“Gripable” finish for turned handles.
(I could have posted this under the Finishing Heading but thought I would more likely get an experienced response here for turners. ) I bought a few “4 in 1” screwdriver kits from a catalog. Each kit consists of an internal sleeve and 4 screwdriver bits, to which a lathe-turned wooden handle (made by the purchaser) is added. These turned out to be good quality kits and I intend to buy several more to be made into Christmas gifts.
My question is, what kind of finish can I apply to make the handles look presentable but still be able to be gripped easily when used? The first two I produced look great, nice satin-like varnish finish, smooth wood, etc, but when testing them, they seem to be too slick to get a good grip on. I am considering adding a little grit to the finish to make them look nice but add a little “gription”. What would work? Sand? I know I can turn them smooth, then carve flutes running the length of the handle to increase the gripability, but that would slow down the production too much, since I intend making a bunch of them. Your ideas on this is appreciated. Thanks, Gary.
Replies
I use ordinary beeswax on hammer handles and the like. seems to provide a more than adequate grip and develops a great patina. I think it stays a lillte soft rather than curing off like some other finishes.
Dave
I think the size and shape of the handle will have a big effect on the grip. Screwdriver manufacturers are always designing new handle shapes. If you decide to groove the handles, you don't necessarily have to use length wise flutes. Any grit or rough spots will quickly hurt the hand, especially on the end of the handle where we often push with the palm. Round handles also roll off the bench, part of why handles have flutes, flat spots or an oval shape.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Desertmaster,
I believe that pine tar will give you a grippable finish. But it has other problems. :-)
Enjoy,
Mel
PS If I had an answer, I would have given it to you. I will continue to check this thread to learn what others thing the answer may be.
Measure your output in smiles per board foot.
Hey gary,
Since you're planning on making them as gifts, have you considered shark skin? I'm not kidding, It's used on some very high end Japanese chisels and it is a great nonskid grip with a comfortable feel, good looks and pretty durable too.
Tom
desert,
No help here on a grippy finish. However, I've several times left a central section of a tool handle octagonal, (straight or tapered) while turning the fore and aft sections. You can either leave 3" or so octagonal (even hexagonal, tho that's more trouble), and begin turning with a bolster or fillet at each end, or just leave the flats unturned at the most bulbous part, and feather it into round as you turn away. This accomplishes the same thing as fluting, but is less, not more, work. Attractive, too, in my estimation.
Easiest to make a long octagonal stick, enough to make several handles, then cut to length before turning.
Regards,
Ray Pine
I believe it can depend on the type of wood to some extent, but the main factor is the shape.
When I have made handles I apply a shellac sealer then just wax with bees wax.
On the handle shown I made four flats with a disc sander.
If you are good with leather and sewing you can make up a "sock" , wet it and when it dries it will be a tight fit-very grippable-but is it worth the bother?
Thanks to all who replied; each of your ideas is appreciated. (Phillip that chisel handle is awesome.) I have plenty of beeswax to experiment with; also will try the shaped flats on the bulging area of the grip. I knew I could count on some feedback on this. If one particular idea works especially well I will repost here. Thanks. Gary
How about no finish at all? Over time each handle will get their own patina from the natural oils in ones hand.
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