Replies

1. 
   generalkael | Apr 21, 2006 02:20am | #1

   Hi!

   I have the Grizzly 1023SLX (extension table is the difference) and I love it. I admit that I ripped off the stock Shop Fox fence and replaced it with the Incra TS Fence.

   I've used the Powermatic 66 and the Delta Unisaw prior to this, and frankly save your bucks by buying the Grizzly. It's a damn good machine. You might want to swap out the belt, and make sure to tune it after you set it up. After that, slap in a good blade and cut some wood!

   I like mine a lot and think it's worth purchasing, especially since you are saving $1000 bucks over the Unisaw and 66. Then you can buy wood with the savings, or save the savings or....

   Scott
1. 
   highfigh | Apr 21, 2006 04:13am | #2

   Your saw only has one belt? I have a 5 year old 1023 right tilt and it has three belts.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

1. 
   generalkael | Apr 21, 2006 05:28pm | #7

   Well call it a typo, there are 3 belts.Scott
   Slacker Extraordinaire
   Specializing in nothing but knowledge in everything.

2. 
   user-93560 | Apr 21, 2006 05:24pm | #6

   Thanks for the feedback. Was the fence that came with it so bad that you had to buy something different?

1. 
   generalkael | Apr 21, 2006 05:39pm | #9

   I got the upgraded shop fox fence which is up there with the beisemeyers, and very little deflection .002". My issue was getting consistently repetable placement that was exactly the same, thus if I wanted 1.25", it might vary by a few thousands of an inch each time, I don't have this issue at all with the Incra, and there's not "tapping" the fence this way or that to get it just right. You just slide it to the spot, lock the clamp and bingo, 1.25" on the dot. If you make a lot of jigs, sacrificial fences, etc for your TS fence, you have to do a little redesign because of the way the fence is setup, but it's extremly stable and accurate, and there's never been a jig I couldn't modify to work with the fence (that I've tried to change).If you go for the Incra fence, don't get the 1023SLX because the extension table won't work with the Incra with serious modifications to the table.Scott
   Slacker Extraordinaire
   Specializing in nothing but knowledge in everything.

1. 
   highfigh | Apr 21, 2006 06:04pm | #10

   Is the Incra fence indexed somehow? I have their cheapo plastic router fence and it has small teeth with(IIRC) 1/64" steps. I kept the Shop Fox fence on mine and by adding a washer to lower the indicator and looking it from directly overhead, that thing is dead nutz. The line is fine enough that I can see it it's getting heavier or not. Unless the number of pieces being cut is high and they're going to be placed next to each other, .002" is really not going to be much of a problem. I also have the 7' rails, so I don't think the Incra will work on that.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

2. 
   user-93560 | Apr 21, 2006 06:12pm | #11

   Thanks. I had an Incra on a previous saw and liked it, not for the joints you could make ( I never did) but for the accuracy. The Incra website seems to show all the rails as being longer than the 1023S, much longer. I don't want the large extension. Does Incra make a shorter model?

3. 
   John_D | Apr 21, 2006 08:55pm | #14

   A properly adjusted, accurate fence is a joy to use.  I was cutting some parts for a lumber cart out of 3/4" ply.  I've learned to trust my fence, so I was just setting it to the scale and cutting, got myself a nice stack of six pieces all exactly 10" wide.  Or so I thought.

   I pulled out a tape measure, just double-checking, and they were all exactly 1/16" too wide.  I tapped the fence in about 1/16 and was preparing to shave that extra off, when I decided to double-check the board's width with another rule.

   Well, the boards were fine.  Ten inches, spot on.  It was my tape measure that was suddenly off by a full 1/16".  What happened?  While I was cutting, I'd not noticed that my youngest son was playing with my tape measure, pulling it out several feet and snapping it back hard like a yo-yo, stretching the little holes the rivets are in... about 1/16", I reckon.

   I'm guessing you're as confident in your Incra as I am in my Bies, though I'm not too trusting of my tape measure any more. :)My goal is for my work to outlast me.  Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.

