I am a newby and have attempted my first project. I am very happy with the result except for one mortice and tenon joint that is not quite a tight fit. Could anyone advise on what type of glue to use that has good gap filling qualities.
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Replies
I'm not exactly what you would call a professional woodworker but I'm quite sure most people would probably use a thin slice of hardwood (preferably beech ) to slide into to the gap ,then a water-suluble glue would expand and tighten the joint.It's my personal experience that the glue's out there just can't do the job themselves. Good -luck
Bret
Your 'joint that is not quite a tight fit' is a pretty subjective description which may be just that to one which will require shimming (see previous reply above). If you think that it won't require shimming then try a 2 part epoxy such as Wests.
Good luck on this & your future projects.
Don
Knobby has the right idea, however you may want to use a shim of the same wood as the project, and if it's in a high visibility area, cut the shim with the same orientation (long grain or cross grain) that will make it blend in to the joint.
Depending on the finish, it may be possible to fill a hairline joint crack with fine sanding dust of the projects wood and finish. Use fine sandpaper to work the sawdust and finish into the crack.
Bret,
Without knowing the specifics that make you unhappy with the fit of your mortise & tenon joints, I can only surmise: Is your mortise rough and uneven, with unsightly gaps? Perhaps, your mortises are nice, clean and square, but your tenons are a bit under-sized?
You can use a large, razor-sharp chisel to square-up the sides of an irregularly-shaped mortise. Take a few passes from a scrap of the same species (and same grain color & orientation if the repair will be visible) with a plane, and glue a shaving to the face(s) of the tenon to build it out. After the glue has cured, trim the shavings flush with the surface. If the gap is more than one shaving thick, you may want to substitute a thin, resawn, piece of the appropriate thickness.
I use hide glue for these kinds repairs because it is less conspicuous than "modern" glues, is water-soluable, and reversible.
If your tenons have shoulders to conceal the patch, you'll be making a repair that's strictly mechanical. If not, take a few deep breaths and give yourself enough time to do the job as well as you can.
If you use a sanded-in finish with oil (or oil, varnish and thinner), the sanding slurry will help camouflage the repair.
Good luck,
Paul
Thanks to all for your very helpfull responses. Its certainly a pleasure to know there is so much willing help available.
Regards
Bret
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