Replies

1. 
   Rich14 | Feb 28, 2005 10:55pm | #1

   Ken,

   Gorilla Glue (polyurethane glue) is very poor for filling gaps. It is an excellent glue in a properly fitted joint, but it simply foams into a soft fluff outside the tight wood mating surfaces. Use PVA (white or yellow) or epoxy for (slight) gap filling.

   Rich

   Rich

   Don't ever learn anything new. Rather than give you satisfaction that you know more than you did, it will only confirm you know less than you thought by opening horizons to things of which you had never dreamt and which you now must explore.

2. 
   jazzdogg | Feb 28, 2005 11:07pm | #2

   Ken,

   You might want to consider cleaning up your mortises with a sharp chisel and gluing some veneer to yout tenons, thickening them up until you achieve a slip fit; I'd rather have sound joinery than rely on the questionable gap-filling properties of various adhesives. If you insist on using an adhesive to glue up the joints as-is, I'd probably opt for epoxy with micro-balloons added.

   Good luck,

   -Jazzdogg-

   Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.

3. 
   mgumaer | Feb 28, 2005 11:53pm | #3

   dovetail,

   Epoxy will work. I would not use poly for the reasons mentioned above. You can add fine sawdust from the wood you're using to help the epoxy fill gaps and color match the project.
   If the gap is too big, then you might want to consider adding veneer or shims as described above.
   Theoretically, the addition of sawdust to epoxy may weaken the joint. So, if you're a circus worker and plan to have an elephant balance on your chair, you may want to rethink your approach. Epoxy will likely give a better looking result with film finishes.

   Matt

1. 
   dovetail3 | Mar 01, 2005 12:44am | #4

   Thanks to all who offerred help. question:
   Is there a particular type epoxy I should use
   or is the 5minute epoxy sold at local hardware
   stores O.K.? I'm thinking I'll go with yellow
   glue and use the epoxy afterwards in place of
   wood filler because I know eventually the filler
   will shrink and crack.
   Ken

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Mar 01, 2005 04:49am | #5

   You want two part, slow set epoxy. Your local hardware store should have it. Follow the directions.Epoxy is the only adhesive that is actually stronger when used on sloppy joints than when used on very tight joints. It is ideal for your application. In the shop I was involved with, we used epoxy on all chairs we built as it is the only adhesive that holds together when subjected to the type of stress that a chair gets.Howie.........

1. 
   dovetail3 | Mar 01, 2005 06:33am | #6

   Thanks! Sounds like a great idea
   Ken

1. 
   sedna | Mar 01, 2005 08:42am | #7

   Howies advice is very sound. In boatbuilding it is often recomended to drill out oversized holes then fill them with epoxy and tap or screw into the epoxy. It is stronger and the larger hole provides a greater bearing surface to the wood, making the whole assembly stronger. I have used several quick cure, cold cure, two tube epoxies and nothing stacks up against West Systems product. It may cost a bit more.
   Keith

2. 
   yotonyb | Mar 01, 2005 09:55am | #8

   I'm with jazz dog on shimming the tenons then cutting again for a better fit.

   With regard to epoxy, I've used PC-7 (or PC-11 for marine applications) which is a thick two-part epoxy paste, for its strength and its gap-filling properties.  And it won't drip because it has the consistency of peanut butter!  It has one drawback...it dries to a blue-gray color and requires some touch-up if your joint seeps any glue.

   tony b.

2. 
   Elcoholic | Mar 01, 2005 05:11pm | #9

   I would caution against using PVA and epoxy.  It would probably work OK, but would not be as strong.  Clean the joint and just use epoxy - West Systems is my favorite.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   The more things change ...

   We trained hard, but it seemed that every time we were beginning to form up into teams, we would be reorganized.  I was to learn later in life that we tend to meet any new situation by reorganizing; and a wonderful method it can be for creating the illusion of progress while producing confusion, inefficiency, and demoralization.

   Petronious Arbiter, 210 BC

1. 
   scooter1 | Mar 01, 2005 09:04pm | #10

   West Systems is great and stay away from sawdust--they actually make a thickening agent(a powder) for use in this exact situation.Regards,
   Boris"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934

4. 
   DickB | Mar 02, 2005 02:18am | #11

   Listen to the guys that are suggesting that you shim the part and arrive at the correct size. Of course, If the rocker is just a piece that ain't worth much, and you just want to get by quick, go with the epoxy, It might last longer than we think.

5. 
   Michmesquite | Mar 02, 2005 04:08am | #12

   Ken

   I had a similar problem with a garden table I built. I used System Three T-88 Structural Epoxy Adhesive http://www.systemthree.com/p_t_88.asp

   It has excellent gap filling properties, long open time and is easy to mix.

   BTW: I have given up using polys. Too hard to work with, messy and does not fill gaps. (Of, course I could be more careful measuring and cutting!)

   _________________________________

   Michael in San Jose

   "In all affairs it's a healthy thing now and then to hang a question mark on the things you have long taken for granted." Bertrand Russell 

6. 
   JMartinsky | Mar 02, 2005 05:25am | #13

   As on option, although crude, you could use PL Premium adhesive. The construction type in a caulking tube. It is strong as all get up, has good gap filling qualities and doesn't require mixing. I would sprits the pieces to be glued with water and then apply. It is a polyurethane, so moisture is a must. '

   John