Replies

1. 
   joinerswork | Aug 16, 2011 09:40am | #1

   -B

   I'm not familiar with SeaFin, but would suggest that any hardening oil would be fine on a gunstock.  Even a gun used hard in the field will get a wipe down after being brought in out of the rain/snow.  Any of the penetrating oil finishes on the market are relatively durable, and in case of dings or scrapes across rocks or fence wire, repairable by sanding and overcoating.

   Film finishes, like varnishes or lacquers are more difficult to repair/touch up if damaged.

   I've used Minwax Antique Oil, Formby's Tung Oil Finish, and Polyurethane varnish on various gunstocks.  All are durable enough to turn water if wetted in the field.  In retrospect, I like the looks of the poly the least.  I wanted a glossy, filled pore film, and that's what I got, the reality did not match my expectations.  The prettiest finish I have put on a stock is shellac on a reproduction Colt 1860 Army that I re-gripped with crotch walnut.  I figure that watermarks will not be a problem, as it will never get wet in its case ;-), but wonder about the effects of  cleaning solvents over time ...

   Ray

1. 
   Wrongsyde | Aug 18, 2011 03:27pm | #2

   Ray,

   Thanks for the input. I may try a few samples of the SeaFin on some scrap wood before i make up my mind. I will for sure chase an oil finish rather than a film finish... seen too many old cheap gunstocks that look HORRIBLE with a few scratches, dings, peeling etc, plus i love the feel of a well done oil finish. I'm not afraid of the work involved in doing it right... seen several suggestions to push it to 30+  coats with at least a day between each to dry. If worse comes to worse I can recruit my family to help oil and buff. =)

   One thing I that impressed me with the SeaFin was its hardening. I used it on pretty, but soft, cedar in my boat. The oil is the thinnest I've ever used, though that is amongst a fairly limited number of products, and it drew into the wood very well. Took more coats of course, but it seemed to stabilize that cedar up to a quarter inch deep on end grain. Plus as I said, it held color and surface through some pretty extreme weather abuse. It's not cheap, I think around $30 a quart, but I'm doing a gunstock with it, not a whole boat. Will be cheaper than buying gunstock oils in the half-cup bottles anyway.

   -B

2. 
   GretchenTHE FIRST | Aug 19, 2011 08:00am | #3

   I will say (again) I have no first hand experience in this, but from reading this board and others for ages, have seen a lot of ideas. I think in a question about tool handles one time, it was suggested to immerse the wood handles in boiled linseed oil and just let it absorb all it would. I wonder if that would work for this application. Don't know "what" oil would be best.  It might have been Howie who suggested this long ago.

   I agree about film finishes probably being worthless.

   Good luck.

3. 
   hammer1 | Aug 20, 2011 07:32am | #4

   I can't comment on the two finishes you asked about but thought you might like to look at some fine scatter guns for inspiration.

   http://connecticutshotgun.com/csmc/PhotoGallery/galazan/album/index.html

1. 
   Wrongsyde | Aug 20, 2011 10:44pm | #5

   Wow... that is a stunning gallery. Incredible work by a master. In comparison to that, my stock will look a lot more like your signature tagline. I'll bet that guy doesn't use WD40 for finish. =)

4. 
   Wrongsyde | Aug 20, 2011 11:24pm | #6

   I've done a little more reading. Birchwood Casey's TruOil is a polymerized linseed oil. Apparently it drys to a very thin film that builds well and can be buffed to a decent shine.

   This came from Daly's website on SeaFin Ship n Shore (which was the product I used before.)

   "

   Daly’s SeaFin Ship `N Shore is a deeply penetrating wood waterproofing sealer.  As it

   penetrates, SeaFin Ship `N Shore becomes an integral part of the cell structure, harden-

   ing the wood from 15% to 25%.  SeaFin Ship `N Shore is practically colorless, odorless

   and non-toxic.  Does not raise the grain and because of deep penetration, leaves no

   surface film to chip, crack, chalk, blister or peel.  SeaFin Ship `N Shore is an excellent

   conditioner for wood surfaces such as decks, handrails, cabins, hulls, masts and canvas

   or any area where paint or varnish is to be used. "

   Listed in the specs were the ingredients "Resin, Rosin, and Oil Modified Urethane," whatever that is. =) So I sent off an email to Daly's asking about its use and compatibilites.  We'll see what they have to say.

   I'm thinking it would be great to have that significant hardening factor but I also want some build and buff... and certainly don't want oil coats sloughing off of this stuff.

5. 
   Unpastor | Oct 06, 2020 02:17pm | #7

   I used truoil on my wormy chestnut coffee table and it looks wonderful. I also recoated an end table ( oak) and found it to be outstanding on it as well. They both had been previously coated with a polyurethane coating so one coat was sufficient. I've used it on several gun stocks and never had to use more than one coat. Other men told me about using several applications but that's never been the case for me; I have no idea why that is. God bless, I wish you well.

6. 
   user7596380 | Oct 06, 2020 05:35pm | #8

   Well, "Wrong ... ", from your 6th comment, "I think 'e's got it". A coat of your deeply penetrating seafaring sealer followed by a coat or three of Birchwood Casey True Oil. I assume the Winchester "m12" you mention is a civilian version of their "Trench Sweeper" of WW I fame - the Model 12 pump shotgun with a two piece stock; butt and fore end. If so, and you're going to put your prized possession to work, especially in a duck blind during weather only fit for waterfowl, I'd suggest also using your penetrating finish on the end grain of the butt stock and the inside of the fore end as extra protection.