*
I’m a pretty accomplished woodworker but have never done half dovertails in case work before before. Normally I do a stepped Dado. I’m going to be doing some case work for a couple of Heirloom dressers and what these to come out correct.
On the rail going across that can be setup on the router table so I’m pretty confident of getting the setup tweaked in and being able to cut all of the rail ends consistently.
On the case it looks like I have to do two operations: Plow the dado groove for the stretchers Front and back, and then on the face side cut the dovetails a few inches into the case side to match the rail detail. So it looks like a couple of operations with the router and a flat clamp to serve as the router guide. So I’m going to have to do several of these in both dressers.
So in general what is the proper technique and sequence for doing these? Should I make some type of jig to insure that they all come out the same. Any pitfalls and good practices?
Normally I’m a prefectionist! Are these easier than they look and don’t really have to be held to close fits as long as they are all the same?
Thanks,
Ray
Replies
*
Since reading "Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking--Book 1" I've parked my router and started cutting my dovetails with hand tools. After practicing on some soft pine, I've become quite adept at making tight fitting dovetails. While not as fast as the router, it is quite a useful skill to have in your bag of tricks. Tage Frid makes this easy, and he discusses router techniques too. Read the book!
*Thanks Richard, but god not another woodworking book. These would have to be cut into the side of the case and I think that is tough at best.Still looking for someone out there who has done these with router and whatever jig and can give some good advise. Remember they are only penetrating 2 inches into the case, not the whole width.Thanks,Ray
*You left a similar message in the main forum in a discussion on tapered sliding dovetails created by Michael Devenish Mears. Go to my response there, Post no. 2 Make a similar jig but adapt it to suit. Look at the left hand drawing and ignore the right hand one, and make a short slot at both ends of the jig instead of one long one. The jig fits snugly over the width of your cabinet side. You could cut a wider slot, say 28 mm, and make a 3 mm timber spacer that suits the 25 mm guide bush. Set up two identical routers, one with a straight cutter, and the other with a dovetail cutter. Fit the spacer one side of the slot and use the straight cutter to cut the trench. Switch the spacer to the other side of the slot and finish the trench with the dovetail cutter. This is a lot to remember but perfectly do-able.Alternatively, it would be easier just to make the slot in the jig just the right size for the guide bush as I drew it, and dovetail both sides of the trench. Cut the dovetails for the ends of the rails on wide boards, and rip narrower pieces out of this to the width you need.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled