Replies

1. 
   woodaddic1 | Oct 30, 2003 05:15am | #1

   I've had the 1023 (110) for 2 years now.  The saw came machined correctly and I had no problem getting it up and running.  I just recently purched the Table Saw book by Kelly Meher(?), and tuned my saw up correctly.  Let me tell you, it purrrrrrs like a kitten.  No compaints about the saw whatsoever.  The 2 hp motor has gone through everything I have pushed its way without any hesitation.  I recentl bought the wide kerf woodworker II blade and it was a good investment.  No problem with the hardwoods and zero tearout crosscutting hardwood or birch 9-ply.

   Ryan

2. 
   BG | Oct 30, 2003 05:32am | #2

   Rupert,

   I bought the 1023s (220) about a year ago and its been great.  I cut a lot of 2"+ wood with a 24 tooth Freud and its like cutting 1/2" ply.  I have been surprised at the impact the saw has had on my performance.  good luck 
3. 
   Len | Oct 30, 2003 05:36am | #3

   Rupert,

   I bought one last year. It's been great. I put a forrest WW2 on it and it cuts really smooth. I did buy a new miter gauge, an Incra 2000. I would highly recommend replacing that. Setup was relatively simple. Lots of cosmoleen smeared all over it. The top wasn't as polished as a PM but it was half the price. Needed to shim the wings to level them to the table. They reccomend masking tape but I used brass.

   My only complaint is the dust collection isn't as good as my old Ryobi BT-3000.

   If you search the through the archives you will find lots of opinions about this saw.

   Here are one thead

   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-knots/messages?msg=10404.1

   There are more.

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Oct 30, 2003 07:37am | #4

   Len

     "My only complaint is that the dust collection system isn't as good as my old Ryobi BT3000."

     There's not many TS's that are as good as the BT3000 for under $3000. ha..ha..

   Have a good evening...

   sarge..jt

1. 
   royr | Oct 30, 2003 02:25pm | #5

   Tahnks Everyone.

   I think I'm going with the 220 version since I'm still framing my garage/shop and haven't wired it yet.

   I'm off to Muncy to take a look.

   Thanks Again

   Rupert

2. 
   Len | Oct 30, 2003 04:49pm | #7

   Aww, come on Sarge. You make a guy feel bad for selling his TS.

   The new one has given me a whole new series of projects. I still haven't built my router table to replace the one on my Ryobi.

   Sniff, Sniff... I miss my little ryobi... Well, not that much....lol

   Have a good day,

   Len

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Oct 30, 2003 06:11pm | #8

   Len

      I have my BT souped up as you know. If I were considering a cabinet, the Griz is bang for the buck. It's a good choice if price is a concern, which is the case for most of us.

      If it weren't a concern, I would get the Felder at just over $30,000. Oh well, back to the Griz web-site. ha..ha..

   Regards...

   sarge..jt

4. 
   DougF | Oct 30, 2003 04:22pm | #6

   Rupert,

   I have had the 220v model for about a year.  I swaped out the shop fox fense for my old 40" beisemeyer.  Other than poor dust chute - I know how to improve it I just haven't gotten around to it yet - the saw has met all of my expectations.  I wish the dust port was on the left and I am thing about changing that but that's another story.

   For the price, I really don't think you can go wrong. - Doug

5. 
   mike4244 | Oct 30, 2003 07:21pm | #9

   Rupert ,I have this saw in my shop. Buy it, I have operated  many cabinet saws over 42 years. I have bought seven cabinet saws over the last 15 years. All for companies that I worked for except one, my own. Five of these saws were the G1023, including mine. They last, no problems , work great. Only the Powermatic and possibly the General would be rated better by me. Excellent value and customer service.

   If you need more than the standard rip capacity and do not want  to spend more for the long rails, move the rails to the right of the blade. This will give you a 38" rip. I never rip to the left of the blade anyhow, and 38" is enough capacity 99% of the time. Grizzly supplied me with the correct drill and tap for drilling the cast iron table.

   mike