Replies

1. 
   RSRose | Jul 22, 2002 10:19pm | #1

   End grain,

   I believe that someone is misunderstanding the term "hand-rubbed" in this context.

   Laquer is typically sprayed, but can also be brushed. In-between coats, each dry coat can be lightly leveled with fine abrasive or steel wool. However, laquer, like shelac, but unlike other finishes, disolves each underlying coat with each new application. This property greatly reduces the need to sand between coats, except for dust, sags and other surface imperfections.

   Once the laquer has been built to the desired thickness, it can be left "as-is." This is the norm, for instance, in auto body finishing. A smooth, glossy, but very slightly "stippled" surface results.

   Or, "the finish can be finished." This means that the final surface is rubbed with successive grades of abrasive to achieve a final smooth surface either satin or high gloss. Usually, 4-0 steel wool through pumice and rottenstone or rubbing compound through polishing compound is used. No other method gives the final beautiful look as such "hand-rubbing."

   Rich

2. 
   Len_Olson | Jul 23, 2002 03:17am | #2

   I agree with Rich, my 2 extra cents......

   The reason most shops went to Lacquers over varnish is primarily speed. I have only known lacquer to be sprayed, but I'm guessing Rich is probably right on applying by hand. Depending upon the brand and type of lacquer (i.e. whether or not it is precatalyzed), you can reapply from 20 min. to one hour later.

   Please do not take this as a shot at Norm, because there is enough of that going on elsewhere. However, unless you have the patience of Jobe, you simply cannot complete the piece's finish within a reasonable time. Also, it is my opinion that you cannot achieve the same uniformity and depth with products other than lacquer. Another advantage is how forgiving lacquers are with stains and undercoats.

   The aspect of "hand-rubbed" is a complete mis-nomer with regard to lacquers. You can achieve certain "effects" with lacquer, but it is not "hand-rubbed". You can, if desired, go over a coat with steel wool between coats, and you do generally complete the finish with 0000 steel wool.

   For the last few years, I have shot nothing but CAB by Sherwin Williams. CAB comes in degrees of "hand-rubbed" from low to high gloss. I posted an example using CAB over in the gallery called

   "new main bench". It is "medium rub".

   Len

   
   

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   Edited 7/22/2002 8:55:37 PM ET by Len

1. 
   goldhiller | Jul 25, 2002 07:02am | #4

   Len,

   If your in the mood sometime to try something different, I'd recommend that you try MagnaMax. We've found it to be a superior product to SW CAB, which we used for quite some time. Pre-catalyzed with a 30 day shelf life. You can leave it set in the gun with no problems. No scratching upon rubout as with the old MagnaLac.

3. 
   Elcoholic | Jul 23, 2002 06:23pm | #3

   Lacquer flashes-off so fast I don't think it could be possibly padded or wiped on with good results.  If you wanted to try it I'd try a brushing lacquer like Deft.  It has enough retarder in it so brush marks can flow out (theoretically anyway).  I spray Lilly nitrocellulous lacquer which is available in several sheens and types.  Sprayed lacquer dries so fast, dust is never a problem.  The only time I sand between coats is if I goof and shoot a dry coat and get a lot of orange peel.  I usually just use a medium sheen semi-gloss and adjust the gloss by the rubbing out.  For low luster 4/0 steel wool, no wax.  Follow with wax for more luster.  For a glassy finish I'll wet sand from 320 to 400 or 600 and power buff with Dupont #7 auto polish followed with a coat of wax.

   Because of the risk of blowing myself up and concern about breathing the fumes I'm climbing the learning curve on waterborne poly and will probably switch over completely in the near future.

   John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne