Replies

1. 
   gmerrill | Mar 05, 2009 04:34am | #1

   I have always sanded down to at least 220.  At times I've gone down to 400 or so.  However, to get a glassy smoothe finish I have always found it necessary to fill the grain with paste wood filler (unless you want to put a French finish on it :-).  After the paste wood filler, of course you need to sand again.  I've also used crocus cloth for final sanding, but perhaps that's excessive.

1. 
   doodabug | Mar 06, 2009 01:52am | #5

   It will be used in the field and scratched by brush, not a show gun. Still go to 220?

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Mar 05, 2009 05:22am | #2

   What do you intend for top coat on the stock?  Is it to be glossy or have an in-the-wood "oiled" finish appearance. 

1. 
   gmerrill | Mar 05, 2009 05:29am | #3

   For myself, I have never finished/refinished a gunstock with anything other than a boiled linseed oil finish, then waxed.  It's largely a matter of taste, of course, together with the use to which the gun will be put.  That stock looks suspiciously like a target stock to me, and I don't see any checkering on it (which is a bit of a pain with an oil finish) in which case I'd go with a hand-rubbed oil finish.  Again, mostlly a matter of taste.

1. 
   gmerrill | Mar 05, 2009 05:37am | #4

   Uh, a couple of other things, now that I'm looking at the stock again and thinking about things.  I wouldn't begin to finish it until I'd at least done most of the major work of roughing in the action and barrel.  Otherwise, the chance of dinging your nice finish is pretty high.

   If it's for a target rifle, you'll almost certainly want to free-float the barrel (at least starting an inch or two in front of the action) and glass- or epoxy-bed the action.  So you'll need to be sure you've removed enough wood in the barrel channel and in the action and tang areas for the glass/epoxy bedding.  THEN do final sanding and finishing.

   And then there's the recoil pad.  You want to install that and sand it down to the stock surface prior to finishing.

   I think that's about it.

2. 
   doodabug | Mar 06, 2009 01:53am | #6

   I think it will be Tru oil.

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Mar 06, 2009 03:53am | #7

   I refinished a gunstock for a friend once, had never done it B4.  I used Tru Oil also and wiped on so many coats I lost count after 11.  He took it hunting once and came back and there were spots all over it where the finish had been nicked/scratched off.  I obviously did something wrong but don't know what.

   The stock was made of birch, which I'm told is common.  Not sure what wood you used.

   I then found out that the local gunsmith uses Tru Oil, but he slathers it on with his hands and lets it dry for a long time.

   A gentleman who goes by danmart posts in here and he makes some really beautiful long rifles so maybe he might pop in with some suggestions for you.  Please let us know how yours turns out.

   Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

1. 
   Tony Z | Mar 06, 2009 04:04am | #8

   Bob,

   I used Tru-oil on the first gunstock I finished and had excellent results.  The stock was birch (.22 rifle) and I raised the grain first but did not sand out the fuzz.  Saved that for the "slathered" coat of Tru-oil rubbed in with 0000 steel woold wet.  About a dozen coats later, I was done.  That was about thirty years ago and the stock still looks good.

   T.Z.

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Mar 06, 2009 04:38am | #9

   Thanks Tony,

   I'll try that the next time.  Sounds like this is one application where more thin coats isn't what you want?  Even after the slather coat you put on a dozen more?  Did you steel wool all of them?

   Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

2. 
   doodabug | Mar 07, 2009 02:11am | #13

   I doubt you did anything wrong,your guy was probably a bit of a abuser like mine is.

   The stock is White oak and I am sure it will get nicked up to.

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Mar 06, 2009 05:34am | #10

   Tru Oil is a very traditional gun stock finish and should work well.  It is a polymerized linseed oil, which does allow it to cure harder, and quicker, than boiled linseed oil.  Still, you don't want to try to build up a thick varnish like film,it still should look like an oil finish.   The whole deal with oil finishes is that when they come in beat up from the field, first you clean the barrel and action, and then you can restore the stock with an easy wipe down of another very thin coat.

1. 
   doodabug | Mar 07, 2009 02:13am | #14

   Good info, I will give him the left over oil Thanks

3. 
   gmerrill | Mar 06, 2009 05:39am | #11

   Just a couple of final comments ...

   Tru oil is good stuff.  Basically it is boiled linseed oil cut with a solvent such as turpentine to enhance absorbancy and shorten drying time.  Of course, you pay a huge premium for getting that in a little bottle of True oil.  But if you're only doing it once, it is probably worth it.  With an oil finish, you get out of it what you put into it.  It needs significant drying time between coats, and it needs to be wiped of thoroughly (say with paper towels) after you let is set for 15 minutes or so -- or you'll end up with a gummy mess that will never dry.  Then let it dry for at least a couple of days (depending on humidity).  You can't rush it.  If you "slather on" any oil finish, you'll regret it.  Once it's really dry and rubbed down, wax it with several coats of a good paste wax.