1. 
   generalkael | Apr 21, 2006 11:37pm | #16

   I agree that a well adjusted fence is a must. I've used the Beisemeyer on the Unisaw and it was good, but I always tend to be a little heavy or light when having to go back and match a piece.With a tape measure, it's a good rule of thumb to start at the 1" mark and add 1" to the desired measurement, thus if you want to cut something 36" long, start at the 1" mark, and mark at the 37" mark (not a typo). The little clamp on tape measures are notorious for moving over time and should not be trusted for important measuremnets.I've started using a folding measuring rule and I love it. It's a little larger than a tape measure, but it's always dead on without having to worry about starting at the 1" mark.Just my 2 cents worth.
   Scott
   Slacker Extraordinaire
   Specializing in nothing but knowledge in everything.

2. 
   John_D | Apr 22, 2006 12:19am | #17

   I'm always careful when rewinding the thing, and have not had this issue before.  I'm awfully used to the convenience of a tape measure!

   Edit:  I should say that the fence I find so accurate is the Biesemeyer on my Unisaw.  I've got it accurately dialed in and find it's very repeatable.  One thing that helps is, making sure you're plumb above the cursor line when making a reading!

   My goal is for my work to outlast me.  Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.

   Edited 4/21/2006 5:21 pm by John_D

3. 
   highfigh | Apr 22, 2006 06:35pm | #23

   If you want to lessen the effect of not being plumb, add a washer or two between the indicator and the fence, so the indicator is closer to the scale. Also, make sure the plastic plate is installed so the line is at the bottom, not on top.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

4. 
   bones | Apr 22, 2006 06:18am | #18

   I have multiple tape measures. I pick one and stick with it. When I cut the board on the TS, I use the tape measure on the TS to get it close, but I allways check a final time with the tape i'm using for the project. I think if you use different measuring tools, you are asking for trouble. If you stay consistant and your measuring tool is off by a hair, it will flow through all the cuts and come out ok in the end.  Just my 2cw.

5. 
   John_D | Apr 22, 2006 07:44am | #19

   If your tape measures 1/16" long on all pieces, it's no good to use it to "balance out", because one piece 20" will be 20 1/6, and the matching two 10", 10 1/16" each, will add to 10 1/8.My goal is for my work to outlast me.  Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.

6. 
   bones | Apr 22, 2006 05:51pm | #20

   I may not have made it clear. Let me rephrase. If I have a tape that says 10' and is acutally 10 1/16th (measured against a true source), and I use it for the whole project, I will still come out ok en the end. This is because, that 1/16 off will be there for every measurement. Any measuring tool is as good as it's tolerances. You get into trouble with you have two measuring devices that may have different tolerances. Take your tape measure for example. You look at the mark on that metal ribbon that says 10' and take it for granted that it is acutally 10'. It's all relative. The point I was trying to make is pick one measuring tool and stick with it, and (if you read it correctly), you should be ok.  Now if I could come up with a laser tape that I could calibrate to a source i.e. the tape on my saw, then I could make some money. 

7. 
   highfigh | Apr 22, 2006 06:32pm | #22

   If you only use one tape and check it against a steel rule for reference occasionally, it keeps the variables to a minimum. I have a couple tapes but any time I make or cut anything, I use only one. I use the other to get rough measurements when accuracy doesn't matter as much. I also set up my saws and jigs with the yellow one so there's no chance of grabbing the wrong one. It may be slightly over/under absolute accuracy but since I use it to measure what I need AND for the cuts, there's no discrepancy unless multiple pieces are being placed next to each other. That's called 'tolerance stacking' and becomes a major problem on big jobs. OTOH, it's impossible to be absolutely accurate so we just need to be dilligent with our measuring tools.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

   Edited 4/22/2006 11:38 am by highfigh

3. 
   user-93560 | Apr 21, 2006 05:30pm | #8

   I will need to move mine around due to space limitations. Do you have a mobile base? If so, how well does it work?

