I would appreciate any tips on my filler dilemma. I am using Behlen’s water-based grain filler on a mahogany table. It smoothes on wonderfully, but dries so quickly, that it makes it a nightmare to remove the excess in time. The result is that I have to sand off the leftover filler.
I am going to try applying a thinned seal coat of shellac before applying the filler next time, and I understand, after reading Bob Flexner’s finishing book, that adding some glycol ether to the filler will retard it’s drying time. Has anyone tried this, and do you know where I might easily purchase glycol ether? The alternative, I suppose, would simply be to use an oil-based filler. Thanks for any help.
Edited 6/2/2004 11:50 am ET by TOMBROWN10
Replies
I only use the solvent based filler for the reasons you stated. I used the water based filler once, gave the stuff away after first try at it.
mike
I have had pretty good luck spraying (windex bottle style) the wood with water before applying the filler, basically thining it as it is used so that very little is left on the surface - just in the pores. Then only modest sanding is required.
Be careful to use the right color filler to start. The filler doesn't accept dye (maybe stain, but definitely not dye).
________________________
Charlie Plesums Austin, Texas
http://www.plesums.com/wood
When using water based fillers you need to work small areas and rather quickly. Try to remove the excess before it hazes. A dull cabinet scraper helps on flat surfaces but you will have to do some light sanding. Re-wetting the filler can extend working time but if you wait too long it will ball up. Water based fillers, unlike many solvent fillers, do take stains and dyes as long as they are not water based. This is a good site for info:
http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/fillers.shtml
Tom,
You didn't mention what you are planning to use as a top coat.
It's definitely a good idea to use a sanding sealer or "spit coat" of shellac before applying pore filler. And, as mentioned by another poster, work in small areas.
If you're sticking with water-based products, Enduro (Compliant Spray Systems) makes a very nice WB grain filler that has a relatively looong open/working time.
The best oil-based pore-filler I've used is Star Products (Star/Liberon); it doesn't leave the pores looking off-white or grey (this is why I won't use Bartleys' pore filler), and it's easy to apply and remove.
Good luck,
-Jazzdogg-
Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.
Edited 6/4/2004 9:27 pm ET by jazzdogg
I apologize for not responding sooner to those who have kindly submitted advice, but we have had yet another health crisis in the family here.
I had planned to follow up the grain filling process by staining with aniline dye, followed by either shellac top coat, or perhaps giving Behlen's rock hard table top finish a whirl, as I have not tried that product yet. I am making a brandy stand, and this first one will be my experimantal piece...yikes. Sometimes I feel as if ALL my projects are experimental. I should know a lot by the time I am finished, as my finishing ignorance seems to have no bounds...haha.
I must admit that I originally intended to use the "thinned shellac sealer coat" approach before filling, but was concerned that I would have trouble getting any of the dye to get through to the wood without lots of sanding first. I certainly got my hat handed to me on the sanding worries, after applying the water-based filler to a large area and unsuccessfully wiping it off in time. Oh well, live and learn, as they say. Luckily, I started the whole process only on the back of the table top, and have now sanded off the excess filler, and I am now ready to do it the right way on the top side. I'll report back with the latest disaster when it happens. Thanks again all, for the help.
Edited 6/6/2004 1:31 am ET by TOMBROWN10
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