Replies

1. 
   david_sorg | Dec 29, 2000 09:35pm | #1

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   It's my opinion that you won't get enough useful advice in a paragraph or two. I'd suggest a trip to the library for a book (try Flexner's Understanding Wood Finishing) or a tape (try mine!) that discusses the subject fully. Well worth your time when dealing with beautiful wood.

1. 
   Ron_Brese | Jan 01, 2001 03:22am | #2

   *b From the Workshop of Ron BreseKevin, When working with open grained woods I typically sand to 220 grit and then fill with famowood waterbased filler reduced with water to a cream like consistency. I also tint the material with waterbased craft paints to obtain the darker color that stain usually leaves in this type of grain structure. In order to work it into the grain I apply it with coarse grain rags made from worn out towels. Allow it to dry and then sand the excess off with 220 grit sandpaper. After this process you can dye, stain and apply any type finish you desire. This filler does have the ability to absorb color from stain, but in most cases make sure you get the color you want when you do the initial mixing. As an after thought, I must admit I have applied waterbased dyes over this material without any problems, but have not used waterbased top coats. If this is your intent you may want check it's compatability before committing your project to it.

1. 
   Rob_Millard | Jan 05, 2001 02:05am | #3

   *I have very little experience with white oak, but I made a reproduction card table, that had the fly apron made from it. I use lime mixed with water to color my mahogany, and it has little or no effect on red oak, so I assumed the same would be the case with white oak. I was wrong; the lime colored the white oak a nice brown similar to the fumed color, but not as dark. I almost never use oil stains, because they destroy the depth of the grain. You might try the lime on some scrap to see if you like it. Since the lime colors the wood by chemical reaction, you won’t lose any of your amazing rays. Just as you can’t tell the true color of fumed wood,until oiled, lime treated wood too must be coated with oil, to see the true results. As for grain filler, I never apply it to raw wood, I seal with a thin coat of dewaxed shellac first, and then put it on. Filling grain is a messy job, anyway you go about it, but the glass smooth finish you get makes it worth while. I like the grain filler sold by Constantine’s. I does not take forever to dry (I let it set 3 days before top coating) but does not dry so fast, that it is hard to work with.