Replies

1. 
   philip_r | Jun 23, 2008 10:12pm | #1

   Here is some useful advice

   1. Start the DT and then apply glue
   2. Use a slow-set glue
   3. Refrigerate yellow glue, it slows it's set time - but don't freeze it 
   4. Speed my friend... speed
   5. Lastly, big hammer and clamps
1. 
   jphelps7 | Jun 23, 2008 10:39pm | #3

   Thanks T.  I am grateful for your help.

   Jphelps7

    

2. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Jun 23, 2008 10:15pm | #2

   Apply your glue to the glue faces on the tails.   When you push the pieces together, the squeeze -out will be on the outside of the box, where it is easy to clean off. 

   You don't have to assemble all four pieces simultaneously.  I generally insert the front and back to one of the sides, then apply glue to the other side and add it to the other three.  Then  I put the four pieces down on a flat surface, measure the diagonals, and adjust it to square. 

1. 
   jphelps7 | Jun 23, 2008 10:40pm | #4

   Thanks, Jamie, for your helpful comments. 

   Jphelps7

    

2. 
   Cincinnati | Jun 24, 2008 04:46pm | #14

   Anybody pre-taping the joints with blue painters tape to keep squeeze-out on the wood to a min? I first saw this on WoodWorks. I like the idea, but have not tried it yet.Greg

   <!---->•••••••

   Exo 35:30-35<!---->

3. 
   jphelps7 | Jun 24, 2008 11:59pm | #15

   Jamie, I used your suggested method this morning ....... with good success.

   Here's a big thank you from a grateful novice.

   Jphelps7

    

1. 
   dkellernc | Jun 25, 2008 02:01am | #17

   Didn't see anyone mention this, but a slightly different take on the Lee Valley article is to use dovetails, but assemble the drawer without glue.  Then apply a thin cyanoacrylate (i.e., "superglue") to the lines between the pins and the tails.  The low viscosity of the CA glue will entirely fill the joint through capillary action, and so long as it's not asked to fill substantial gaps, CA glue is just as strong as most other types, including acetate (yellow) glue.

3. 
   hammer1 | Jun 23, 2008 11:22pm | #5

   Do a dry fit first, so all your clamps are sized and ready to go. Use a slow setting glue, I like liquid hide glue or Titebond Extend. Get a 1/2" natural bristle paint brush and cut the bristles down to about 3/4" long. This gives you one of the best applicators, way better than an acid brush. Put some glue in a margarine container to dip into. Go fast without being sloppy or over applying. Once one set is glued, push them together so there isn't time for swelling. Move as quickly as possible to the next. If you aren't fast enough, you can do two corners and use 90° glue up blocks to keep things square. You can see a couple of shop made corner blocks in this picture of a cabinet glue up. You should get about 15 minutes open time with slow glue.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

   
1. 
   jphelps7 | Jun 23, 2008 11:44pm | #6

   Thanks, Hammer.  Good info for a novice like myself.

   Jphelps7

    

1. 
   BG | Jun 24, 2008 03:33am | #8

   jphelps,Just a couple of ideas to throw into the hopper. Like others have mentioned, preassemble and test for square and get your clamps all set. Then I take my carpenter square and nail two cleats perpendicular to each other on the workbench. I then back off the four sides till almost apart, pour glue into a plastic lid and apply with an acid brush. Remember, the long grain to long grain is the holding power..end grain, not so much. Everything gets pushed together and the box is clamped to the cleats...and tested for square.

1. 
   jphelps7 | Jun 24, 2008 04:22am | #9

   Thanks for the tips, B G.  Sure good to have willing experienced woodworkers willing to share.

   jphelps7

4. 
   padauker | Jun 24, 2008 02:51am | #7

   I've had good luck using a small spatula (about 1/2" wide, a few inches long) to apply the glue. I use a small open container of glue and load a lot onto the spatula. This works better for me than trying to use a brush.

1. 
   jphelps7 | Jun 24, 2008 04:23am | #10

   Would never have thought about the small spatula.  Thanks for the tip.

    

   jphelps7

5. 
   flairwoodworks | Jun 24, 2008 07:04am | #11

   Here's a different approach:  http://www.leevalley.com/home/Articles.aspx?c=1&action=32

   Click on ADHESIVES, then DOVETAILS VS BOX JOINTS.

   Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com

    - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

6. 
   BrianDerr | Jun 24, 2008 09:36am | #12

   NK?

   Brian

1. 
   Jfrostjr | Jun 24, 2008 03:33pm | #13

   No one mentioned:Take the phone off the hook.Lock the shop door.Frosty"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922

2. 
   jphelps7 | Jun 25, 2008 05:46am | #19

   Brian, Mr. Mark Edmundson did an article in July/August 2001 Fine Woodworking entitled "A Better Way to Build Drawers."  This article gives detailed drawings and instructions on building these the NK type drawers. 

   In the early 1900's these drawers were developed by a Swedish manufacturer, Nordiska Kompaniet, to solve the problem of excessive wear on the drawer runners and eliminate drawer side friction, binding, etc. 

   I sure do like these silky smooth running, non-binding drawers.

   Jphelps7

    

    

7. 
   PRAppd212Tb | Jun 25, 2008 01:38am | #16

   Flux brush, a kiss of hot hide glue on the pins, and no clamps. If the dovetails fit, clamping the drawer just introduces the possibility that the clamps will pull it out of square. Glue it up, square it up with a hand shimmy if necessary and leave it alone for a few hours.

1. 
   jphelps7 | Jun 25, 2008 05:26am | #18

   Sure makes sense to me. 

   Thanks PRA,

   jphelps7