Replies

1. 
   hammer1 | Nov 01, 2007 05:35am | #1

   How about some more info. What type of grooving bit? Roundnose, V-point, flat bottom. Crossgrain, long grain, plywood, solid wood. plunge router, guide board, freehand, router table, what size, etc. ?

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   Disputantum | Nov 01, 2007 06:09am | #2

   V-point, PT CDX plywood. 3/8" deep, 3/4" wide, 3/8" radius. Hand held plunge router, 1.5 HP

   Edited 10/31/2007 11:10 pm ET by Disputantum

1. 
   Routerman | Nov 01, 2007 04:43pm | #4

   Vee-groovers are not great tools, Chip cannot escape well, not much cutting as you approach the apex of the cutter, a bit power hungry.

   Indeed, expect adversity at the the depths you've chosen. Start with the lightest of cuts first. Better than starting at max depth and screwin' up the cutter before you know what it can do.

    

   Routers

2. 
   hammer1 | Nov 01, 2007 06:10pm | #6

   Although not impossible, I would think that a new bit should be fine. It's easy enough to look at the edges to see if they are damaged. With the exception of some cheap bits, most router bits are pretty good. Many brands are made by the same company.PT plywood usually isn't baby bottom smooth and it can often be wet. I'd make sure that the base plate on the router is smooth, no nicks or protruding screw heads. I'd also check the arm of the trammel and any attachments. This will tell you if something other than the bit is catching or dragging on the work.V shaped bits can push themselves up. It may be because the bit is dull, it can also be from waste building up and not being evacuated. This can be an issue with wet, stringy material. A more aggressive cut, full depth, will generate more waste. Knots, glue and hard grain can add complications. A chunk breaking out can push the bit and router.I'm guessing the 3/8" radius is a typo. Otherwise the circle would only be 3/4". Assuming you have a plunge router on a trammel, making several passes at increasing depths shouldn't be difficult, you just plunge a little deeper with each pass. You have to clear any debris that would cause the rig to catch or ride up. It does take steady downward and forward pressure to advance the bit. The deeper the cut, the more pressure. Many routers have adjustable speeds. A high speed would be appropriate for the size bit you are using. It may have a hard time if the speed is too low. There isn't anything particularly different with a V bit than many other common bits. Your perception of force may be different than mine. I look at all the variables associated with how you are approaching the job. Cover the basics such as free movement of the router, it only takes one small point of contact to make things hang up. It's always difficult to analyse a problem through the written word. Just a little while ago, a poster was having difficulty cutting with a circular saw. Several of us offered suggestions, not knowing exactly what the poster was doing. After several posts the person put up a picture. It was immediately evident what was causing the problem to any experienced saw user. The fix was simple, as they often are. The first place I look when having problems is the basics. I can't tell you how many students have come up to me with a dull drill bit only to find they had the drill in reverse. Students having trouble with a circular saw because they were standing on the cord. It's easy for a sharp edged router plate to hang up on a bit of raised grain. Easing the edge of the plate may solve catching issues. A certain amount of pressure is needed to advance a cutting bit. You shouldn't have to put your back into it but it won't cut like butter, either. The heavier the cut the more pressure, both down and out. Sometimes there can be better ways of handling a process depending on the material or the nature of the cut. A template and template guide on the router can get you up and off a rough surface and may give better repeatability than swinging on a trammel. Sorry I don't have a simple answer, I still have a lot of questions about exactly what you are doing. I don't think you should be having any significant problems if all the basics are working. Unless inspection of the bit dictates otherwise, the new quality bit would not be the first thing to blame. 1/4" shank. single flute, steel, from the bargain tent....maybe.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   Disputantum | Nov 01, 2007 10:27pm | #7

   Here's the project: http://www.non-disputantum.net/InProgress.html, and here's the bit I ordered: http://allita.net/Projects/omnicat5/ShowItem.php?cat_id=&sku=658-504, although, like I wrote, I got an Infinity instead of Jesada.I raised the bit and ran the router along the fence several times without the bit touching, and there were no problems. I bought the ply last month, and it was well-dried by the time I used it. I did try cutting at increasing depth: 3/16" on the first pass, and 3/8" on the second. It didn't improve things any. I have some experience with a router cutting grooves and dadoes with a straight bit, and I know how it should feel.ne sutor ultra crepidam

1. 
   hammer1 | Nov 01, 2007 11:56pm | #9

   A picture is worth a thousand words. No wonder you are having problems, even Sophia is distracted by Jayne. I still don't see any circles, just some curves, and,they aren't on the door. The link for the bit doesn't work.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

2. 
   Disputantum | Nov 02, 2007 07:40am | #10

   Here's another from the same party:

   View Image

   Dave Venditto sent me an informative email that said essentially it's the nature of the beast.ne sutor ultra crepidam

3. 
   mudman | Nov 02, 2007 05:30pm | #11

   Sorry Forrest Girl and other women, the saw dust induced testoterone talk is coming out.

