Replies

1. 
   BG | Feb 05, 2003 12:45am | #1

   Mark,

   We do have some wood experts on here, I am not one of them.  In your shoes the first thing I would want to know is ' is there a kilm near my house so I can get it dried professionally.  I've read others who say that maple, if not dried poperly, can develop internal stresses that make the boards very difficult to work with.  I'm sure some of the experts will pop in soon.  Good luck

2. 
   PlaneWood | Feb 05, 2003 07:05pm | #2

   If it 's not much lumber, then you might consider a solar kiln.  Make a 2x4 frame and cover it with clear plastic.  Stack it, sticker it, and put lots of weights on the top.  4/4 aught to be ready to use by late fall.  Do a web search for "Solar Kiln".

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy
   PlaneWood

3. 
   Curtis | Feb 06, 2003 02:57am | #3

   Hi Mark

   first off, is this table for outside or inside use?

   for indoors the wood needs to be dry. appx. one year per ince if you want to air dry it.

   other wise, you need to find someway or someone to dry it for you. but that can be tricky too. make sure the person knows what they are doing,and then check out if the stuff is case hardened.

   I belive air dryed lumber has less stress  problems and yealds better colors then the kiln dryed lumber. but it takes TIME 

   I guess the next question should when do you want to get started?

   so I suggest stay away from green wood execpt for turning, you cant beat green wood for cheap[,and fun turnings.

   Good luck.   sincerly C.A.G.

4. 
   LeeGrinding1 | Feb 06, 2003 05:12pm | #4

   An article appeared Fine Woodworking Issue #151 about how to air dry lumber.

   You can order back issues through the links at the top of this page.

   Lee

   Lee Grindinger

   Furniture Carver

5. 
   Dale | Feb 06, 2003 05:59pm | #5

   I was ask to supply a sawmiller with the information you are asking........Do a search for items such as: lumber drying, air drying of lumber, solar kilns, etc on the web.  I normally use Google for the search engine..... The sawmiller was thrilled!  Made a new friend........Good luck.......Dale

6. 
   druid | Feb 06, 2003 07:09pm | #6

   Mark, Try the Forest Products Lab. in Madison Wi.  Their web site is-www.fpl.fs.fed.us.  They have many books and pamphlets on air and kiln drying wood.  Also plans for a small home style solar lumber kiln.  Best part is you've already paid for them.  TAXES.

7. 
   fdampier5 | Feb 07, 2003 12:25am | #7

   Mark,

    where are you and where is the wood?

      the reason I ask is it makes a big differance on the time it takes to dry!

     For example.. assuming you are using 1 inch thick boards, that you live in the heating states (another words is your furnace running right now?)  can you bring the wood inside?   do you have a dehumidifier?

     If so you could have the wood ready to go in about a month!

        Indoors humidity here is low,  much less than 10%!   If you stack the wood with stickers and have a dehumidifier ruunning you'll stop pulling much water out of it within a month.. then you'll need to condition it.  (pulling the moisture out of it quickly will case harden it)  simple to do,  run a steamer for a couple of days and then let it sit.. cut the little test piece out and check it.. if it still shows signs of case hardening, run the steamer some more..

    whatever you do don't let maple sit around milled very long without a definate drying plan.  It will stain badly!

8. 
   crt2cu2 | Feb 07, 2003 11:30am | #8

   Mark,

   Even here in Montana I have had the opportunity to fell, dry, and work a fair amount of maple- not the 'sugar maple' or hard maple as wished for. Rather, a lot of Bigleaf Maple and such other soft maples. First, try to be there 'off the saw' with melted wax, old paint, or similar end grain sealing capacities. First again, try to convince the sawyer to fell the tree only in late winter when the moisture and sap are down. Second, convince the sawyer to cut larger than usual lengths, widths, and thicknesses and plead with him/her to split the log down the pith. This is because attempts to dry lumber at home the first time will inevitably result in lots of degrade. And cracking seems to always start from the center of a log. Therefore, the excess material at the beginning may mean lots of waste due to cracking, checking and such but some usable stock may remain making it worth the considerable effort. Lastly, read all you can from books and consult the experts (J. Arno, B. Hoadley, FWW, etc). Finally, be not hasteful. Drying lumber 'at home' takes a looooooooooong tiiiiiiiiiime

   sawick