width. Choice of blade is important of course, but it isn’t rocket science.”
My questions: do many people do this? Is it a widely used production shop technique? What’s the best blade? For me, it certainly works. An unexpected benefit of a good saw and a marvelous blade! <!—->
Malcolm
Edited 1/20/2005 3:33 pm ET by kiwimac
Replies
And for those interested, here's the panel
Malcolm
Edited 1/20/2005 3:45 pm ET by kiwimac
Plenty of people do it. The danger is getting complacent and not noticing if the cut has gotten a little ragged from a dull blade or an out of tune saw.
If the panels snug up completely down the glue line to your satisfaction then no big deal. Go for it. If the grain is matched appropriately, the glue line should be literally invisible. Are yours?
Edited 1/20/2005 4:43 pm ET by cstan
Yes, I'll glue straight from the saw. I have a Parks Model # 95 planer/jointer. It is just a pain to configure into a jointer.
I always do a dry run with the boards and clamps just to make sure everything comes together, from the saw.
> the glue line should be literally invisible. Are yours? <
Yes, but I wouldn't have believed they could be until I tried!
I've always scoffed at the guys who said they glued straight from the saw ... 'show me the glue line, I'll bet it shows' was what I was thinking.
But no. Straight from the saw and spot on. Perfectly square, perfectly straight, clean as whistle!
But, it takes a very good saw, well set up, and most important - a good, sharp, clean blade.
MalcolmNew Zealand | New Thinking
Malcolm
I put a Freud Glue Line Rip blade on my 300 and it is truly a Glue Line Rip. The difference between what you and I do is that I clamp the board to be ripped to the slider. I try not to use the rip fence, not because I don't think it is good, its simply that clamping stock to the slider is superior.
BTW: Freud reps I have talked to claim to be coming out with a 12" Glue Line Rip in the near future.
_________________________________
Michael in San Jose
"In all affairs it's a healthy thing now and then to hang a question mark on the things you have long taken for granted." Bertrand Russell
I wish you handn't told me that Michael! I tried to buy a glueline blade a while ago and just couldn't - as I recall because there isn't one available with a 30mm bore!
The finish I get from the blade Freud did send me (as a one-off favour) is very good tho.
MalcolmNew Zealand | New Thinking
Malcolm
Freud is an Italian manufacturer. I would think they must bore the Euro blades for 30mm. See if your distributor can go direct to the manufacturer._________________________________
Michael in San Jose
"In all affairs it's a healthy thing now and then to hang a question mark on the things you have long taken for granted." Bertrand Russell
I dealt direct with Freud in the US. I'll go back and try again.New Zealand | New Thinking
Most, if not all of the blade manufacturers, can supply any blade with any size bore, but the blade/ bore combination you want may not always be in the catalog. Local supplier may not be interested in dealing with a special order and thus claim it isn't available, but it is.
Also, many large sharpening shops that serve commercial and industrial customers can rebore a blade for a small charge. I know that Forrest can supply any of their blades with any bore and will rebore blades for their customers. I believe that they will rebore a blade even if it they didn't make it.
John W.
Malcom,In the US we can rebore them to 30mm. I am not sure if the LM74 is available everywhere or just in North America. I'll check the European Freud Catalog tomorrow.Charles M
Freud America, Inc.
Thanks! Much appreciated. I do love the blade you guys sold me. So much that I keep it in a plastic slip folder and only bolt it on for finish cuts and fine joinery. I'm a recreational woodworker (at the moment, did once, for almost 7 years, make a living as a studio woodworker) but build to high standards using expensive materials, and can justify the relatively high cost!
MalcolmNew Zealand | New Thinking
Malcom,We don't offer the LM74 in 30mm as a standard blade but we can rebore one for you. Contact Bill Burkhead in our Industrial Division ([email protected]) and I think he can take care of it for you.Charles M
Freud America, Inc.
Have done
Many thanks Charles - great to have you participating, and to know that Freud is watching community opinion.
It was Bill who sorted me out last time. This is a level of service that I really appreciate!
MalcolmNew Zealand | New Thinking
I've had experience similar to MichaelP. I have a Freud Glue Line Rip blade that I have used for a few months. I have ripped stock using the rip fence on my Jet table saw and go straight to glue-up. Of course, I check it first with light clamp pressure to be sure the joint is good. Most of the time, I make a quick clean-up pass on the jointer just because that's the 'right' way, but the jionts I've done straight from the saw are just fine.
Bill Arnold - Custom Woodcrafting Click Here if you're interested in a good,inexpensive website host.
Food for Thought: The Ark was built by amateurs; the Titanic by professionals.
Why not do it , I have always done it . You can cut a straight edge on rough edged stock with a straight board on the table saw also.
I use my planer mostly to get stock flat.
Ron
Yes, I also edge-glue boards directly from the saw. Also, I don't think you really need a super fancy blade to do so. A reasonably sharp combination blade works fine (mine is a 10 year-old Delta). Sometimes, I'll take a couple of very light passes with the saw (1/32") on the mating boards to make sure the joint is perfect. Other times, I don't even need to do that.
Chip
> don't think you really need a super fancy blade to do so. A reasonably sharp combination blade works fine <
Good point. It may be that I could have glued up straight from the saw before I got my Freud blade, but it wasn't until I saw the quality of the cut from the Freud that I thought to try!
Another point - how well this works will probably depend on the scale of the glue up. Eight foot by 8 by 2 inch boards may be more of a struggle, especially if not perfectly flat! And with your average home workshop.
MNew Zealand | New Thinking
Malcolm
Just before Christmas we glued up 6x.8m (20'x 32"x2") counter top in River Red Gum but most are table or buffet sized tops or cabinet door panels.
cstan
I agree, using dull tools is false economy as well as a royal pain in the butt. I don't think I would have even contemplated changing from using the jointer if the saw wasn't absolutely accurate.
And no, unless the grain direction or colour* gives it away glue lines are (hopefully, usually, in most cases:-) not detectable & isn't that what its all about.
*Our timber merchant is 200 miles away therefore their selection has to be relied on. Many of the indigeneous timbers we use can vary quite widely in colour & sometimes we have no choice unless enormous excesses are ordered.
Don
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled