Replies

1. 
   JohnWW | Apr 20, 2007 06:24pm | #1

   Many industrial horizontal mortisers only turn at 3,000 RPM so high speed isn't needed.

   John White, Shop Manager, Fine Woodworking Magazine

1. 
   woodman2263 | Apr 20, 2007 06:29pm | #3

   John,

   Am I not thinking correctly, or could this machine be used a dedicated mortiser?  You think 3450 rpms is enough speed to cut a mortise?  Has someone tried this with this machine?  What are your entire thoughts on my idea?

   Jeff

1. 
   JohnWW | Apr 20, 2007 06:48pm | #4

   When the Grizzly machine came out a year ago it was bought by a few people who post here and their initial assesment, if I recall correctly, was that it worked well as a mortiser.  I haven't seen any recent comments on the tool. 

   We have never tested one at the magazine so I have no first hand knowledge about them, but I will suggest that we get one in for a tool review.

   Grizzly only markets this tool as a boring machine, they don't promote it as a mortiser which throws an extra strain on the chuck because of pressure exerted by the side to side cutting motion.  The chuck is a standard Jacobs style which isn't meant to be used where there are side loads, but if not pushed too hard it will serve.  The bearings may also be a bit small for the loads exerted by mortising, but again if not pushed too hard, they are more than likely adequate.  At the price, you could wear out several of the Grizzlies for the price of the next least expensive machine.

   John White, Shop Manager, Fine Woodworking Magazine

    

2. 
   blewcrowe | Apr 20, 2007 06:26pm | #2

   I believe those spiral router bits cut well without speed.

3. 
   RickL | Apr 20, 2007 07:14pm | #5

   I've talked with several folks over the past year who are using it successfully as a slot mortiser. Commercial slot mortisers run at 3,450 to 5,000 rpm. Use HSS two flute endmills for cutters. Another option is to buy the slot mortiser off the combo machines such as Robland, Minimax and build  a base and add a router or my preference is a regular motor and run it at 5,000 rpm. They also come with a mortising chuck. Better than the Domino as you can use bigger tenons. A year ago you could have bought it for less. I've been using commercial slot mortisers for 25 years. It's about time folks figured out how good these machines are. Loose tenons are so much better. You can also do doweling and horizontal boring.

   As far as the chuck and the bearings, it's not a big deal. Typically you are only taking light loads  laterally as you nibble into the cut as you plunge in a bit at a time.  You go side to side and slowly ease the bit in.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 4/20/2007 12:18 pm ET by RickL

1. 
   woodman2263 | Apr 20, 2007 07:49pm | #6

   Rick,

   So are you saying it would be a "green light" to use this machine for a mortiser?

   Jeff

1. 
   RickL | Apr 20, 2007 07:58pm | #7

   If I didn't already have a mortiser I'd take a chance on the G0540. I have access to the Rojek mortiser in a local school. From the description of the G0540 the Rojek doesn't sound any better and it costs over $1,600. If the motor goes you still and an XY table for less than the Robland. You could always do the router thing later and still be ahead of the game. Even if you change the bearings every year you would still be cheaper. I get bearings a http://www.bearingbrokersinc.com   Nachi bearing for Unisaw arbors cost me $1.60 each.

4. 
   bones | Apr 20, 2007 09:49pm | #8

   I have one of these, and it does go slower, but I use router bits in it.  The way the motor is mounted to the base, you could easily make a mount out of plywood to change to a router if you desired. I think someone even posted a picture of one here.  I agree if they made an adapter it would sell.  I even mentioned this when I  bought mine, but the official line is its a boring machine, not a mortising machine.  Go figure.

   Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases:
   If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it.
   And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
   
5. 
   Napie | Apr 21, 2007 12:48am | #9

   Forget the router, no need. The mortiser on my old Robland turned at 3750 RPM, (I should have never sold it......), I used two flute HHS end mills from the machinist supply house.  They are quite low in cost so I considered them throw-a-ways, but could get maybe 80 to 100 4"x2" mortises in oak with one.  Standard router bits will not perform well in these machines, but with the proper bits, it doesn’t get any better for cutting mortises.  They can keep that Domino thing.  

6. 
   philip | Apr 21, 2007 10:43am | #10

   Jeff, that speed is good enough. What kind of chuck does it have? You have several options in addition to using ordinary straight router bits-they will still cut acceptably at that speed, especially those over 1/4 inch diameter.
   As stated, two flute machine mills are good-the cobalt steel ones will last forever on wood.
   Or you can get the industrial double prong type as used on industrial slot mortice machines.
   Or you can use the type that were supplied with Inca machines.
   Or you can grind your own from twist drills- not difficult and offers a wide range of sizes.
   Forget about the router idea.

