I have an old 3 HP 1-phase Powermatic 66 – I think from the late 60’s. It runs very well. However, the cord from the switch to the motor is in bad shape and I’d like to replace it. Opening the switch and the wire cover on the motor, I see that the grounding wire has been snipped at both ends. The ground on the cord from the outlet is attached to the switch box.
There is no grounding wire coming out of the motor. Will it be sufficient to ground just the switch box? The switch box is metal, and it is mounted on a metal plate, which in turn mounts on the cabinet.
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Replies
You might also try posting this query on Breaktime; there are a good number of electricians over there who can give you ####quick definitive answer.
You should mention that you are running the saw on a 220v circuit, which I assume you are.
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"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
The motor should be grounded, there is usually a small screw inside of the motor's wiring box, with no other obvious use, for the ground wire to attach to. If there is no screw available then you can use the cover screws of the box. Put a small crimped on terminal on the wire so that it will stay solidly under the screw head, the stranded copper wire by itself doesn't work well.
Inside of the magnetic switch the ground wire to the motor should go onto the same terminal that the incoming ground wire is attached to.
John White, Shop Manager, Fine Woodworking Magazine
There is no grounding screw in the wiring box, but I can use a cover screw as you suggest, or add a new self-tapping screw to the box. Also, there is no grounding terminal on the switch - just a self-tapping screw through the switch box. Is that adequate, or should I consider buying a new switch with an integrated grounding terminal?
Thanks for the help.
Grounding screws are nothing fancy, the self tapping screw in the switch box is adequate. The same applies to the motor connection, just as long as you have a good electrical connection to the metal housing it doesn't matter what the actual hardware is.
John W.
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