   Wow.

    I can't believe the women who are considered sex symbols now days. The stars of that time had classic beauty and CLASS.Pardon my spelling,

   Mike

   Make sure that your next project is beyond your skill and requires tools you don't have. You won't regret it.

4. 
   WillGeorge | Nov 04, 2007 05:54pm | #13

   testoterone talk is coming out.
   When my wife spoke I said Yes Dear!And I won a few boxing matches in the Army.. OK,... so this little guy beat me up and I was not expectin' it!Reminding me.. I saw a picture of Jane a few days ago.. I stepped to the side a 'bit' and she looked old? I guess I was in a time warp!

3. 
   DaveinPa | Nov 04, 2007 06:07pm | #14

   First off, it's not solid wood. Secondly, each ply is placed 90 degrees to the layer above it. Your passes should be only one layer deep. Yes it will take a few passes. The reason for the wandering of the router is you have not sandwiched it between TWO guides. When you do this it keeps the router in place whether you go right to left or left to right . Plus sand and clean between cuts to get rid of any dust or debris.

2. 
   infinity | Nov 01, 2007 04:40pm | #3

   Hello,

   Please let us know the part # of the router bit you rec'd. It sounds odd that the cutter did not make a smooth cut. We'll check into it right away and replace the bit if it is in any way defective.

   Thank you,
   David Venditto
   Infinity Cutting Tools
   [email protected]

1. 
   Disputantum | Nov 01, 2007 10:30pm | #8

   I sent you an email with the info, Dave.ne sutor ultra crepidam

3. 
   mudman | Nov 01, 2007 05:32pm | #5

   I am going to throw my two cents in here knowing that there will be many who dissagree. Routers are not great tools for dados or grooves. They cut slow, dull fast, and leave fuzz on most materials. I have used some of the most sophisticated tooling on the market on $100,000 CNC machines and no routerbit can come close to a good Dado set.

   So you do have to lean on a router when cutting dados much more than when cutting a profile. The cut should be smooth, but expect fuzz on the cross grain plies in most plywood. The bits perform much better when sharp and they dull fast, not a problem for most hobby wwers, but a real drag if you use them a lot.

   Dont feel slighted by recieving the Infinity bit. They make excelent tooling, maybe better than Jaseda.

   Pardon my spelling,

   Mike

   Make sure that your next project is beyond your skill and requires tools you don't have. You won't regret it.

1. 
   WillGeorge | Nov 04, 2007 05:28pm | #12

   Routers are not great tools for dados or grooves.Geee. I just fainted! I LOVE my routers!OK.. SO I do not use any Dado set much less a 'good' one. Pain in the butt to set up and I'm finished with my router before I could have set that Dado blade up..Just my opinion..Fuzz? Gee.. wipe it off with a green 3M pad!EDIT: I forgot to say.. I use my routers everyday and V shaped bits can be a bummer.. I try to avoid them.. "Could be the operator though'.. All my 'good' bits are Whitesides.. Never used others except my L'Cheepos (which work OK for most things). I'm sure Infinity Cutting Tools makes a better than 'good' product.. I just like Whiteside.. Hell, we all have our hangups!

   Edited 11/4/2007 9:37 am by WillGeorge

1. 
   mudman | Nov 05, 2007 05:03am | #15

   I have made a lot of dados with a router also. I too used to look at setting up the Dado set as a PITA. Now I would guess that I could set up the TS for a dado as fast as I could rig a jig to cut a dado.

   One big factor for me is that if I am cutting one dado I am almost certaintly going to cut 10 to 50 or more just like it. So it posibly longer set up is off set.

   I would still use the router for stopped dados, but I cant remember the last time I did it. You are right the fuzz does come right off with a swipe of 150 grit sand paper. Pardon my spelling,

   Mike

   Make sure that your next project is beyond your skill and requires tools you don't have. You won't regret it.

1. 
   Disputantum | Nov 05, 2007 06:00am | #16

   Is Sgian Dubh still around? He'd say that dado sets are strictly verboten in Europe, and that he doesn't do full-width dadoes anyway, but tongue and groove with the router.I always meant to ask him how he did those wacky dovetails which I could probably use now.

   Edited 11/4/2007 10:03 pm ET by Disputantum

1. 
   mudman | Nov 05, 2007 07:13pm | #17

   Thats true, there is a some sort of ban on dado capable saws being sold. However I am sure that the large shops are not relying on routers for production work.Pardon my spelling,

   Mike

   Make sure that your next project is beyond your skill and requires tools you don't have. You won't regret it.