Silver –
You asked to see a photo of the lexan mod for the Grip Tite magnetic feather board. The attahced photo doesn’t look like the one they show in their video but if seems to function OK. Adds a measure of further protection against getting one’s hands close to the blade.
In the setup shown in the photo, I had just finished ripping several feet of 1/2″ chamfer strip for the top of some concrete wall forms I built today. First I ripped a 2×6 into 1″ wide pieces, then proceeded to rip off opposite corners of these pieces to produce 1/2 x 1/2 triangular molding pieces that get shot onto the inside of the forms to provide finished grade and chamfered outside corners for the finished wall.
The point being – Once I had all the 1x pieces ripped, I set the TS blade at 45 degrees, set up the Grip Tites and pushed one stick in after the other using one piece as a ‘push stick’ to push the previous one through the blade, etc. The last piece I did simply go to the back of the saw and pull it through, though.
I ripped off two opposite corners of six pieces without changing any part of the setup. Never had my hands closer than 8-10″ from the blade, indeed, I couldn’t get them any closer if I’d wanted to.
I’m still struggling with handling and setting these things up, though. And fer sure – keep the table and base of the Grip Tites clean. It doesn’t take much sawdust to reduce their grab significantly.
The lexan guard is on the middle unit in the photo. I don’t know how they mounted theirs, the one in the video. I just cut the lexan in a fat ‘L’ shape and fastened it under and using the two screws for the little roller thingie. It also serves as a chip/sawdust deflector as well.
Replies
Dennis
Clever. I like that. Looks like a good set-up. BTW, I played with the GP today (on vacation) and you and Jamie are correct about the saw-dust effecting it. Hopefully others that use them and haven't noticed will read that. I mostly use them on the band-saw as I have all kind of home-made devices on the TS and router table I prefer. But a good thing to know, definitely.
Have a good evening..
sarge..jt
Looks like a very safe setup although I cring to see those plastic things by the blade. Two are obviously magnetically set to the table and relying 100% on the integrity of the magnets(hence the sawdust warning)but the grip tite on the left seems to be just hovering. I'm curious how the left gt is attached and also, if the magnets could degrade over time.
appreciate your picture very much,
silver
Silver -
All three are magneted (g) to metal in one fashion of the other. The two outboard ones are against the 14ga fence plate, the other is on the saw table.
THe sawdust is left over from the cutting I had just completed. The table is normally brushed clean after every machine operation or at the least before setting up to do anything else. Was just in a hurry to get the snap and get back to work outside while the weather held.
Yes, the lexan is in effect over the blade but I never position the Grip Tites so they themselves are physically over the blade. The first rip on the 2x6 for milling the smaller pieces had to be pulled through from the back. I ran the piece in to where better than half was hanging off the back side, went 'round to pull it through. Yeah, that's a no-no but ... the Grip Tites held the board to the saw and against the fence as advertised. That is, with a clamp on the back end of the Bies fence rail.
I gotta figure something out for clamping that fence. It's the only drawback I've run into so far.
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Dennis in Bellevue WA
[email protected]
Very interesting. I'm thinking about investing in one to try.
My unisaw fence has the same problem.I figure clamping the ouboard end for special setups is the way to go. My fence is slotted on the side away from the fence so plan b is a rabbeted board that fits in the slot and is screwed to the table. I'm from the "when in doubt,screw it "school.
silver
Dennis-silver
I picked up a copy of Home something 101 Best Shop Tips on the mag rack at super-market to-nite. Glanced through as I took a coffee break in shop. There were at least two good ideas on clamping the rear of the fence for those that have the non-locking rear fence. I will bring up the mag tomorrow morning if you are interested to give you the name of it, The copy just came out. It's put out by Wood magazine.
Of course us poor folks with the $120 junk saws got the front and rear locks on our fences as standard equipment. he..he.. OK-OK, so I don't got the cast iron and 5 million HP as standard. When you're a light-weight, you got to get your jabs in when you can. If not, you'll get KO'ed in the first round when you go against a heavy-weight. Grin<>
sarge..jt
Please do share ,Sarge.I'm all ears <grin>silver.What inspired you to buy that mag?
silver
What inspired me to buy the mag. ha.. I'm an info junkie. I saw at least 25 things in there that I have never seen that variation of and would consider building. Love jigs, etc. And besides, if I can't keep coming up with improvement ideas; my lovely wife will find something else for me to do that won't necessarily be shop related. he..he..
See post to Dennis for mag info..
sarge..jt
Sarge -
I'll save you the grief of violating copyright by posting the article (grin). I'll see if I can locate the publication but ... please do relay pertinent description of the technique.
I've been investigating the geometry of the Bies to see if it would be possible to retrofit a cam operated lock actuated from the business end of the fence rail via a stout rod running through the fence to clamp on the back edge of the table. The trouble seems to be that anything clamping in that direction would pull the Tsquare away from the front guide rail. Alternately it would have to be something that hooks on the underside of the table and clamps up against the bottom.
Will be interested to see what the Wood Mag has to say about this.
Thanks for keeping me in mind, bud!
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Dennis in Bellevue WA
[email protected]
Dennis
Better Homes and Gardens 101 Best-Ever Workshop Projects by Wood Mag. Display until Dec. 3. pg 54 on feather and hold down system. Just an idea that might work. Does your fence hang over the end of table.
The mag is great and worth the $6.99. Reccomend even if you can't use the idea. BTW, the system with the cam lock and rod running through is basically the same as the Ryobi 3000. Might stop by the HD and have a look. I know everyone laughs at Ryobi, but they had some very clever ideas found on some high dollar innovative saws. Rivving knife, 3 point fence locks, sliding table, two short belt drive with motor that is mounted directly under the arbor. If they had made it more heavy duty, you would have a he-l of a saw. That's why I bought the junker for $120 and made some major modifications that gave me capabilities that go beyond any contractors saw and a few things that even the heavy-weights don't have. The new one that just came out is a little lighter than the one's Norm in Fujino and I have. Nuff said...
Hope you can use info and I think you're on the right track. Anything I can do to help, let me know. Keep us posted as you know we're interested.
sarge..jt
Ahhhh, you have watched the video. I guess you saw, then, how that little short metal fence thingie is used, right? I'm watching the video now, and he's demonstrating how some WWers have gotten short fingers on their left hand. Naahhh, I donwanna do that. He seems to have developed some very specific techniques for getting the GTs set right for various sizes of cuts and types of stock.
Interesting how he uses it as a point-fence for the bandsaw. Oh well, enough narration.
PS: Remember that thread awhile back with the discussion of whether or not pulling stock through from the back of the saw was OK? Hmmmm, he does that often when demo'ing the GTs.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Edited 11/6/2002 2:22:44 AM ET by forest_girl
Jamie -
I wonder how much he paid is neighbor to take that video!! (grin). Have you ever seen anything so low tech and unprofessional??
Yeah, I meant to let you know about the little short ht. extension fence piece. Frankly it doesn't seem very stable just clipped on with a pair of vice-grips.
Since I got the Delta fence for my band saw that can be adjusted for blade drift, I don't see the need for a point fence in re-sawing stuff. Get pretty good results so far anyway.
Haven't made the mod for the splitter pin. I wonder at the utility of it since if one changes blade angle frequently it seems it would get in the way.
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Dennis in Bellevue WA
[email protected]
Dennis
Sorry to butt in. Just caught what you said about the point fence on the BS. I been using that GP for that for several years and I haven't seen a video. Ha. I realize you're satisfied with your current set-up on the BS. Just try the GP sometime. It takes a little play to get the feel like the short TS fence I mounted over my long fence. But once you get the feel, I love the point fence.
Guess what I'm saying is, try it sometime and see if you can get the feel. It'll add an option to your bag of tricks. Even if you like the full fence better.
sarge..jt
I haven't really checked out the splitter-pin arrangement. Is the pin a PITA to take out once it's in?
With regard to the production quality of the video, no it's not great, but I think having (and watching) the video is invaluable for the end user of the GTs -- there are some safety-related instructions (when to use the roller, when to use the fin, where to locate the GTs) that are indispensable over the long haul, so I'm just glad they made the video.
We had a 30-second spot produced a couple years ago for advertising on local cable TV. Cost about $500. Can't imagine how much it would cost to get a 10- or 15-minute tape professionally produced! Not that Mesa Vista couldn't afford it -- I would image they can, but they probably don't see it as totally necessary. Few people understand the value in that kind of spending.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Edited 11/6/2002 4:04:04 PM ET by forest_girl
> ... Is the pin a PITA to take out once it's in?
Dunno, haven't done it. May not. Don't want to. (g)
My kids took better videos of their skate boarding escapades. (hehe)
But in the end, it was worth watching. And yes, it explained use of the GT's better than the guy at the show did. I hadn't thought about having the roller engaged on the outfeed side for thin rips - no-no. It was worth it for that point only.
Now I'm thinking that recessing a couple rare earth magnets in a piece of 1" MDF would be the quickest way to create a sacrificial fence for dados or those times when you just don't like how close that steel plate is getting to the saw blade.
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Dennis in Bellevue WA
[email protected]
Great idea with the magnets and MDF, which I hope you don't mind if I borrow, LOL. forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
> ....I hope you don't mind if I borrow,
My attorney will be in contact shortly (hehehe)
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Dennis in Bellevue WA
[email protected]
Hmmm...interesting.
dumb question...what is a point fence on a band saw?
earth magnets...I am seriously considering adding 1 or 3 30#earth magnets to a traditional featherboard for a low tech/low budget solution. At $150. US a pop(that's what I seem to remember from the GT garage website) the grip tites are very dear. I don't see why the earth magnets wouldn't work...What do you think?
BTW, I inserted a 3/4" round magnet into the side of my pushstick and it waits for my reach stuck to the front of my Unisaw.
My first Know Thy Table Saw class was on Wed. pm and I think it went really well. An invited guest brought a jig that will easily and for less than $75. Canadian cut a straight edge on very crooked 8' stock. If any one expresses interest, I will be happy to elaborate.
to fingers,
silver
Silver, they used to make the GTs out of wood stock, but the magnets didn't do well with the wood changes brought on by moisture cycles. Might be something to think about with your featherboard idea.
The $150 you refer to is for that whole GT Pro System, which includes a 14 gauge fenceplate, 2 GT's, 2 Rollerguides and the award-winning video we've mentioned. I assume it also includes the splitter pins and their button, and the short fence used for increasing height of the basic fence.
TS class sounds like fun.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Thank-you for that forest_girl. I tried some featherboards out of 1" plywood a few years ago and they have stood up well. I'll take your advice and insert the mags with West system epoxy into 1" ply. Should be stable...30# mags are 5 for 13. Canadian so mag ply featherboards are practically a dime a dozen US.
cheers,
silver
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