I’m in the process of building a cherry blanket chest as a Christmas gift for my bride. I would like very much to have a hand planed finish. The glued up panels have everything from changing grain to rift sawn. I plan on using a LN four and a half plane, I have 45, 50 and 55 degree frogs. Irons sharpened at 30 degrees with a micro bevel.
Any suggestions?
thanks
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Replies
I try to consider my finishing protocol when building. If I am going to hand plane a large panel try to make the grain direction choices to reflect that. Hand planing a row of 3" boards with alternating grain directions is a pain. Steeper angles will be more forgiving but take more effort.
Thanks geedubbee,
I had thought of that before glue up but I was more concerned with how the boards, 3 or 4, looked next together.
I’ve got plenty of cut offs to practice on, if it doesn’t work out I’ll sand to 600 as I usually do.
Are you planning to put a (oil or film) finish on this, or do you mean to leave it bare wood?
My plan is to use Becksvoort’s 50-50 spar varnish and linseed oil rubbed on and wiped off. I believe he sands to 400? If I remember right a cherry table I made last year used that finish and I sanded to 500 or 600. I was happy with that. Although while flatting some of the boards for this new piece I am loving the beauty of the planned surface.
I don't have any high angle frogs for my planes, so can't comment on that. I suspect that if it is going to be possible, it will be with the high angle frog. I have worked a lot of highly figured wood, and my strategy for reducing anxiety has been to use a cabinet scraper, as it won't chip out a chunk of wood like a plane can. The Stanley #80 is the standard, but I lucked into a #81 with a rosewood sole that I like much better. It can leave a slight roughness when going against the grain, but that can be improved by rubbing the surface with some of the shavings.
In any event, practice is your friend!
Use the 55° frog. A bevel up plane would be better yet as they provide a more solid bed for the blade and less likely to chatter.
If you have a block plane, assuming a bed angle of about 12° you simply need to hone a secondary angle of 45° for a cutting angle of 57-58°.
With this arrangement and a light cut you should get a finish without regard to grain direction or figure.
I don't think a planed surface is best for oil.
FYI you don't need to invest in high angle frogs. Back beveling an iron will accomplish the same thing as a high angle frog
I know this is slightly off point, but my LN 62 bevel up is my go to problem solver. With several blades ground at various angles I can tackle just about any grain. On really squirrelly stuff skewing the plane slightly can make the difference.
Regardless of the plane you use, the key to handling tricky grain starts with sharpness. I have seen many woodworkers struggle with hand planes, yet insist their blade was sharp only to be amazed when I demonstrated what a truly sharp blade was capable of.
Do you want a hand planed finish or a well-finished piece?
You can spend time futsing with different frogs, plane set up, sharpening, etc. Or you can...
- Plane what you can with a sharp smoothing plane set with a tight mouth.
- Scrape tear out, reversing grain, etc. with a card scraper.
- Sand to blend
I also have the LN 4-1/2 with a 55 degree frog. I get noticeably less tear out with it than my other hand planes. Sharp blade, tight mouth, and thin shavings help. I still get some minor tear out and use a card scraper to touch those areas up. I need to spend more time learning how to use my No 80 cabinet scraper otherwise I'd try that as well.
I share the mindset of Millstshop, my priority in gluing up panels is the aesthetics of the panel. I'll do whatever I have to make sure the finished piece is successful. My go to smoothing setup is a Veritas low angle jack plane with a 60 degree cutting angle. It takes some work to push it but the results are fantastic.
Thanks everyone for the suggestions, I also have a LN 62. I’ll try some test boards and see what turns out the best.
I am curious to understand what the advantage is for having a hand planed surface if it will have a top (film) coat.
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