I am trying to decide between buying, as my first bandsaw, the Grizzly Model G0555 and G1019. The only major differrence that I can see, other than price, is that the more expensive one has 2 blade speeds and a 1/4 hp more than the other.
The Grizzly 14″ Saw model G0555 for $425, it has a 1 hp motor, 13.5″ throat; 6″ resaw capacity, and the specs also indicate that you can add a riser block to increase the resaw capacity to 12″ or so.
Now on the Grizzly web site I see that they have another 14″ saw, Model G1019, that was originaly $325, now reduced to $285, it has a 3/4 hp motor, 13.5″ throat; 6.25″ resaw capacity, you can also add a riser block to increase the resaw capacity to 12″ or so.
It just seems to me that the G1019 is the the way to go any opinions?
Grizzly web site specs G1019
http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?ItemNumber=G1019
Grizzly web site specs G0555
http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?ItemNumber=G0555
Replies
I have had the 1019 for a few years and feel that I got my money's worth when I bought it. One thing you might want to consider is that the fence that comes with the 1019 is useless. I recently bought a Fasttrack fence http://www.prairieriverwoodworking.com/products.asp?parid=31 which was a great addition.
Dick Durbin
Johnny,
I just bought the G0555 and received it this past week. I am very pleased with it, and I feel that it is worth the extra costs, although I don't have both side-by-side to compare them. In addition to the differences that you mentioned the G0555 has an excellent fence included with it, and a quick release for the blade tension. I am very pleased with the heavy guage of materials used in the saw, including a very heavy duty stand, and a nice finish on all metal surfaces. It tracks beautifully and is very quiet and smooth running. I just received the riser block kit, but have not yet installed it.
While I don't have the other Gizzley to compare it to, I have had other import bandsaws and I can tell you they were no where near this quality. The materials used in the components were of a lighter weight, making it very difficult to get the saw into tune and keep it there. That can be very frustrating.
I think the quick tension release is going to be a big plus, as it is so easy to fail to release it with the knob adjustment type. With either saw you will have to buy a new blade, the ones that come on the saw are very low quality.
I have no regrets about springing for the better of these two saws.
Woody
Ditto Woody's comments. Tension release is a big deal. Also, roller guides are superior to guide blocks.
Doug
True, the roller guides are a BIG plus, can't believe that I failed to mention this -- thanks!
I'm heading over to the Grizzly Showroom in Muncy, PA, on thursday, I have decided that I am going to get the G0555. It really seems like it is the way to go and that it is worth the extra cash. I can't wait to see the Grizzly showroom.
Thanks again Johnny.
When you get yours, take the time to tweak whatever isn't quite right, if there is anything. Mine didn't have a scratch on it when I opened the box and even after taking the upper arm off to install the riser block, I don't think it took more than an hour and a half for everything including the base. If you center the blade on the tires, you may be able to keep the fence parallel to the miter slot, like mine. I will make a taller resaw fence when I get a chance, but I have resawn 1"x6" white oak to about 1/16" and less without blowing out. The difference in thickness was my fault.Get some good blades! They don't need to be too pricey, just look around for some good ones. I found a local guy who buys the blade stock in bulk and makes them to whatever length is needed. I'm going to the Woodworking show this weekend and will definitely be looking at the booths to compare the cut quality between what I bought and the high priced ones. Since the majority of what he does has to do with sharpening, repairing and selling blades of one kind or another, I suspect it will be pretty close.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Good choice. The G1019 isn't a bad tool, but the G0555 is just too much of a bargain to overlook. A buddy of mine got one last year and loves it. I occasionally kick myself from not buying at the same time, when it was 50 bucks cheaper.
The marketing logic behind the G0555 is that it's a "pre-upgraded" saw that comes out of the box with all the add-ons already added, at less cost than buying them separately. To put it another way, you could easily spend $285 on the G1019, add another $150 in accessories (fence, guides, etc), and it still wouldn't be as good a machine.
Hey, where are you in PA?
The 1019 is being discontinued according to an ad they sent me. I have had the GO555 for a year now, and still feel as though I got the best bandsaw for the money, bar none. Combined with the TimberWolf blades I am a re-sawing fool. The fence is of high quality and dead on accurate. I most recently used it to saw the finish off a large amount of Bolivian Rosewood flooring as it was faster, and less taxing on equipment than the planer. After several hundred feet of this the blade was cool as a cucumber.
The folks at Grizzly really did well with this one. You will not be disappointed with the G0555, but with the 1019 I am afraid that you would be very under powered.
Nick Roper
Overland Park KS
Nick, I too have the GO555 but am less happy with the fence than you are.
Here's why. When I position the fence and attempt to lock it down.. the far end of the fence, (at the opposite side of the table), raises up causing the fence to deflect or misalign.
I have a really tough time getting the fence to lock in the same position along it's full length.
Do you have this problem?
Thanks,
Bill
I know exactly what you are talking about, but to be honest I had forgotten all about it till just now. I found that if I kept tension on the inside of the channel by pulling the handle slightly toward me the entire time I traversed the fence it comes out perfect every time. You will have to make sure that your fence is perfectly straight to begin with though or it will seem as if it is moving on you. Start at the far left side of the table, slide it to the right pulling toward you slightly then lock it down. Measure from the fence to the right end of the table in both front and back if they are exactly the same your fence is true. If not, there is a tension rod that runs the length inside the fence for adjusting it. Another thing you can do if your technique is not compatible with mine, is to take a strip (or two) of Clear Packing Tape and apply it to the inside of the bar your fence clamps to. This will take up any slop and provide a smoother slide. Not just any tape will work though. The clear packing tape has lubricating properties.
Hope this helps.Nick
Thanks, Nick. I'll try what you suggest.
One thing.. when you speak of the tension rod inside the fence.. are you referring to the topside bolts you loosen in order to align the fence for blade drift?
My problem is that fence doesn't want to remain straight and steady when I pull down on the handle to lock it in place. The front of the fence moves to the right about 3/8".
I usually get the fence where I want it.. then push the fence forward against the rail and I try to lock it down. Sometimes it stays straight.. sometimes not.
Bill
Actually I believe the tension adjustment is underneath that inside the fence and that corrects for warp, which I have never experienced. As long as it is straight is all that matters. What these guys are saying about the glider is correct. That end will always have potiential to move but if you are sure it is all straight, and you pull toward yourself as you adjust the fence so there is no slack when you start to lock it down it shouldn't move like that. At least it doesn't for me. I just went down there and tried to duplicate the problem and the only way I could get it to happen is if I tried to adjust it by handling the fence itself. I never even touch the fence when I adjust it. Only the handle.Nick
Thanks again, Nick. I appreciate the time you've taken in this regard.
Bill
Oh not a problem at all. What Jackie Chan says down there is very true. All I have to do is let go of mine and it sticks.
Since I will be picking up my lathe tomorrow I will pick up some HDP and see about making a modification to replace that slide with something a bit more functional. Nick
Did you adjust the glider on the far side? You may also try pressing down on the fence in the middle as you lock it.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
I got back from the Grizzly showroom not too long ago. I bought the GO555. They didn't have the 1019 on the floor, they did have the 580 on the floor (though were out of stock ) after seeing the machines side by side, there really was no comparsion. I live in New York (on Long Island) I am at my father's house right outside Allentown, PA, I am going to have to wait until Saturday when I get back home to unpack and play. Oh well. Thanks again to everyone for all the info and the tips.
Well in my opinion you got the best saw for the buck right there. Mine has done the work of a much larger unit admirably. In fact I am so proud of it, I bought it some company in a Jet 1442 VS Lathe which I pick up in the morning.
Be sure and pick up a can of mineral spirits on the way home! They gave that grizzly of mine a bath in that nasty packing grease/glue before they sent it home. Oh and dont forget to order your Timberwolf blades!Nick
I got a 18" RICON and 'I' had to take a bath! After draggin' it down the driveway to the garage shop! I love it!
I'll bet you do love it! Congrats!
The way the Grizzly fence works.. there is a glider on the far side but it's only contact with the fence is a screw down rubber grommet on the fence. In other words the fence doesn't hook onto the far side rail like, say, my TS fence does.
That set up, it seems to me, just about guarantees deflection on lock down.
Bill
If there's enough side load to deflect the fence, that's too much for me to consider it safe. I checked mine to see how much it takes to make it move and I was satisfied with the stiffness. My TS fence doesn't hook the back rail, either. That one is a lot more substantial. If I had to design a fence for a saw, it would have T slots on top and a couple on each face. That way, if I wanted to attach a higher face for resawing, it would be very simple.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
You know I was just thinking, it should not be a real difficult project making something that would wrap around that back bar, out of a hunk of HMWHDPE. Only real problem I think would be cutting some threads in it. Maybe some sort of threaded insert?Nick
You can thread it with a regular tap or die. It's just a matter of not tightening the bolt too much.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Thanks, I think I might try and improve that bug a bit.
"...there is a glider on the far side but it's only contact with the fence is a screw down rubber grommet on the fence." This sounds remarkably like the design on my Jet table saw fence. "Just about guarantees deflection on lock down." Not so sure about that.
Now you've gone and made me curious. My friend Ron (whom I helped spend money on Monday, LOL) is just putting his G0555 together. Will have to take a look.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Be sure to read Woody's message (22076.28) before you go see your friend, Ron.
He describes a fix for the GO555 fence that might prove useful.
The reason I thought the screw down grommet was a design flaw is beause I was comparing it to the fence on my TS which hooks onto the back rail and helps lock the fence down tight making deflection less of a problem.
Also, when he attaches the front rail, he'll notice four screw holes on front of the table.. two upper and two lower. The two lower ones are the proper ones for attaching the front rail.
Good weekend, Jamie.
Bill
"When I position the fence and attempt to lock it down.. the far end of the fence, (at the opposite side of the table), raises up causing the fence to deflect or misalign."
Bill,
The locking cam mechanism on the fence is binding either from poor machining or from excessive force when locking it down. The cam is the piece that the plastic locking handle screws into.
Try locking the fence by lowering the handle to where it naturally stops, and then give it a fraction of a push to make sure its locked. The cam is a powerful clamping device - it doesn't take much to lock it in position. If you Tarzan the handle, you run the risk of doing damage to fence or the fence rail.
If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.
Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.
Dan,
Do you have the G0555? I just ordered the G1019 for $285 plus $58 shipping. I figured I couldn't beat the price and I didn't have a bandsaw..Regards,
Buzzsaw
Buzz',
I don't have the GO555 (I have Jet band saws in my shop), but I have seen it and know the fence locking mechanism. I concur, that 555 is a solid saw at an exceptional price. Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.
Bill, as Jackie says, the problem is in the cam that locks the fence down. I just assembled mine this week, and I had the same problem. If you remove the fence from the track you will see that the handle goes down well past 90 degrees when it is falling free, but when it is on the track it is likely stopping before it gets to 90 degrees, meaning it is not going down far enough to get a good solid lock by the cam. I took a flat file and very carefully filed off the beginning of the cam to allow it to lock further, and it quickly became very solid (although I did not take off enough for the handle to "bottom out" -- I wanted to leave plenty of room for future wear). I would take about 5 strokes with the file, put the fence back on the track to gauge progress, then take off a bit more as I needed it, in order to be very careful not to take off too much.
Woody
Woody, thanks very much for your input. I'm excited about what you have to say because it sounds like a fix. I have been so confounded about this problem. Just like yours.. I can only get the fence handle to go down about a third of the way.
I'm going for the fix soon as I get home. Thanks again!
Bill
Johnny, there is no comparison between the two machines. I have the 1019Z, bought a few years ago. I was just up at the Bellingham Grizzly showroom yesterday and took a look at the G0555 and it's smaller (3/4HP) version, the G0580. The big differences are in the fence, the blade guides and the quick tension release. Even if you stick to the G0580 for $$ reasons, you get all these features for only $40 more than you'd pay for the 1019 (on sale).
The fence on the 1019 is a paperweight. The new fence is a fence. It slides on a well-marked aluminum tube and has a magnified cursor window. Adjustable for blade drift if I recall correctly. (Not that you should have any drift; my 1019Z doesn't when used with quality blade).
The rollers bearing on the new saw are head-and-shoulders above the blocks on the 1019 series. First of all, they're bearings, not blocks, of course. But they are micro-adjustable using a knurled knob. Sweet. And (this is important) the carrier rod they ride on has a groove in the back side that keeps them much better aligned with the blade than the 1019's "flat side" design. Something I'm considering giving my eye-teeth for.
The quick tension release can't be underestimate as to usefullness. Quick blade changes, release the tension at the end of the day to take pressure off the bearings. No turning-turning-turning-turning involved.