   That stock looks awfully big and heavy for a field gun:  very thick and very long in the forearm.  It looks a lot like the stock on my 6.5x55 Swedish Mauser (Springfield action) target rifle.  I don't know if you made it yourself or did some final shaping from a purchased roughed out blank.  But unless it's planned use is a varmint rifle where it's used from prone position and not carried around much, I suspect whoever has it is going to get pretty tired of lugging that weight around.  But if that's the plan, you should add some sling swivels to it.  They'll be needed.  The magazine well looks very rough in the pictures -- which implies that the action hasn't been fitted to it nor the barrel channel reamed out to free-float the barrel.  Finishing it before that is done is inviting trouble and having to refinish at a later time.  But hey, this is how we all learn to do these things.

   Good luck.

    

1. 
   doodabug | Mar 07, 2009 02:25am | #15

   The picture makes it look fat for some reason, I used calipers all over it to get it same size as original and doesn't seem to feel heavier than original.

   He says it is his rabbit gun.

   not a purchase, made from a White Oak piece 1 7/8 x 7

   
1. 
   danmart | Mar 07, 2009 02:46am | #16

   Don't know which style you are working up. I don't use Tru oil and I work mainly in maple and walnut and on certain occasions I get a piece of curly birch.

   These woods tend to be a bit more dense than what you are using here. My stocks generally start out 10/4 or 12/4 if I use "cast off" on the butt and carve a full check piece section.

   My finish is good old waterlox over  shellac as a sealer. After 28 years, I haven't had a finish go bad with that recipe. Very easy to repair.

   I have used linseed oil and other oil varnishes and they work. Lots more rubbing and work. After 30 hours of carving, I don't like cleaning details with a tooth brush to get rid of sticky oils and residue. Not for me.

   A couple photos of a half stock and a longrifle with the forestock "rolled over" to a feather edge as it joins the barrel side. It helps make the stock look thinner and lighter. Just makes the wood look like its wrapped around the barrel. I guess it is when you think of it.

   dan

    

   Edited 3/6/2009 6:47 pm ET by danmart

   Edited 3/6/2009 6:49 pm ET by danmart

   
2. 
   doodabug | Mar 14, 2009 06:03pm | #28

   I did go back and roll over the edges but not near as fine as yours is.

   Very nice work you did there.

3. 
   Ray | Mar 06, 2009 07:22am | #12

   If you live in a damp climate, seal the inner surfaces too.  I use a wipe-on poly for that application.

4. 
   doodabug | Mar 13, 2009 01:01am | #17

   A couple pictures of the old and the new.

   I only have two coats of tru oil on the new so far.

   Feel free to criticize.

   
1. 
   SheriDi | Mar 13, 2009 07:09am | #18

   Looks beautiful!  I just came into possession of a rifle that has an awful looking stock, and was contemplating replacing it with one of my own making. 

   I've never done any woodworking like that so was thinking that I would probably cut a blank out of thick stock, and then do the rest by hand.  Is that about how it goes?  If so what sorts of hand tools did you use?

   Thanks,

   Sheri

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Mar 13, 2009 01:04pm | #19

   Sheri,

   I've not made a gunstock from scratch but I have made a few cabriole legs.  I started by cutting out a rough blank on the bandsaw, rough shaped it with drawknives, fine tuned the shape with a spokeshave, rasps, files and sandpaper.

   I would think these tools would work well for a gunstock too.

   Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

1. 
   SheriDi | Mar 13, 2009 05:07pm | #20

   Thanks Bob.  This kind of woodworking intimidates me as it seems to be a bit like sculpting which requires a little artistic ability.  I have ZERO artistic ability, but think I will give it a try anyway.

   Sheri

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Mar 14, 2009 03:19am | #26

   Sheri,

   No artistic ability?  Go for it, you just might surprise yourself.

   I can't draw stickfigures for cryin out loud.  The wife, on the other hand can look at something and sketch it almost perfectly and is even better when improvising.  Not that I'm in any way prejudice.  :-)

   A word of caution may be in order however - shaping/carving can get addictive.  On the plus side it gives you a real sense of accomplishment.

   Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

2. 
   doodabug | Mar 14, 2009 12:38am | #21

   Thanks, It,s about how I did it. The barrel groove is the hardest part because it is tapered. I did that first while it was a large blank.

   I used a thickness planer, bandsaw, sanders,and a hand plane on it. Some forstner bits and a mortising machine.

5. 
   doodabug | Mar 14, 2009 12:42am | #22

   Finished it up and am proud of myself even though it isn't perfect.

   
1. 
   Shoemaker1 | Mar 14, 2009 12:54am | #23

   Looks pretty Spanky!!
   The action on the rifle looks familier.
   Now just watch out you 'wascly wabbits.

1. 
   doodabug | Mar 14, 2009 01:07am | #24

   Thanks

2. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Mar 14, 2009 03:10am | #25

   Dood,

   Wow, that came out really nice.  Great job.

   Was it difficult fitting the butt plate and the barrel?

   Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

1. 
   doodabug | Mar 14, 2009 05:55pm | #27

   Thanks. Those were the two hardest things for me to do. the rest of it was pretty easy to do.