Corner cabs and lazy susans present a little wrinkle, with inside corner edges that cannot be machine-edgebanded.
Using the same unglued for-machine-application PVC woodgrain that will be used everywhere else, share with me your methods (glue, tools, technique) for getting this little job done right.
Replies
Solvent-based contact cement, then trim the banding using a sharp plane iron by hand. The heavier the plane iron the better.
David Ring
http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e
Actually cutting the corners presents more of a problem than actually edgebanding....
sharing my tips, I rough cut it to approx size, and finish the cuts.
Ya, this tool junky has two hacksaws for just that purpose. One has the blade angled (using the play in the mountings) so that when I rest the flat frame (not a square tubular frame or round frame) on the cut face, I finish the cut on one side, whilst the other hacksaw has a tilt the other way for the other side of the corner. Any slight chips in MCP are easily cured with matching seamfil.
Hacksaw frames you can pick up for a buck or two at garage sales.
Hey, try the hacksaw thing on scrap first til you get the hang of it, cause re-cutting corner pieces is not only a pita, but wastes anear a half sheet of stock..
Cut on the push stroke only, from the face side, slide it clear (don't back it out!) and take another stroke. Maybe it takes a stroke or four with a file to tidy it up.
Thinner edgebanding is applied with a heat gun cranked up and pressed on with a small granite ctop sample faced with leather.
I do have one of the small "tacking irons" to do the same job. It works well too.
3mm stuff I'd be applying with weldbond and clamps, as it is not a likely occurance, and even if it was, none of the insturments I've seen would do the corner thing anyway.
Problems holding the piece in place? sometime ago some other tauntonian shared a tip of using the smaller jorgenson spring clamps to assist in alignment. That works like a charm.
Holding the workpiece? I have a few stanley (is it 901?) angle vices that are clampable to the edge of my assembly table, and have a 2x4 with dowels in it that I can set to various positions on the legs. this lets me work at a convenient height.
Of course you know it's not only the base, but also the top and shelf that you gotta do if you ain't using the lazy susan option.
regards...and don't burn yer fingers.
Eric
in cowtown
Look into Fastcap's peel-and-stick PVC edgebanding. The adhesive is remarkably strong.
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