My advice: Let the next suck.....guy take the 1019.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Hi Johnny I purchased my G0555 as a Christmas / birthday present. I only have two minor complaints... First, the blade they supply is only good for keeping the wheels from rattling around during shipping. Replace it as soon as you get the saw checked out. Second, you will need to purchase a 4 mm hex key for adjusting the bearing guides. (They do not supply one) All fasteners are metric, so be prepared to either have two small crescent wrenches or several metric sockets/wrenches for assembly. Other than that, I'm glad I went for the G0555. SawdustSteve
Johnny,
I am also interested in this bandsaw. The Grizzly catalog does not mention the quick-release tension lever, but it is included, as others have mentioned. Also, the saw comes with roller guides. This is great, but if you ant to use narrow blades, (1/8") you need to do a modification.
I sent an e-mail to Grizzly this morning asking for some clarification on both of these points. Below is the full text of the e-mail I received from Tara in Grizzly Customer Service regarding the quick tension-release lever and the use of 1/8" blades in the G0555:
Dear Mr. Schenker,
Thank you for your email dated February 25, 2005.
We appreciate your interest in our products. The G0555 does have the quick release tension lever, it just is not seen on the website. In order to use the 1/8" blade, we recommend you install fiber blocks. To install fiber blocks on the G0570 you will need the following:
Number required Description Part Number Cost $ each
1 each P1019005 GUIDE SUPPORT BRACKET $4.50
1 each P1019055 LOWER GUIDE SUPPORT $5.00
2 each P1019005A GUIDE BLOCK HOLDER $2.50
4 each PSS03M SET SCREW M6-1 X 8 $0.50
4 each P1019011 BLADE GUIDE BLOCK $0.75
The Guide Support Brackets, P1019005, are currently on backorder and should be arriving in approximately 4 - 6 weeks. You may call our ordering desk at 1-800-523-4777, press # 1, then press # 1 to speak to an operator to place an order for these items.
If we may be of further assistance, please do not hesitate to contact us. You are a valued customer and we look forward to hearing from you soon.
Sincerely,
Tara
Customer Service
Grizzly Industrial, Inc.
EN# 756
Matt:
This is my first bandsaw. Over the past year or so I have been trying to upgrade "my shop", getting some decent tools. Up until now I have been making due with some old, undersized, underpowered and beaten up sears power tools that I inherited from my father in law. A table top saw, a small drill press and a grinder was the extent of my shop, along with the usual circular saw and corded and cordless drills.
I got along ok, but things just took so long to get done. To rip a piece of plywood or other stock took forever to get it set up, making dados, another nightmare. I recently upgraded to the Ridgid TS3650 table saw, for all the problems i read about, I love the saw. it makes life so much easier. Rips, dados and in general cuts like a charm. This tempted me to try to resaw on it, and do other things that I KNEW should be left for a band saw. Mistake. One seriously nasty cut later on my index finger. (which i have pics of !!!!) I decided I was getting the right tool for the job.
I "researched" as much as I could on the matter got some opinions as to brand. Grizzly seemed to be the hands on winner. The model I kinda allowed myslf to be directed to by the guys on the forums, using their opinions the g0555 seemed like the best. When I was in the Grizzly showroom, side by side, there really was no comparsion for what i was willing to spend. Just the heft and solidess of the saw itself, the fence sold me. I figure everything else on the saw will turn out to be a bonus. I got a quick idea that the rolling guides were better than the blocks, and what kind of HP I was going to need to do resawing and the like, after that I am a total newbie at bandsaws, I am going to have to read as much here as i can to learn about them. Including essentially how to use the saw, what blades (Nick I will be trying the Tiberwolf brand) to use for which application and the like.
Is there an online guide that shows you which blad to use for which application? What is the signficance of the 1/8" blades as compared to other dimensions? Tommorrow I get back to NY to setup the saw, play around alittle, then its off to get a good guide on bandsaws, any suggestions?
