Replies

1. 
   booch | Mar 17, 2003 05:09am | #1

   How far is it along?

   What parts do you have? The movement?

   I built one with my dad and it's working til this day. Raised panel parts and a few tricks of making a waist but other than that you need to give me and update of where you are and what you want to do.

   Jack of all trades and master of none - you got a problem with that?
1. 
   patrickk | Mar 17, 2003 02:18pm | #2

   Thanks for your reply Booch, The case is made out of cherry and this also has been sitting for over 20 yrs. Yes it is all very straight and very workable and only enough to do the kit, no mistakes. My case is your typical clock, no raised panels. The movement is a Hathaway movement that is weight powered half-hour strike, with a moon dial. How do you mount the movement int the clock case, there is nothing in the plans on how to do this. I haven't started it yet, I wanted to be a little more comfortable about how to go about it before I started. The kit is from Mason & Sullivan Co. in Osterville Ma., they must be out of business, there is nothing on the net about them that I could find.                Thanks again   Pat

1. 
   booch | Mar 17, 2003 03:29pm | #3

   GrandX clocks are a rube goldberg type contraption. There are a few areas where you need to pay attention to detail.

   First is the body of the clock needs to be dead plumb. A grandmother clock has a narrow waist (the definition of Mother) which is more attractive but the downside is the swing of the pendelum is restricted in the width. With the narrow waist and the width of the swing you have a problem in the making if the clock body is skewed out of plumb like a parallelagram. Stand what you have upright and check the body for square & plumb. The base should be equipped with leveling feet to correct for an un level floor.

   Second front to back there is a set parallel planes you have to think in.

   Working out to in, the initial plane is the face of the clock. The thin metal face is a cosmetic cover with no strength. The brass body of the movement is the next which is the rock of the assembly. it is held in place by rods of brass with tiny holes that will hold the movement to your plywood face plate. The tiny holes will eventually contain escution pins. These are tapered pins of brass that jam the movement to the plywood face plate you will make. The next is the plane of the pendelum which needs no additional support as it is supported by a thin metal plate called the hinge. It does need access to the lower cabinet. Final plane is the chime/gong area. Dependant on your clock sometimes this is a set of bells, sometimes a set of metal rods that are almost as long as the pendelum. The final plane described (chime/gong area) is a sound board that needs parallel support, sound qualities, and removability as that is the way to remove the movement when (not if) it needs lubrication and maintenance.

   Frankly, where you are is where people stop in the assembly of a clock. It is a tough step getting it right and it is fraught with re-do operations, sanding and truing of the parts.

   I'll sniff around and see if I have the plans that my father adapted. They also came from a company that went belly up. Seems it is a tough business to make a buck in.

   Start with this:

   # 1 Find or make a dead level place to assemble your clock. (Floor standing area)

   #2 Make a large flat surface that can be used to layout the carcass and check for accuracy. I have a slab of granite I picked up from the demo of a large city building. This granite came off the facade and it is my assembly surface .

   LaterJack of all trades and master of none - you got a problem with that?

2. 
   booch | Mar 17, 2003 04:45pm | #4

   Too weird here but in Douglasville PA is/was a company called Merritt's antiques. 800-345-4101. that sells/sold these movements and provided instructions(not copywrited). If they are around still you might look them up. Otherwise I've got the instructions now Hermle movement that can be copied and mailed to you if you need them. Ping me via the e-mail link if you are interested. None of that is copyrighted although some from Viking (Foley Alabama 800 321-1089) is and I do know they are out of business.Jack of all trades and master of none - you got a problem with that?

1. 
   patrickk | Mar 19, 2003 02:32am | #5

   Booch, Thanks alot for all the great info. I think I will be okay without your instructions. I try to build my projects in my head before I start them, but I went brain dead on this one. With your help I fill alot more confident to start it.                                         Thanks again Pat