Replies

1. 
   wouzel | Jan 01, 2008 08:15am | #1

   A couple things that I have learned and maybe you already know, but since you asked for ANY suggestions, here are mine.  Make sure your cap iron (chipbreaker) is sharp as well as your blade.  It should have an edge on it sharp enough to cut you if you are careless, and the angle should be such that the sharp edge of the cap iron is what rides on the plane blade.  Put it right down close to the edge of the plane blade so the chip curl happens very close to the cut when you are making those light finishing cuts.  This will help prevent tearing of the wood, and also prevents any of the shavings from going under the cap iron.  I have also found that when I sharpen my plane iron if I apply just a little bit of extra pressure to the outside edges of the blade as I sharpen, that it will put an ever-so-slight curve on the blade edge which will help prevent the edges of the blade from cutting and leaving lines in the work when you are making those really light finish cuts.  It should be such a small curve that you really can't see it until you are extending the blade below the sole of the plane, and then as the blade peeks below the surface of the plane sole, you see the middle of the blade first, just before the corners appear.  I would imagine this only represents maybe a few thousandths of an inch, but it makes a difference.  Be patient and careful.  Take small cuts.  Pay close attention to the grain and how it cuts.  It can be a time consuming task to finish a table top with a hand plane, but it is a great feelling when you see the finished product.  Another thing I learned was to change the way I moved the plane over the wood.  Sometimes I push it, sometimes I pull it.  Pulling and pushing helped me not to tire out as quickly, and using both left and right hands as the driving force also kept me working in a more balanced fashion so I didn't only work one part of my body all the time.  Plus, it's kind of cool to see the wood curl out of your plane from the front end!   Have fun, and enjoy the wood!!

2. 
   Bob_Van_Dyke | Jan 04, 2008 08:57am | #2

   Malcom- I try whenever possible to make a handplaned surface because it is fast (faster than sanding) and the look is crisp. To do this effectively you need a perfectly sharpened iron and the chip breaker should be set very close to the edge (1/32 to 1/16"). To check the sharpness of the iron try shaving end grain eastern white pine- the surface should be shiny with no traces of a white cast- try this with a few different blades (make sure one of them is dull) you will see what I mean.other species of wood do not work as well.
   In my experience the heavier the plane the better- the reason for the Norris type "stuffed" plane was for mass which meant less chatter which meant a better planed surface. The Stanley (and now the Lie Nielsen) 4 1/2 was developed with the same goal- mass.
   I use wax on the sole of the plane all the time- My favorite is Goddards paste wax- but that is no longer available in this country - but any furniture paste wax will work fine- the friction that develops between the wood and the plane sole is amazing!
   Always start out slow and with the lightest of cuts- you don't want to be tearing out the surface at this point!
   when I think I am done- I go over the whole surface with 400 grit stearated sandpaper backed up with a felt or cork block (yes I know that is killing you purists out there- but really- how much can I "muddy up" the grain with something as non aggressive as 400 grit!- seriously...)
   The final sanding does two things- it "amalgamates" the surface- kind of blending the plane strokes together and smoothing out the whole thing- more importantly- it shows up any tearout or plane tracks- the fine dust from the sandpaper fills in any tearout so it is readily visible- you can then replane or scrape that area with a card scraper- and then resand to blend it back together- try it- You will be surprised how well it works.
   And practice- not on pine- on cherry!
   As far as the client wanting a dining table with a "minimum surface waxed finish"???- great- as long as they promise not to call you when they spill food or wine on it and it looks "smudged"- Wax for a table top (while it looks nice) would be my last choice- unless I wanted to make a living refinishing and repairing it...enough said.
   Hope that helps- let me know how you make out
   Bob Van Dyke