johnnybuilt,
In my shop, the bandsaw occupies a very important place. For a long time, I did not own a tablesaw, and used my bandsaw to rip. I still prefer the bandsaw when ripping narrow stock (anything under 4"). The one I have been using is the Jet 14" model. It has served me very well.First thing you should know -- blades make a huge difference. Here's what you can do to improve the blade that comes with your saw. Take it out of the machine. Next, use a pair of metal cutters to carefully snip the blade into 6-inch sections. Now, collect all those six-inch section into a little stack, and wrap some masking tape around them to cover the teeth. Walk to the nearest trash receptacle and drop the bundle in. That will take care of the stock blade. Next, go buy either a 1/2" Timberwolf blade or a 1/2" Woodslicer blade from Highland Hardware.In my experience, the Timberwolf blades cut straighter, but the Highland Hardware blades leave an amazingly smooth finish. With both of thesse blades, I have no blade drift at all.Regarding your question about 1/8" blades, you will need one of these if you want to use your bandsaw to cut curves. The tighter the curve, the narrower the blade needs to be. I have found that 1/8" blades will handle almost all the curves I need to cut. Just keep in mind what I wrote about the band rollers on the Grizzly G0555: if you want to use 1/8" blades, it looks like you'll have to get some additional equipment.You asked about a good bandsaw book. I'll recommend two, both of which were very helpful to me when I first started using this machine. I still refer to both of them on occasion. Here are the titles:"Band Saw Handbook" by Mark Duginske. If I had to choose just one bandsaw book, this would be it. Lots of tips on usage, blades, tune-ups, and jigs."The Bandsaw Book" by Lonnie Bird. This title should be pretty easy to remember!Here are a couple of my own up-front tips:
-- When you install a new bandsaw blade, make sure the teeth are facing DOWNward. Don't laugh, you'd be surprised how many new bandsaw users install bandsaw blades with the teeth facing UPward and then can't figure out why the saw won't cut. Guess who did this ONCE when he installed his first bandsaw blade?
-- Make sure you remove the table pin and open up all the guides BEFORE you start to remove the blade. Again, it sounds obvious, but you'd be surprised how many new users make this mistake. One more time, guess who made this mistake ONCE?The bandsaw is a tool you can really fall in love with, and you'll be very glad you have one. Feel free to ask any other questions you have about it.
Edited 2/25/2005 4:07 pm ET by Matthew Schenker
If you want application guides, most blade manufacturers have that info on their website.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Well I finally got the saw home and assembled yesterday. I have been playing around with it, just learning what does what, the rollers wheels etc. So far I like it a lot. I made one modification so far. On the base, rather than add a mobile base, I added 4 heavy duty locking wheels, which raised the unit by 2.5 inches, but was $25 rather than the $70 plus for the mfg mobile base. The way the base was constructed, it could easily handle it and it seemed like a natural addition instead of the adjustable feet they supplied.Otherwise the saw went together in a snap. I took my time reading and rereading everything and it still went together in about 3 hours. The saw, except the top was pretty clean, but boy, did the mineral sprits come in handy there!!As for the saw....everyone was right, the OE blade is junk, I don't understand why not just supply a quality blade, or don't even bother. I live not to far from the main Timberwolf Office in NY, I will drop by there today to what I can pick up. As for the fence, it doesn't lock down at a 90 but that doesn't bother me. Where it does lock, because of the fence design and strength, it is secure with little, if any, deflection. If I really need to make sure it wont move I could always add a clamp. I really wasn't too happy with the guide post, when I was making the initial adjustment to the support bearing I noticed lots of play, even after I locked down the assembly lock bolt. I tracked the movement to the guide post, I locked that down, then there was no movement. the only problem is that when you have to adjust the guide post height, the entire assembly has the ability, and the tendency, to twist as you adjust the height.One question: do the blade guide bearing (rollers) come in contact with the blade so that they ,move when the blade does, or do they just sit very close on either side to rein in wayward movement?
Johnnybuilt,
With my Jest 14" bandsaw, the guide post moves around a bit when it's loose, and as I adjust the height. When I tighten it, the post stays put. Even when tight, the guard can be shifted if you force it. I've toyed with other 14" bandsaws, and this is true of all of them. Hopefully, we're talking about the same thing here. When the guard is locked, you may be able to TWIST it a bit, but the HEIGHT should not change. Of course, you shouldn't be twisting it either once it's locked.Regarding the fence, what do you mean it does not lock down at 90 degrees? Do you mean it is not parallel with the miter slot? Or do you mean it is not perpendicular with the table surface? If it's the first one, you need to fix that. If it's the second one, it may not be a problem until you cut something that is, say, 2" or 3" high. On my Jet 14" fence, there are a series of nuts that you loosen, allowing you to shift the fence until it is parallel with the miter slot; then you re-tighten the nuts and the fence is square. I assume the G0555 would have a similar system for aligning the fence?With the SIDE rollers, they should run snugged to the blade. But make sure they are not in contact with the teeth. With the REAR roller, you should leave a space about the thickness of a piece of paper folded in half. When you run the machine, the side rollers should spin with the blade; the rear roller should only move when you push wood through the machine.
