I’ve recently finished a dining room table.  The top has a design that has the grain going in different directions.  I’m trying to hand rub the top to a sheet a little more than satin.  My hand rubbing the finish has created two problems: (1) the scratch marks show even after polishing and (2) I’m struggling getting the right sheen.  Here’s what I’ve tried thus far:

1. Pre-cat NC lacquer finish.
2. Level sanded with random orbital to 600 wet-dry and mineral spirits.
3. #0000 steel wool.  When I applied wax, you could see scratch marks. (the table is in front of a window where sunlight enters and shows the scratches in the reflection)
4. Tried random orbital with Abralon 1000-grit. Applied wax.  Can see the swirl marks.  Same result with Abralon 2000.
5. Tried Abralon 2000 in general direction of grain.  Better (Looked like brushed steel)  Applied swirl mark remover. Any marks slightly across grain still show to some extent. But finish is too high sheen. Applied Antiquax. Still too shiny.
   

Here’s my questions:

1. Because of the changing grain direction in the table top, I think I need to mask off and rub each section independently in the direction of the grain. Even so, I’m not sure that will give me an even scratch pattern at the borders of each section. Any suggestions?
2. How do I “hide” the scratch marks without creating a high sheen? A window back lights the table and shows off these marks.
3. The Antiquax (wax) I used leaves a nonuniform coverage even after 2 coats. (removed wax with a clean terry cloth and a very light misting of mildly soapy water.)
4. Is there a “satin sheen” wax I could use? (General Finishes advertises “Satin Finishing Wax.” Don’t know if that would work.)
   Thanks for your help. Swirl mark remover gives to high of a sheen. Here’s what I’ve done so far: 1. Pre-cat NC lacquer finish. 2. Wet dry sanded random orbital to 600. When I applied wax, you could see swirl marks. 3. You suggested using Abralon 1000, possibly followed by 2000. Can see the swirl marks after waxing. 4. Tried Abralon 2000 in general direction of grain. Looked like brushed steel. Better. Applied swirl mark remover. Any marks slightly across grain still show to some extent. But finish is too high sheen. Applied Antiquax. Still too shiny. Here’s my questions: 1. Because of the changing grain direction in the table top, I think I need to mask off and rub each section independently in the direction of the grain. Even so, I’m not sure that will give me an even scratch pattern at the borders of each section. Any suggestions? 2. How do I “hide” the scratch marks without creating a high sheen? A window back lights the table and shows off these marks. 3. The Antiquax I bought from Homestead leaves a nonuniform coverage even after 2 coats. (removed wax with a clean terry cloth and a very light misting of mildly soapy water) Would courser scratches, say steel wool, render a scratch pattern that looks any different? Would wax uniformity be better? 4. Is there a “satin sheen” wax I could use? (General Finishes advertises “Satin Finishing Wax.” Don’t know if that would work.) Thanks for your help. Swirl mark remover gives to high of a sheen. Here’s what I’ve done so far: 1. Pre-cat NC lacquer finish. 2. Wet dry sanded random orbital to 600. When I applied wax, you could see swirl marks. 3. You suggested using Abralon 1000, possibly followed by 2000. Can see the swirl marks after waxing. 4. Tried Abralon 2000 in general direction of grain. Looked like brushed steel. Better. Applied swirl mark remover. Any marks slightly across grain still show to some extent. But finish is too high sheen. Applied Antiquax. Still too shiny. Here’s my questions: 1. Because of the changing grain direction in the table top, I think I need to mask off and rub each section independently in the direction of the grain. Even so, I’m not sure that will give me an even scratch pattern at the borders of each section. Any suggestions? 2. How do I “hide” the scratch marks without creating a high sheen? A window back lights the table and shows off these marks. 3. The Antiquax I bought from Homestead leaves a nonuniform coverage even after 2 coats. (removed wax with a clean terry cloth and a very light misting of mildly soapy water) Would courser scratches, say steel wool, render a scratch pattern that looks any different? Would wax uniformity be better? 4. Is there a “satin sheen” wax I could use? (General Finishes advertises “Satin Finishing Wax.” Don’t know if that would work.)
    

Thanks