   Philip Marcou
7. 
   mufti | Apr 21, 2007 02:02pm | #11

               The proper rotary mortice bits are still available and are low cost, or they are here in the U.K. The only drawback to using metalworking mill bits is the length is sometimes a problem, for example a 13mm diameter metal mill is 9.5cm long overall whilst the mortice bit is 15.6cm long. I think the wood bits are German.

1. 
   Scrit | Apr 21, 2007 03:10pm | #12

   Clico still manufacture in Sheffield and Titman down in Clacton do a range of high performance slotting bits to their own design as well

   Scrit

2. 
   philip | Apr 22, 2007 10:46am | #17

   Mufti, just as a matter of interest, that length you mention is what they call the intermediate or long series: there is also the extra long series and a 12 or 13mm plain shank cobalt 3 flute of this series is 135/140mm long. But they nail you on the price .
   Philip Marcou

1. 
   mufti | Apr 22, 2007 06:23pm | #18

              Thank you Philip. We must be lucky here because I order through The Bedford Saw and Tool Co. and prices are surprisinglyreasonable.

   . My real edge is that I have been able to buy old industrial weight tools which, whilst not so convenient as modern stuff, perform as well if not better than much of the new gizmos. 

8. 
   art | Apr 21, 2007 05:40pm | #13

   I've had one for about two years and use it primarily for loose tenon joinery. I use two flute end mills and they gice a nice clean mortise. I'd never go back to doing it any other way.  Art

1. 
   Napie | Apr 21, 2007 10:15pm | #14

   I have been thinking about one.  So I gather you would recomend it?

1. 
   art | Apr 21, 2007 10:28pm | #15

   Definitely. When I first got it, the jacobs chuck came loose on the shaft twice due to the lateral pressure. A drop of lock-tite fixed that problem and it hasn't occured since. Use the two flute end mills that are used for cutting alluminum. It assembled easily with no hitches and is a rock solid machine.  Mine is not a production environment but I use it very frequently and so far have had no problems. Good luck,  Art

1. 
   Napie | Apr 21, 2007 10:36pm | #16

   Thanks Art!

9. 
   colebearanimals | Apr 26, 2007 03:13am | #19

   Hi Woody,

         Just ordered that Grizzly G0540 today. I have a large project coming up that is going to require a lot of mortise and tenons. We'll give it a try . Also ordered some end mills from Grizzly. It's certainly priced right.

                               Paul

   Maybe I should do a tool review for FWW :))

1. 
   Napie | Apr 26, 2007 04:14pm | #20

   I have been holding off on getting one, thanks for being the test subject!  I'd really like to know how it works out after you run it a while.

2. 
   woodman2263 | Apr 27, 2007 01:16am | #21

   cole,

   Please let us know how it works.  I think there are some of us getting close to pulling the trigger on this one!

    

   Jeff

1. 
   colebearanimals | Apr 28, 2007 05:25pm | #22

   Woody, Napie, and All,

         Just took delivery of the Grizzly G0540 yesterday. Very well crated ( Grizzly is doing a much better job of this detail than they used to ).

         Stay tuned

    

                              Paul

1. 
   Napie | Apr 28, 2007 06:35pm | #23

   Outstanding, I think I’m almost as excited about it as you are.  Please post some pictures if you can.

   Edited 4/28/2007 11:36 am ET by Napie

1. 
   colebearanimals | Apr 28, 2007 11:37pm | #24

   I sure will , if I can figure out how ( I'll get my son , the resident computer guru, to give me a hand ). It will be a few days though. I'm finishing up a kitchen that has to be done ahead of time. Escrow is closing early or something, what a hassle. So............... Don't touch that dial :)

                                 Paul

   Edited 4/28/2007 4:39 pm ET by colebearanimals

10. 
    cmascolo | Jan 06, 2021 11:43pm | #25

    I've used slot mortisers which are driven from the motor arbor of a table saw. The sliding table and controls are built right onto the side of saw. Those motors run in the 3,450 to 3,800 RPM range. The key to getting good results, however, is using an end mill bit, not a router bit. If they are built well, they yield nice, cleanly cut mortises. I've always wondered why table saw manufacturers don't offer this feature on their saws, making good use of the saw's motor for another joinery option. The motor is right there servicing the saw blade. Just outfit the saw with a motor having an arbor extending out of both ends.