Replies

1. 
   quatersawn | Dec 12, 2002 03:08am | #1

   I have used Gorilla glue at times as well. The only problems I have had are when end grain is involved. It seems to expand into the end so much so that it looses it's ability to hold tight. It seems to become brittle. Other than that, it seems fine.

2. 
   JMF688 | Dec 12, 2002 03:30am | #2

   When strength is important or on special pieces I only use T88 structural epoxy. 

1. 
   silver77 | Dec 12, 2002 07:43am | #9

   Mike ,what's T88 structral epoxy and where do you buy it from?

   ALL:one of my favorites for a user friendly waterproof glue is plastic resin(marine glue) ,a brown powder you mix with water.It has an open time of 2 or 3 hours which is handy for a complex glue-up. 

   BTW, Titebond II is only a water resistant glue.

   silver

1. 
   DennisS | Dec 12, 2002 08:14am | #10

   I've been using the plastic resin with great success as well, Silver. Even dense woods like Chechen and Canary. This is for segmented turning projects. I've had pieces come off the lathe at over 1000RPM. spin across the floor and whack into a wall or another machine and not come apart.

   Yes, I wear face protection (grin)

   ...........

   Dennis in Bellevue WA

   [email protected]

1. 
   booch | Dec 13, 2002 03:40pm | #13

   I hear Chechen is a rebellious wood <G>

   BTW What is that? You slipped 2 new woods past me. Is Canary ...yellow?

1. 
   Splintie | Dec 14, 2002 09:22am | #14

   I use poly glue almost exclusively on any parallllllelllll joints. I make some non-parallel edge-to-edge glue-ups where it doesn't grab as well as TBII, however. I had a lot of failure one time in a batch of 40 cutting boards, but i traced it solely to rushing the clamp time. Even after it looks cured on the outside, it isn't. Leave it a full 24 hours to be sure.

   I got the perfect solution for storing open bottles from this board a couple years ago, and that is to put them in the fridge or freezer, for longterm. Squueze as much air out as possible first. I take it out and stick it in a pan of warm water for a few minutes to get it runny again. It doesn't seem to be adversely affected by this. Good way to store paintbrushes, too, but you gotta make sure they are sealed tight. I once had to toss a fridgeful of produce that reeked of oil-base primer...it circulated through the freezer and into the fridge part.

   I have no trouble with it on chechen or canary, but i only use epoxy on the real nasties like rosewoods, where i like the way the epoxy glueline disappears better in those woods and works better chemically. On woods like teak, the poly glue makes a vastly less visible glue line than epoxy.  

   (Weekend warrior, eh? Think i'll head down to get me full set of them 12-point sockets at the dollar store...wanna come?) 

2. 
   IanDG | Dec 14, 2002 10:03am | #15

   Dennis,"I've had pieces come off the lathe at over 1000RPM. spin across the floor and whack into a wall or another machine"Er, there is, actually, a safer way of distressing pieces than this, with far more consistent results.

3. 
   floman47 | Dec 12, 2002 03:31am | #3

   Try E-mailing Sam. 

   let us know

   http://www.sammaloof.com/index1.htm

   Jeff in so cal

   72 f---46%

4. 
   wklemp | Dec 12, 2002 04:08am | #4

   I have used Gorilla glue on several projects with great results, but had one miserable failure on a piece of outdoor furniture.  The wood was iron wood and within about six months of sitting out in the Houston sun, every glue joint failed.  Any recommendations on a truly weather-proof glue for high-density woods?

1. 
   johnhardy | Dec 12, 2002 04:49am | #5

   I would think some sort of epoxy would be best for what you're looking for.

   John

2. 
   JAMES70114 | Dec 12, 2002 05:33am | #7

   What exactly were you using the ironwood for? Stuff is 'spensive!

   I live in Louisiana(N'awlins actually) during the summertime with all of the humidity I rely heavily on polyurethane glues of all brand names when doing outside projects, mostly that involve pressure treated lumber. Due to the formsan termite problems here, I mostly, if not exclusively, use pressure treated lumber.

   The polyurethane glues(of which Gorilla glue is one brand) are the best when dealing with very soggy lumber where a strong bond is needed and where the project or product you are building is likeley to get soaked from time to time.

   For strength, especially when dealing with dense hardwoods, I usually recommend using two part epoxy type glues like resorcinol glue.

   Try asking where you purchase wood from, although don't even bother at the big boxes like Home Depot or Lowes. Most of the people there don't know much

   scares me, and I'm fearless

3. 
   stewartm74 | Dec 12, 2002 07:34am | #8

   west systems epoxys boat builders swear by it.

5. 
   noone51 | Dec 12, 2002 05:26am | #6

   Gorilla glue is a ready made (out of the bottle substitute) glue that at best mimicks the dry mix glues that are truly waterproof, I wish I knew the names of them all but I don't so please don't hammer me for that.

   Gorilla glue only penetrates the wood if the wood is absorbent and contains moisture. Otherwise it just sits on top and foams up a lot. Once you open a bottle, use it all, the shelf life is very short.

   Personnally, I'll trust Tite Bond or Tite Bond II.

6. 
   strider7tk | Dec 12, 2002 11:58pm | #11

   I used Gorilla Glue to repair a cracked front piece on a futon bed. Don't know what the wood was- something dark reddish-brown, fairly dense. The joint opened up again under stress, right at the glue line.

   So I am not a fan. Gorilla Glue is expensive, also, and unless you transfer it to another container that collapses, or is smaller, you can't keep air out because the GG cap stinks.

1. 
   noone51 | Dec 13, 2002 06:53am | #12

   Yep, use it or loose it but the stuff does work if you follow the instructions. You must provide a moisture source and you must be working with a wood that absorbs moisture or the darn stuff just won't work right.

   I used to tout the stuff but now I consider it ACE/Truevalue weekender glue. (no offense folks, its just not a professional product.)

7. 
   Mikedej | Dec 14, 2002 04:46pm | #16

        I agree that clamp time is very important I've had failures after leaving the parts in clamps for only 8 hours or so.  Leave the parts in clamps for the full 24 hrs.

   MikeD