Edited 2/28/2005 11:39 am ET by Matthew Schenker
As far as the guide goes we are talking the same, not knowing what things are called I used the lingo in the manual. I just would have thought that they would have made the entire assembly be able to adjust up and down without moving side to side. Once the assembly is locked it doesn't move at all. I just means that when I adjust the height, the book says that the rollers should be 1" above the work, I will have to double check the alignment of the rollers.As for the fence, I meant the handle doesn't fully lock perpendicular to to the floor. It is well below the plane of the table top and the fence itself is squarely on top of the table. Sorry I was unclear about that. The power here went off briefly twice in about a half hour span, so I lost what I was writing, and my train of thought, twice.
When I lived in NYC the power went off twice in the 26 years I lived there. The "big one" in 65 (I think it was 65, I was only 4 or 5) and again in 1977. Out here on the "island" it goes out , if you averaged it out over the 6 years I've been here, about once a month, sometimes more, sometimes for a few seconds, sometimes for a few hours, so you think I'd be used to it by now, but I'm not.I made the adjustments to the rollers to keep them behind the "Gullets", with the spacing called for between the rear roller and the blade, I was wondering whether there need to be similar spacing between the side rollers, the instructions said "light contact" I just wanted to double check. So far though all is going fine, I can't wait to get a good blade on there to see what this thing really can do. One thing I was really surprised about is how quiet it is. I still have to give it a really good run and set it all just so, I was just real happy to get it together and running. I'm am sure that I will have tons more questions though. BTW thanks Bill afetr reading your post again, I went back and placed the front rail screws in their proper holes!By the way for any that are interested the Grizzly web site now shows that they are going to hold their "tent sale/ scratch and dent sale on June 18th"http://www.grizzly.com/TentSale/tentpa.cfm? A personal note: I do not work for Grizzly, this saw is the only Grizzly thing I own. When I was in the Grizzly showroom, they had a clearance area set aside, it seemed as if they knocked off and average of $15-40 per big ticket tool. I don't know about this sale. The showroom itself is worth seeing, it is enormous, they seem to have most of the things they have in their catalog on display. My kids had a ball watching the Goldfish in the pond by the waterfall by the stuffed Grizzly bear(yes in the store). they even have an are where you can try out many of their tools. On Thursday when I was there, it was snowing, so the showroom was pretty empty, I nearly had the place to myself.
Just to make sure we're on the same page, the blade guard can be set so it is just about 1/4" to 1/8" above the piece you're cutting. Essentially, I set my guard so it just clears the workpiece.Again, with my Jet 14", the guard may twist a bit as I adjust the height, but when I tighten it down, it straightens out.I've been thinking of upgrading my Jet 14" to get bandrollers and a blade tension crank. But when I priced them out, as upgrades, it would cost me over $200. Based on that, the G0555 seems like a good deal!
I went and rechecked my machine,I removed the set screw there was some packing material that was lodged between the height adjustment set screw and the notch in the bar. I blew that out, now when the set screw is tightened down the entire assembly squares up. thanks!
IIRC, the manual said to fold a dollar (or $100) bill in half and with half on each side of the blade, snug the side rollers, not pinching too tightly.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Correct adjustment of the rollers is covered in the manual. I think it recommends 1/64" gap. Same for the thrust bearing.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Most guides are meant to be set one "paper thickness" from the blade. I use a medium-sized Post-It note because I can fold it over the blade and it stays put via the sticky-stuff while I adjust the guides. Actually, once you get that distance fixed in your mind's eye, you won't need the paper. Also, since your blades have micro-adjust with those little knobs the process will be pretty easy compared to the old Grizzly 1019Z I have.
As far as the rear blade guide, you want it to be the same distance from the back of the blade as the side bearings are from the front of the gullet. Make sense? That will stop the blade from moving so far back that the side bearings are running on the teeth. The distance would be 1-2X the distance you use between the blade and the side rollers.
The improved design of the blade guide assembly on the G0555 was a welcome sight to me. The 1019 design makes for very sloppy movement of the guide assembly when the height of the whole thing is changed for thicker/thinner stock. That alone makes me want to change saws! But the 1019 does a great job, just a little more time-consuming.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Jamie,
The guide rollers are actually adjusted with an Allen wrench. The micro adjust that you are referring to moves the rollers front to rear, but not side-to-side as needed to adjust the blade side clearance. It is still a great setup, but I have found that the Allen wrench is a bit more tricky to adjust the side bearing clearance.
