How would you groove 3/4″ edge banding for a desk top? I’ve routed a 1/2″ tongue around a 1-1/2″ thick desktop made of mdf with 1/4″ mahog ply. The edge is solid mahog. I’m set up to run the edge pieces over the router table using a 1/4″ carbide 2-fluted straight bit. I’ll use a feather board to keep the pieces against the fence, but I’m not sure I want to use a feather board on top, because the piece is trapped on the bit. The edge pieces are about 36″ by 60″. Is this the best way? I don’t have a table saw. The edging is currently about 3/4 x 2″. Thanks, Todd
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Replies
This may be a bad time to bring this up, but I would rout the groove in the MDF, and the tongue on the edging--the solid wood tongue will be a lot stronger than an MDF tongue. But either way...an option for cutting the groove is to use a slotting bit: it's a little disk with two or three teeth attached to an arobor so it cuts a slot parallel to the router table base. You'll get a lot less burning. Nick
Todd,
I agree with Nick, for a tongue and groove edge banding, the edge band should have the tounge. It's still not too late; use a flush trim bit to remove the tonque on the MDF, then a slotting bit to route the groove, the over all dimension won't change. Then mill out the tounge on the edge band, either on the table saw or router table. FWIW.
Dano
I knew I should have asked about this before I rabbeted so many tongues. I also found out what happens when you make the second pass on a groove while feeding in the wrong direction. Zoom! That test piece flew right into a dropcloth I had hanging for dust protection. Freaked me out. The initial groove went pretty well, if noisy, but I didn't think through the second cut well enough.
Now, as to reversing the process, it seems I would lose dimension. The top would be reduced, and the edge would remain the same. Also, less of the edge would be showing from the top. I could groove both and use a spline I suppose, but I'm leery of using a slot cutter on my 1/4" collet router. I thought those usually required the 1/2". I also don't relish the idea of standing the top on edge and trying to groove with a straight bit. I suppose I'll have to stand it on edge when flush trimming later, but grooving would require a good jig.
I'm inclined to continue with the method I started. The tongue is 3/8 deep and 1/2 wide, which I hope would be strong enough when glued to a chunk of solid mahogany. The overall thickness is 1-1/2, so there's a lot of coverage. I look forward to more feedback. Thanks, Todd
Todd,
No, you won't loose dimesion by trimming off the tonque, it's "hidden" right? When milling out the edge banding, you allow for the tongue just like you did for the table top.
As to your comfort level, use a guide and take lighter cuts in trimming off the tongue, same approch can be used for cutting the groove. Most important though, at this point, do what you are comfortable with....and chalk it up as a lesson learned.
Dano"Form and Function are One" - Frank L. Wright
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