Replies

1. 
   saschafer | Nov 05, 2007 06:34pm | #1

   In a nutshell:

   Blade adjustment - This sets the depth of cut. Advance the blade for a thicker shaving, retract it for a thinner one. Because of backlash in the mechanism, it's usually best for the final adjustment to be in the "go deeper" direction. So, if the cut is too deep and you want to make it shallower, retract the blade past the point you want to get to, and then advance it back to that point.

   Frog adjustment - This sets the size of the opening ahead of the blade, the "mouth." (There are numerous mechanisms for setting the mouth opening, depending on the design of the plane. Frog adjustment is just one way.) Ideally, you want the opening as small as practical, but not too small. It's too small when the shavings get stuck. As you might imagine, you need a wider mouth when taking a thicker shaving than you do when taking a thin one.

   Blade lateral adjustment - This tilts the blade from side to side, allowing you to fine-tune the exposure of the cutting edge below the sole of the plane. What you're aiming for is an even cut across the width of the blade. If all the cutting is happening on the right side, you need to tilt the blade to the left, and vice versa.

   Chip breaker location - Right behind the cutting edge, not more than 1/32" or so. (Some people say that you should move it further back when taking thick shavings, but I haven't really noticed any difference, and you do want it close to the cutting edge for fine cuts.) In addition to the position, the fit of the chip breaker to the blade needs to be good. The leading edge of the chip breaker should meet the blade in a precise, even line. If it's rough, or if there are gaps, you need to grind the chip breaker until it's cleaned up. Otherwise, shavings will get caught between the blade and the chip breaker, which is a royal pain.

   That's just the basics, and we haven't even discussed sharpening the blade, flattening the sole, etc. There is a wealth of information available out there. Here's a starting point: http://www.hocktools.com/sharpen.htm.

   -Steve

    

    

1. 
   crispy476 | Nov 05, 2007 06:57pm | #3

   Steve,

   Thanks for the response.  That was the information that I was looking for.  I have began to work on sharpening these blades and tuning my planes based off of the article form FWW.  I do have a sharpening / honing gauge from Veritas  It has worked great for my chisel, I have tried on the planes but since I bought these off ebay I have found that the angle on the blade is all screwed up.  So currently I am planning on replacing the blades with a hock and did not think about the chipbreakers until I read the link you sent me, but now that will be on the order at the same time as the blades.

   How much of a cut are you looking for for each of my planes.  I have a #4, #5, and #8.  Just a range. 

   I guess the frog is adjusted with the blade in place or off?

   Also, my #5 does not have the frog adjustment screw nor a place for it at the base of the frog.

   you familiar with this?

   Chris  

1. 
   saschafer | Nov 05, 2007 08:43pm | #4

   "How much of a cut are you looking for for each of my planes.  I have a #4, #5, and #8.  Just a range."

   There's a series of videos hosted by Philip Lowe that are available on this site (they may or may not require a subscription--having a subscription myself, I've never figured out if there is a way to determine what content is available freely and what isn't). Anyway, they should give you more information, particularly in terms of not only the depth of cut but the amount of camber you might want to put on the edge of the blade. But briefly:

   #4: A smoothing plane, used for final smoothing. Set it for a fine cut and a very slight camber (to prevent the corners of the plane from digging in and leaving ridges).

   #5: A jack plane. A good all-around workhorse. I think cambering is optional on this one, because it depends on what you're going to use it for. If you want to use it for rough stock removal, put a mild camber on it; if you're going to use it with a shooting board, keep the blade straight.

   #8: A jointer plane, used for truing up surfaces and especially edges. Whether or not such a plane should be cambered is a topic that some will discuss with religious fervor. I keep my #7C straight, but I also don't use it that much--I mostly joint edges on a (power) jointer.

   "I guess the frog is adjusted with the blade in place or off?"

   That depends on the plane. Most planes being made these days have adjustment mechanisms that can be reached with the blade in place, but if your plane doesn't have one, then you have to take the blade off. Which in turn makes adjustment a more lengthy trial-and-error process. Which is a pain.

   "Also, my #5 does not have the frog adjustment screw nor a place for it at the base of the frog."

   Take the blade off. Is the frog held in place with a couple of screws? If so, that's the adjustment mechanism (see Frog adjustment, painful). On some inexpensive planes, the frog is cast as a single piece with the body. With those planes, the mouth opening is not adjustable at all, and you have to live with what's there (which is usually too big for fine cuts, but serviceable for rough work).

   -Steve

    

2. 
   dherzig | Nov 05, 2007 06:48pm | #2

   Garret Hack's book Hand Planes is a great resource on all aspects of hand planes. It is readily available in many bookstores or on line.