Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Feb 19, 2010 01:49pm | #1

   This is a carving project, likely aided with  shaped scrapers and/or scratch beader.   

2. 
   joinerswork | Feb 19, 2010 02:07pm | #2

   joe,

   Here's how I do it:

   First of all, work a straight run of molding long enough for the returns (case ends) using molding planes.

   1-Draw the molding  shape and saw it out. Clean up the edges, and screw the mold to a backing board (scrap) that can in turn be clamped or screwed to the top of your bench.

   2-Using a compass or just a pencil and your fingers as a marking guage, draw the width of molding elements-like quarter rounds, beads- to establish location of  fillets parallel to the edges of the mold; and then their depth, referenced from top or bottom side.  You'll have a series of lines, parallel to the edges and faces of the mold.

   3- chop down and establish with router plane, or a vee chisel and combination square, the depth of the fillets, top of bead elements, etc. The mold will look like it is a series of steps.

   4-Using carving tools of appropriate shape, carve the elements, rounding over the qtr rds, and beads, scooping out the coves.  It is helpful to have a "negative" templet of sheet metal, traced from the end of one of the sticks of straight molding, to check your progress (can even be used to scrape problem areas), but don't get too obsessive, it just has to look like a match to the straight mold, not match exactly, for its whole curved length.  The critical area is the end where the curved mold will end up mitered to the straight run, and minor discrepancies can be fudged to match after the pieces are applied to the case.

   5-Scrape and sand as required.

   6-Position on case, and mark the location of the miter.  I like to clamp the molding against the fence of the mitersaw to keep it stable while sawing.

   Ray 

1. 
   Eef | Feb 19, 2010 03:17pm | #3

   hey ray,

   man, i love it when you talk like that!   you ever think about posting some instructional-type videos and the like?  ...publishing a book?

   eef

1. 
   joinerswork | Feb 20, 2010 09:20am | #6

   eef,

   I'm glad you were entertained.   I wrote some articles a while back.  Haven't had the urge to do so of late.

   Ray

2. 
   londonjoe40 | Feb 19, 2010 05:18pm | #4

   Thanks Ray. The mystery is solved. So you believe that using a router plane and carving tools is better than using a scratch stock jig? I shall have to record this information posterity.

   Joe

1. 
   Westchester | Feb 19, 2010 05:46pm | #5

   You will still need the scratch stock jig as the last shaping detail -

   SA

2. 
   joinerswork | Feb 20, 2010 09:26am | #7

   joe,

   Other than the templet I mentioned, which I sometimes use to scrape (more often I use a gooseneck scraper ) , I don't use a scratch stock for large moldings like this.  Scratch stocks seem to work better for me in making up shallow shapes. Mirror frame molding, chair legs,, things like that.

   But I don't pretent to be the last word on this or any other topic.  Your mileage may vary.

   Ray