1. 
   generalkael | Apr 21, 2006 07:47pm | #13

   I do have the mobile base from Shop Fox. It's great. I don't care for the extension that's need for the SLX extension table, but a lot of that has to do with the heaving of the concrete in my garage. Overall, the mobile base is really nice.Scott
   Slacker Extraordinaire
   Specializing in nothing but knowledge in everything.

1. 
   highfigh | Apr 22, 2006 06:26pm | #21

   I don't think any of the mobile bases will work well with heaving concrete. My last garage had some big cracks and with the same base (Shop Fox and extension) it was a PITA. In the new garage, it's a piece of cake. If it's the stops that are causing the problems, maybe putting them at the outside corners as you face the feed side of the saw will help. Easy to get to and really keep it in one place.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

2. 
   Knotscott | Apr 21, 2006 01:34pm | #3

   I've used the 1023S which is the same saw but is right tilt.  IMO it's a great saw.  I read lots of positive comments from other happy owners as well.  Hard to find a better deal on a cabinet saw.

   Put a top notch blade on it on make some dust.

    

3. 
   bones | Apr 21, 2006 05:09pm | #4

   I've had the 1023slx for a while now and love it. The new FWW that just arrived gave it the best value. You cant beat the price.  Here is a link to my original post with some pic's. You will find it has more than enough power to get the job done.  Good luck you will enjoy it.

   http://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/messages?msg=4957.1

1. 
   user-93560 | Apr 21, 2006 05:22pm | #5

   I don't see the FWW on the Grizzly site. What is the difference? Do you know how I can see the specs? What is your power source (110, 220, single phase, etc.)? Was the fence that came with it not worth using?

   Thanks for your advice.

1. 
   bones | Apr 21, 2006 06:35pm | #12

   It's the latest issue. I don't know if it's made it to the web yet. The Sawstop was a top dog, but at 3,200 bucks it was out of my leage. Mine is powered at 220 and you have to put your own plug on it.  I am using the stock fence that is the bessy clone. Works fine. I did not have any issues with it at all. My tables were dead flat and fit and finish were fine. I had less than a thousand of runout on my arbor and same on being parallel to the miter slots. Here has been the only mods for me. I bought the Inncra 1000se miter gauge. It's worth the money.  I replaced the stock guard with the PSI overarmgaurd and use the microjig splitters. Hope this helps. If you have any other questions let me know. 

   To help with set up I also bought from grizzly the magnetic base for checking runout. It's worth the money.

   http://www.grizzly.com/products/H3022

   Edited 4/21/2006 12:15 pm ET by bones

4. 
   DougF | Apr 21, 2006 10:25pm | #15

   I have the left tilt model and I installed Beisemeyer fence from my old saw.  I also have the Incra 3000SE miter.  My saw is stationary but I have it mounted on a Shop Fox mobile base for those rare times when I do move things around and also to raise the saw up to better fit me.  I can afford a more expensive saw but before I bought the Grizzly I did try out several other brands at a friend's cabinet shop and frankly I couldn't tell enough difference to justify the cost differential.  He also tried mine and felt it was generally equal in feel and performance to his Powermatics with the exception of the Grizzly's slightly more vibration that could be related to the mobile base and/or other factors.  In a commercial production environment, I doubt the Grizzly 1023 would stand up to the wear and tear created by constant usage.

   I have two complaints: The first is related to the dust deflector in front of the blade.  The idea is that the deflector will throw most of the dust downward and be more readily picked up by the DC rather than against the front inside of the cabinet and out through the blade tilt slot.  The deflector is very thin metal and if you, as I did, happen to to slice a thin piece that wedges down into the opening between the blade and the throat plate, it can distort the deflector right into the saw blade.  To Grizzly's credit, they replaced the damaged part and paid for the repairs to the blade.  The other beef is that the "dust ramp" prevents switching the dust port to the right side where I prefer to have it located. 

   Were I doing it again, I would either buy the Saw Stop or another Grizzly.

   Doug