Replies

1. 
   ABenker | Sep 10, 2002 10:04pm | #1

   Good for you! As an avid hunter and woodworker I too am dismayed at the atrocities that gun maker subject walnut to.  I suppose the high gloss finish it is a bit more durable for the average user. I have no idea what would take it off, but I would assume it is some type of urethane. I too have a A-Bolt that I feel would look much better with a oiled stock, but I'm not a brave as you. Keep me posted as to how it turns out.

   Aaron

2. 
   RW | Sep 15, 2002 09:42pm | #2

   Might try a slow working stripper to get the stuff off.  Steering away from the hot stuff on a nice piece of wood seems prudent. Would suspect that if all else fails, acetone is pretty good at taking off about anything and yes, that's a contradiction since acetone is pretty hot, but you could pad it rather than leave it on the wood for twenty minutes. Since I've finished a hoop of gunstocks, I might also suggest going for a polymerized tung oil which will hold up better than straight tung.

   If you get to where you've hit wood and exposed pores (which would be bad if you damaged the checkering) you can re-fill the area by rubbing the tung oil with 400 grit to make a little slurry of sawdust and oil and packing it into the pores with cardboard. Let it dry, sand it down lightly, and put the oil on over it. That's something of a "traditional" approach in gun work.

   In the event you're going to want to glass bed things, now might be a great time before you try to redo a finish.

1. 
   bill_1010 | Sep 16, 2002 04:14am | #3

   thanks for the tips :) ill about to tackle that project soon. When you mean slow stripper, im assuming not that mchloride style.  Are you talking about hose "enviornmental friendly) stuff or what?!?! Im not much a refinisher as I am a finisher.  TIA

   Edited 9/15/2002 9:23:16 PM ET by BILL_1010

3. 
   PlaneWood | Sep 16, 2002 04:49pm | #4

   Bill -

   Before removing the finish, why not try buffing it down with 0000 steel wool then with a soft cotton cloth.  This should give it a warmer semi-gloss look.   When using the steel wool, follow the grain.  I figure there would be nothing to lose trying this other than a little time.  After buffing with a cotton cloth, then try TreWax furniture wax (Ace Hardware) to give it a non slip surface.

   If you do strip and use Tung oil, then consider using Polymerized Tung Oil.  This is Tung Oil that has been boiled then mixed about 50% with mineral spirits.  This will give a harder finish (and more glossy) then regular tung oil.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy
   PlaneWood

4. 
   luna3 | Sep 29, 2002 01:40pm | #5

   Bill, I overhauled my Ithaca 12 gauge two years back. The finish was some sort of catalyzed lacquer (sp?). The stuff was hard! It would soften with stripper but had to scrape it off. Used a tooth brush over the checkering. Slow going but I finally got it off. After getting all the dings and scratches, final sand w/400, then used low gloss tung oil, rubbing w/600. Looks fantastic! Has held up excellent also.