I am a stickler for precision and though I’ve tuned my Contractor saw to do a respectable job, I’ve decided to move into a Cabinet Saw.
I’ve been surfing the forum for comments and man, do you like a Ford or a Chevy. Everyone has an opinion.
I’m considering a 3 HP, 10″, left tilt. I’m looking at Steel City and Grizzly and the only difference I can find is years of experience.
Your opinions, thoughts and/or experiences with these saws would be appreciated.
Thanks
Ron
Replies
I have the Grizzly 1023slx and have had it for some time now. Love it. It was dead on and I've moved it across the country (east coast to midwest). It is still dead on and other than blowing out the dust with compressed air on the trunions, no issues or adjustments what so ever. if you do a search on the 1023slx, you will see my review when I bought it. Steel city is the new kid on the block, but heard good things about them too. Good luck and enjoy the new toy.
BTW, if I had it to do over, I'd do the exact same thing with the same budget. If I had 2k, I'd spring for the new griz with riving knife.
If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it.
And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
I'm sure both machines would be very good. I have a PM 66 and enjoy it. That said, I have never had a kickback, nor any tool accident, really, but if I were to get a new saw, I would surely consider the safety factors of a riving knife and/or a Sawstop even if I had to wait for a few more paychecks and eat a little less high on the hog to get it.
When you're factoring in "years of experience" remember that Steel City was founded by disaffected Delta and Jet execs who didn't like the way they were doing business.
I've had a Shop Fox cabinet saw ( same as the Griz 1023SL) for about a year now. It has really performed well. Incredible upgrade from a contractor saw. I would certainly buy it again. Fit and finish is totally acceptable.
One thing to consider is whether you will want a sliding table in the future. If so, you might want to think about right tilt. Grizzly's sliding table, for instance, will only fit on their right tilt saws. Mine is left tilt and I use a sled. It works great for my limited purposes. If I made a lot of cabinets though, I might want a sliding table.
I also bought a Shark Guard for mine. If you haven't seen one, it's an upgrade splitter/blade guard with dust collection. It removes or installs from that particular saw in 1-2 seconds. Acts very much like the riving knife on my old saw.
Davidb
I'll second what Forest Girl said... If you want to see "years of experience that ended up on end product, I wouldn't brush aside the fact that Steel City is a relatively new company. Take an actual look at the Steel City on the inside and pay special attention to the arbors and the way they mount. Then move the fence to the blade and un-lock it and give it a push down the rail away from the blade.... and be d*mn sure you run ahead of it in advance to keep it from sliding off the end of the rail.
The Griz is a good saw also IMO as I have been over it at IWF when the SC's were first introduced as I was comparing for a TS purchase at that time. The problem is you can't see one up close unless you live near one of the 3 show-rooms and distribution centers. Sometimes it's best to actually look the gift horse's in the mouth to see just which one has the best teeth as I see it.
Sarge...
Consider the new Grizzly 12"
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ToolGuide/ToolGuideArticle.aspx?id=27067
http://www.grizzly.com/products/G0605X
Come January I am getting one.
Edited 11/20/2007 11:20 am by WillGeorge
It's good there are many table saw manufactures. Competition produces the best product for the least cost. Sitting in my shop is a Delta Unisaw purchased last year to replace the best $45 I ever spent on a table saw. Purchased an older Rockwell Homecraft 8" cast iron top table saw at auction one weekend some years back. That old saw has seen a few more projects but has limitations. The Unisaw has done more for me in the last year as my skills and projects have become better and bigger. Convinced it's the fence that makes the table saw. You need a fence system that will hold up to use year in and year out. Enjoy the comparing phase of your shopping. Out of confusion comes direction
Erich
Ron
Whatever saw you decide on, make sure you are prepared, when you are putting it together the first time, to really give it a solid tune up. I replaced a Unisaw 7 years ago with a 66, and had to spend a very late evening getting the wing extensions referenced flat with the main table, and getting the fence square, the tilt stops at 45 and 90 set properly, etc.....
You may get lucky, but verifying all specs and setting the saw up properly the first time will save you loads of grief down the road. I put about 12 hours into my 66, and it has been perfect ever since.
BTW, 3 hp is plenty of motor for just about anything you'll need it for. I consistently rip and cross 12/4 and 8/4 stock with my 3 hp 66, and the motor never even bats an eyelash.
Jeff
Thank you all for some valuable feedback. All indications would be that going with the Gizz 1023 would not be a bad choice.
I'm a mechanical engineer and I designed and built a high performance rip fence, fashioned after the Beis....... using extruded aluminum, for my 9"contractor saw. It stays dead square with my blade. I undercut my trunnion mounting bolts so I could have more movement to align my saw and it's within 0.004" square. I look forward now to moving into a saw with some meat and a commercial fence.
Thanks again.
Sawstop
OK men, I want a good clean fight here, there will be no hitting below the belt, no head-butting and no biting. Now go to your corners and when the bell rings come out fighting.
DING! DING!
May I suggest that if anyone wants to comment (or read) about the Saw stop they look at one of the two other threads that are currently going or just ended, about this?
Doug
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled