I’m new here, so I’ll use this oppertunity to say “Howdy” to everyone.
One question… I’m thinking that I need to get a good general purpose hand plane. However, I know absolutely nothing about them. Is there a good place to learn about them, and do any of you have a favorite hand plane?
Thanks,
Robert
Replies
Robert,
For more than you'll ever need to know about planes, scrapers, etc., I recommend "The Handplane Book," by Garret Hack.
As to a favorite plane: if you mean the one I reach for more often than any other, even though it sits in the same cabinet with Lie- Nielsens, and a Clifton, it would have to be my old $40 low angle Stanley block plane.
Gary
Thanks for the lead on the Handplane Book by Hack. I got one today. It looks great.
- Robert
R_Hood,
You'll get many opinions on this subject, but here's mine. Planes are specialty task items, where different sizes meet different needs. It all depends on what your own method of work determines as being important.
My garage/shop houses the trophy Camry (the wife's) so my methods of work depends upon being compact; I have to choose tooling carefully as I'm not given a lot of space. To that end, I rely upon a stable full of hand planes to perform jointing, flattening, shaping, smoothing and trimming; I have no space for a powered jointer, which would nearly eliminate the work done by the #7, # 5 1/2 and scrub.
A general use plane could be a #4 smoother, about 9-10 inches in length. You could use it for many trimming and shaping jobs, along with smoothing, of course. It would likely not task well for jointing or panel flattening. Some may suggest a low angle version, since with a second iron ground to standard angle, you could have the benefit of low angle for tough grain, and standard angle for general planing.
If you're only into trimming plugs, chamfers and tenons, then a shoulder plane, skew block plane or low angle block plane is what you're looking for.
You will get the most enjoyment from a tool that is clearly a quality item, so save your pennies! I own Lie-Nielsens, but there are other producers, e.g. Lee Valley and Clifton come to mind. Yes, you can use Records and Stanleys, and probably quite effectively, too. No shame in owning a tool that isn't "snob approved", but know that the blades aren't as thick and their overall level of fiddling will be higher. I've been very pleased with Lie-Nielsens, and choose to be a repeat customer.
Cheers,
Seth
Re: "A general use plane could be a #4 smoother, about 9-10 inches in length. You could use it for many trimming and shaping jobs, along with smoothing, of course. It would likely not task well for jointing or panel flattening."
What type of plane would you recommend for panel flattening?
The lie-nielsen low-angle jack.
Personally, my first plane wouldn't be a smoother (#4). It's really not a general purpose plane. The jack plane is much more versatile.
I think the absolute minimum is 2 planes, a block plane (less than 7", single handed use) and a bench plane (anything bigger than 9", use w both hands)
>> The jack plane is much more versatile.
Yes, for a bench plane. That's why they call it a jack :-)
Jackhall,For flattening, I bought a LN 5 1/2. I used it to flatten out my bench top, which is 76 x 32, and this was the perfect plane to have for the job. Unbelieveable, really, this thing loves to run. I've taken to buying the # 1/2 planes (4 1/2 and 5 1/2), presuming that the extra width would be a good thing to have, and that the #7's irons fit them too. I don't regret any of the purchases, but the #4 and #5 would have been just as suitable.Cheers,Seth
HSS stays sharp longer.At lest one woodsorking shop around me sells HSS plane irons. 2 catalogs list them. I expect most retailers sells them.I got mine a long time ago from a shop in Michigan that made HSS cutting tools.
Get The Handplane Book before you do anything else. It's the bible on this topic.
That book will recommend which planes to get first. My own recommendation would be the low-angle jack plane from Lie-Nielsen. It's an incredibly versatile plane.
My favorite plane is about 5" long and has a HHS iron bedded at 45 degrees. My other favorite is 10" long and has a HSS iron bedded at 60 degrees. My most used plane is a razor blade held between my fingers.
The best place to learn is pushing one.
George,
>> ...and has a HSS iron bedded ...
Just curious as to why you need/favor HSS for a handplane, do you push it so hard and fast that it overheats, risking to draw the temper from the iron :~)
Also, I'd be interested in brand name/supplier of these planes/irons, or are they custom made?
Your last comment about the razor blade is much appreciated. Thanks.
I would ask myself what I 'need' one for. When am I saying that I really need a hand plane and for what task? This should answer your question and if it does not then post back the reasons why you need one and I'm sure you will get numerous responses. Good luck
Depends what you want to do with the plane. I find that the most used by far in my shop is a Lie Neilsen low-angle rabbet block plane. It costs about $150 new, and worth every penny. The low angle of the blade makes it useful for planing end and cross grain, and the open sided mouth lets me use it to clean up and trim rabbets because the blade runs the entire width of the plane body. I also use it for trimming tenons to fit and it functions reasonably well for fine-tuning tenon shoulders.
I don't do a huge amount of face-smoothing, but when I do need to remove milling marks from a board face I have a WWII-era Sargent #4 that I picked up off e-bay for $15. After a couple hours of flattening the bottom and honing the iron, it produces transparent-thin shaving along the grain with very little effort and leaves the material with a silky smooth finish. Buy or borrow the Handplane book, read it, figure out what you need in a plane, then look for planes at flea markets or antique stores, ebay, woodcraft etc...
Good luck!
http://www.cianperez.com/Wood/WoodDocs/Wood_How_To/INDEX_How_To.htm
Robert,
Bones in here gave me this link a month ago... I did the same thing you have, if you want to see that thread and get an education check out "Bring on the noise" Its a real eye opener to purist and practical woodworking.
-zen
I am like Desertmaster, I reach for that utility block plane a lot. I might suggest you start with a Stanley block and maybe a #4, then you can branch out. I have and enjoy L-N planes; if money is no object they are the ones to get but if you are just starting, then a less expensive one will get you the experience to appreciate the better quality as well as focus on the particular use you will make of hand planes.
I agree with Mark about the low-angle jack plane. If your sharpening skills are up to snuff, it's amazingly versatile.
Charlie
Not surprisingly, everyone hasa given you some "fairly decent" plane names to think about. (The only problem is ... those superb devices are E-X-P-E-N-S-I-V-E! Were you prepared for that cost factor?)
On the other end of the spectrum (note I didn't say "rainbow") is something that you'll find at Home Depot: the Buck Bros. uhhhhh .... "stuff".
If those things had crossed your eye or mind, put the thought to rest and move on. Do not waste your money: those sorry excuses for hand planes really do make the "Made in USA" label cast into the sole plate an embarrassment. I made the mistake of buying a "BB" 14-inch Jack Plane about three years back ... Let it suffice that it was the biggest waste of $28 I did in a long time.
You'd be far better off picking up a new contractor's-grade No. 4 Stanley at Lowes for about $42. At least the Stanley actually works! Sure, it's not the best thing on the block by any means, but it _will_ allow you to get a bit of experience at a reasonably low price so you can point yourself into some better directions.
(That Buck Bros. stuff would just turn you off so much that you'd never (want to) learn the joys of using a good hand plane (of any age or manufacture)).
-- Steve
Enjoy life & do well by it;
http://www.ApacheTrail.com/ww/
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