Woody
Ahhhh, gotcha. I'm still waiting for Ron to finish set-up on his, so I haven't played with it yet. (Can't believe he's taking so long! I'd be up all night putting them [jointer and bandsaw] together!)
Hmmmmm, so 'splain: Do you loosen them with the Allen wrench and then move them by hand, or does the AW turning actually adjust them?forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
The machine screw needs to be loosened just a bit. This allows the shoulder to stay in contact with the center of the bearing, which is between the screw and, for lack of a better word, the anchor. The "anchor" is cylindrical and the machine screw threads into a hole that is slightly off center. This is what makes it possible to move the center of the bearing in/out from the blade, due to the cylinder rotating. If the machine screw is loosened too much, the screw just turns without doing anything else.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Jamie,
It is an awkward adjustment, which surprised me. You use an Allen wrench to loosen a bolt that "clamps" the side bearings into position, then you place the Allen wrench in the center of each each bearing and twist it to move the bearing in (closer) or out from the blade. It is as though each bearing is mounted on a cam and you rotate this cam to bring it nearer the blade. It is a bit of a "herky-jerky" movement for making this fine 1/64" adjustment that you want to make. The micro adjustment simply moves the entire mount forward or back (i.e., the adjustment to place the pair of bearings just behind the gullets). I was a bit disappointed in this adjustment, and the fact that you have to keep an Allen wrench nearby, but overall I am loving the saw.
Last night I took and old pine 2x4 and sawed off a 4" wide slice that was less than 1/16" thick, so thin that it was translucent. And, this was with the stock blade that cuts like a washboard! It was uniform thickness throughout, and with no lead in the blade. With my old bandsaw I had to cut at least 1/8 " oversize to allow me to clean up the cut, and hope that would make it. I rarely attempted to resaw with it. My TimberWolfs have arrived, as has my riser block, but I had some rough work that I wanted to do with the stock blade before putting on the good stuff. The best is still to come!
Woody
Jamie,
Photo 16 in this link posted by Matthew clearly shows this adjustment using the Allen wrench:
http://www.liwoodworkers.org/woodrack/images/grizzlybandsaw.pdf
This is a great review of the quality and performace of the tool.
Woody
The G0555 does not need three people to assemble it. The only reason to have a second person is if one person can't lift the saw onto the base. Removing the top half to add the riser block isn't very hard, either. It's about 30% of the weight, or 60lb. If the little Allen wrench is hard to use for adjusting the bearings, try a T handle wrench. They're easier to use and not as hard on the fingers.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Thanks for all the info, Woody. I'm printing some stuff out for Ron. For your allen wrench, do you have an extra rare-earth magnet around? I use 'em on most of my machines to keep various adjusters handy, and my drill press to hold the chuck key.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Do you have a Harbor Freight store near you? I think they have them in packages of six magnets.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
No HF in the neighborhood. I order other things from Lee Valley once or twice a year, just add the magnets on when I need them.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
I am also looking at 14 in. band saws. What do you think about the General 90-100 and 90-125? The 125 is a cast iron saw and the 100 is a solid sheet metal frame saw. General's equipment gets good reviews. I can not find out any info. on the 100 & 125.
For anyone who is considering the Grizzly G0555, I just came across a nice little site. It includes a review, along with some clear photos showing three guys assembling the saw. The review covers a lot of familiar territory about the G0555, but the assembly photos are nice.
Here it is:
http://www.liwoodworkers.org/media/newsletter/LIWCNewsletterFeb03.pdf
By the way, does anyone know if Grizzly did in fact improve the blade-guard mechanism in recent releases?
Edited 3/3/2005 9:52 am ET by Matthew Schenker
STUDY EVERY OPTION CAREFULLY!
Just a few months ago I purchased the 17" Grizzly bandsaw, and it took six weeks of study and comparison before deciding which make and model to buy. An expensive shop tool is not a quick decision; it may be a tool you depend on for years.
Analyze the structure- steel or cast iron? Are the wheels cast iron or aluminum? What kind of blade guides? Can they run 240V? Examine the fence, the blade widths, the overall weight of the tool. All these factors are instrumental in making the right decision.
Ings
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