Replies

1. 
   IdahoDon | Jul 11, 2013 12:36am | #1

   If I remember right the set of the teeth on that blade is rather minimal (the teeth don't extend a lot wider than the disk of the blade), but a lot of your problem is probably the wood itself.  Ripping rough oak will often show the kerf wants to grow as the cut progresses or it closes up and trys to pinch the blade.  Some batches of wood are better than others.

   For a 110v saw rough cutting oak I like the frued diablo 24 tooth because it's cheap and the thin blade cuts fairly well.  I like the safety teeth on a 24 tooth blade so if the blade pinches kickback will be less exciting than a blade with big agressive monster teeth.  Prior to switching to the safety teeth of the 24 tooth Frued diablo I had a couple of rather dramatic kickbacks with blades that have the big monster teeth, one of which broke a rib of mine.  Since I use a tablesaw almost every day the switch is just risk management.

   Then I'll switch to a Forest 40 tooth blade for final cuts and glue rips since it's a very smooth cutting blade.

1. 
   joshgressel | Jul 11, 2013 07:59am | #2

   Thanks, but...

   Prior to switching out the blade I tried cutting other stock.  It couldn't even handle 1/2" plywood, and when I switched out the blade it was very hot.

   I'm using a stock 24 tooth blade that came with the saw now and there's no problem.

2. 
   Troy | Jul 11, 2013 02:18pm | #3

   Not sure what saw you have but on my old jet contractors saw I have used both a Freud L87 rip blade (not thin kerf) which works fine for 4/4 stock and an cheepo oldham 24 tooth general purpose thin kerf contractors blade and it works fine for 98/4 stock.  The biggest problem I have had in ripping wood is when the kerf closes up after the cut and pinches the blade.  If you use a spliter that can help with the problem.  Very strange that your having a problem with 1/2 plywood.