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before i go out and build a vacuum press i have decided to try out hammer veneering. i have done lots of veneering, but none with hide glue. i would like to learn a bit more before i veneer some remaining parts a big project that i’m working on. just wondering a few things, first of all, how many of you guys put glue on BOTH the veneer and the substrate. is this really necessary or can i get away with only applying glue on the substrate (i’ve heard arguments for both ways). secondly, what is the largest panel you would recommend veneering with a veneer hammer, i know it will work well on small pieces, but what about something like a 2′ X 5’6″ door on a cabinet. would glue with decent holding ability gel up too fast, would i be able to get good results if i added urea or some other retarder. if you guys have some good tips i’d love to hear them.
thanks in advance
andrew
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I have hammer veneered pieces as large as a sideboard top (26”x 70”). I apply the glue only to the substrate. If the substrate is a soft or porous wood, I will apply a thinned coat of hide glue the day before I veneer. I dampen the face of the veneer right before I set it into the glue, so it does not curl when it hits the glue. On large pieces this dampening can cause problems, so I place the veneer in the glue, hit it with the iron to get it good and stuck, and then dampen the face and reheat and hammer it. The trick to hammer veneering is getting the glue the right consistency, and being patient. If it is to thin, well then, of course it won’t bond, but if it is to thick, it will be very difficult to “push” the glue. The glue should run off the brush in a steady stream, if its too thick, it comes off in drops, and if too thin, the stream breaks up. Patience comes into play, when you have a spot that won’t adhere, if you wait a few minutes, reheat and hammer some more, 99% of the time the spot will work out. I have heard that you can put a small veneer nail through a piece of scrap to hold down stubborn spots, but I use some lead blocks I have. Don’t add anything to slow the set of the glue, because it is the quick set time that makes hammer veneering possible. An iron, set on low will re liquefy the glue, and allow you to work on pieces of any size. The iron must not be hot enough to generate steam, as this will stretch the veneer and cause shrinkage cracks. Never hammer across the grain, because this will also, stretch the veneer. I have use hammer veneering to make pattern matches (a lowboy top) but it wasn’t easy and I don’t recommend it, as the potential for shrinkage it too great. For these types of jobs, I have a crude press I made from cambered ash bearers and threaded rod. I like to hammer veneer, but it can be tough work, but it goes quickly. I hammer veneered a card table apron yesterday in less than 20 minutes, something that would have taken far longer with a press.You can hammer veneer crotch veneer, but that takes some pratice.
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