I’ve noticed that most, if not all, totes feature grain that runs parallel to the sole of the plane which is perpendicular to the length of the tote. For maximum strength, should the grain not run with the length (height) of the handle? Or is it a moot point because the bolt that runs through the tote provides all the strength necessary, and the grain direction is strictly aesthetic?
I have noted that stanley planes have a long, narrow “toe” at the bottom front of the tote through which a small bolt is driven to prevent the tote from spinning, and running the grain vertically would create a short-grained situation along this piece, so probably not a good idea. The Veritas planes do not have this “toe”, yet the grain still runs horizontally.
Replies
Chris,
Check out these templates from Lee Valley RE grain direction:
http://www.leevalley.com/shopping/TechInfo.aspx?p=63263
No explanation
Jerry,
Unless I missed something, the templates only have an arrow pointing horizontal on the Veritas totes and at 21 degrees from horizontal on the Stanleys. The instructions just say to mind the grain direction.
Hi Chris
You can run the grain either way with a tote .... however there is a trade-off - always a trade off!
If the grain runs horizontal, the danger is that the tote will shear acrossthe width. We see this often. However, with the grain in that direction, one can add long horns at the top (for a grip) and a screwed base to resist twist.
If the grain runs vertically, which is the ideal direction, we end up with a strong tote, but one with short grain in a base extension and horns. So on those totes that do use vertiocal grain, you will find that the extensions are mere stumps.
The Veritas totes gain extra strength and resist twist by using twin central bolts, rather than the single bolt as used by Stanley and LN.
Regards from Perth
Derek
What I needed to hear
Derek,
Thanks for posting. That was exactly what I wanted to hear. I've made two totes so far, one with vertical grain (Veritas bench plane - single through bolt) and one with horizontal grain (Stanley #6). Anything wrong with 45 degree grain, so that both the handle and horns are moderately strong?
grain direction
I've always wondered why makers of fine planes don't make totes out of two or three pieces, dovetailed together prior to final shaping, so the grain strength is properly oriented for each section. Ain't they gots no prides in werkmanships? ;-)
Inspiration strikes
Ralph,
How about a laminated tote, with the grain following the shape of every part of the tote? I'd bet you could make a pretty cool-looking (hollow?) knob to go with that.
I need to get a grip
Can I get a thumb rest and finger notches to go with that, too? I'll send you a clay cast of my grip. ;-)
Expansion/contraction
Ralph,
When you make the clay mold, remember to account for the expansion of the clay coming into the damp environment of Vancouver and the contraction of the wood entering the dry of New Mexico, otherwise your #5 tote might better fit a #1. At least it would still be right-side up.
EDIT: Typo
Tote Fabrication
One thought leads to another... How about first fabricating the entire tote with either vertical or 45 grain. Then - at the top horn, cut a horizontal 'keyway' for a spline - like you sometimes see on mitered boxes. Insert the spline with grain parallel to the sole.
Do the same on the bottom front screw projection. Or alternately on the bottom, hollow it out underneath so another reinforcing spline - with the same parallel to sole grain direction - is inset with epoxy. This way its totally invisible when attached.
Taking this another way - with an existing tote with horizontal grain, run a vertical slot both on the front of the tote, and a second along the back of the tote. This time, insert splines with vertical grain.
In all cases - pick a nice dark but strong tight grained contrasting wood for the splines.
Flush the splines to the tote completely smooth. Refinish tote.
Chris,
I was in a hurry this morning when I posted that link to LV. I could have sworn that a grain direction was suggested on the sheet - well, sorry about that! Anyway, to solve all problems, how about a Corian tote....<gr>
Best!
-Jerry
...buy why?
Jerry,
The linked instruction sheets do indicate grain direction, but give no reason as to why.
grain directors
You can tell who they are by their folding chairs with canvas backs and seats. ;-)
The grain direction indicated is just a compromise that allows reasonable strength of the shaped piece in both directions. Their underlying assumption, I'm sure, is that a cabinetmaker's plane isn't going to be subjected to extreme stresses. Old Stanleys used by carpenters, however, often have the "horn" broken off.
Corian Tote
"how about a Corian tote....<gr>"
Too late. Cosman has probably tried to patent it..:>)
How about a bit of very old technology ! Ship builders used to use naturally bent limbs to create framing "knees" where strength was critical.
Or look to the Cane makers trick of using a trunk and limb to get a nice sharp bend.
Break-proof totes
Back in the1940's Stanley made the ultimate break-proof tote for their #3 & #4 planes... Cast Aluminum with a slight checkering on the sides. In the sides of the handle was the criptic notation 'BOE - NYC. No it is not the name of the designer, it stands for Board of Education - New York City. These planes were used in the Manual Arts /, Industrial Arts / Shop (pick your own name) classrooms. They were virtually break-proof.
SawdustSteve Long Island, NY (E of NYC)
naturally bent limbs to ..... Thanks.. I was going to post something on that order.... Not for a tote, but I have made several handles for a friend that made hand forged Axe heads. He would give me tree limbs of ash and hickory that he could not use. He made his handles from 'green' wood. I would get what he considered too dry for his needs.
I would make walking sticks and (sort of custom fitted) canes for a local retirement home. They were almost impossible to break. I even tried to make a recurve archery bow using bent tree limbs. Looked nice but never worked well. Every time I tried, one limb or the other would cause excessive string follow.
I would think a bent tree limb would make a great Tote. And.. another thought... I may try some (Wenge) Panga-Panga that I have ripped that had curved grain. While ripping it took a curved 'set' shorthy after ripping it. Look OK after ripping but the next day it sure was bent and followed the curved grain. I have several and once they change after ripping they seem to stay put..
My Panga-panga is REALLY tough wood. I can work with it buit if I get a sliver from it, it will fester really bad if I do not immediately remove it. The smallest sliver, I must remove almost immediately.
One/two things that I do not like about my panga-Panga:
With a sharp blade every edge cut is like a razor! I found out the 'hard' way! When making my canopy beds, I had to put a radius on all the edges. The raw edge was too dangerous for adluts, much less little children.
And it will not take any stain! Even soaking it in stain does not help. It will, however, take a very nice polish using a fine grit and wax.
I would think you could also use Jatoba with a curved grain. It is almost as tough as Wenge. Maybe tougher?
I have laminated both Wenge and Jatoba using Tightbond III (Sure wish that glue had a bit more open time!) I lightly sand the glue surfaces with 200 grit and then wipe with Acetone using a fresh clothsurface until I see no color from the wood. After the Acetone flashes off I apply a thin coat of glue on both surfaces and clamp 'lightly'.. Whatever that is? Maybe I just clamp without putting a wrengh on the clamp handles.
I have never had a glue failure on any lamination. In fact I have never been able to break apart two hunks of Wenge or Jatoba... OK, I never used a sledg hammer...
Chris.. My old Stanley/Bailey has horizontal grain and this plane has been used and abused.. ALOT...
The tote will wiggle a tiny bit left to right with the screw tightened. I have never found a reason to fix this. As to the tote, it has more than a few dings on it (possibly dropped a few times?) but nothing is broken. I am sure that the tote is original.
Has anyone ever made or had a tote with grain running vertically? Has it ever broken? I’ve just made one for an old record 5 1/2 like this actually by accident but it seems fine and there’s the most strength in the area that will see the most force. I’m hoping the thin sections at the top and bottom won’t break across the grain - time will tell.
And the horn on top will snap off at some point.
I'm betting it will crack at the bolt hole in front.
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