Replies

1. 
   Rich14 | Feb 04, 2005 09:27pm | #1

   Pat,

   Don't sand with only a block of wood either when sanding the wood or the finish. You need a flat, firm but slightly yielding pad between the wood block and the sandpaper. Cork is a good material. But frankly, several layers of paper towel does the trick if you really want low tech. A 3M rubber sanding block is great.

   When sanding between finish coats, you just want to knock off the tops of the nubs and the "hills" of the finish. Often with the first coat, the "valleys" will remain shiny and any attempt to get them sanded will result in your cutting right through the film to bare wood. As your layers of finish build up, the entire surface will become flatter - there will be very little difference between the hills and valleys - sanding will level everything all at once.

   You can use the 3M rubber block. I like to use a block of cork, it doesn't matter that much. Use a very light pressure with an open coat paper. If shiny (valley) areas don't seem to be responding don't start pressing too hard. It's time to put on more finish. Everything will level up as the coats build.

   The above applies mainly to shellac, lacquer, varnish. Watco Danish Oil produces an extremely thin surface film of varnish (it contains linseed oil and varnish). With the first few applications, maybe no surface film at all. I don't think it is necessary to sand Watco if you wipe dry as is the usual procedure. I apply two coats to get the surface sealed, letting the first harden for 24 hours, the second for at least 48, then all successive coats are applied with either steel wool or 400 grit wet or dry paper as the applicator. The applicator does all the necessary "leveling" of the dried surface and is lubricated by the fresh mixture.

   Rich

   Don't ever learn anything new. Rather than give you satisfaction that you know more than you did, it will only confirm you know less than you thought by opening horizons to things of which you had never dreamt and which you now must explore.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 2/4/2005 1:33 pm ET by Rich14

1. 
   tbird | Feb 04, 2005 11:38pm | #2

   Thanks for the detailed reply, Rich!  I have been making it harder on myself than I need to I guess.  What is the definition of an open coat sandpaper?

1. 
   Rich14 | Feb 04, 2005 11:59pm | #3

   Pat,

   In "open coat" paper the abrasive surface is not packed with abrasive particles. There is enough "empty space" that the sanding debris does not clog the paper.

   It will say "open coat" on the back of the sheet. I've only seen aluminum oxide abrasive as an open coat product and that's the one to use.

   Wet or dry papers are closed coat. The surface is packed with abrasive particles and they are usually silicon carbide. They need a lubricant to keep them from clogging.

   I have found open coat papers up to 400 grit. Closed coat wet or dry starts at 320.

   Rich

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Feb 05, 2005 02:13am | #4

   >>Question #2: when sanding between coats of finish (Watco Danish Oil) what should I use to hold the sandpaper(wood block, rubber pad, hand)?

   I don't believe you sand between coats of Watco. I don't. Follow the directions on the can. You only apply two, maybe three coats at most. For a smoother finish, apply the final coat using 400 W&D paper.

   Question #3: how much time does a between-coat sanding take and how do I keep from sanding through the coat of finish?

   See above, Watco is an oil/varnish finish that is designed to penetrate the surface of the wood and leave the look and feel of the grain. It is not a film finish that sits on top of the wood and tends to obscure the feel of the grain.

   Howie.........
3. 
   forestgirl | Feb 07, 2005 12:33am | #5

   "...does a rubber block sanding pad (3M in my case) work the same as a flat wood block?"  Make sure the rubber block is flat.  I've owned a few that weren't.

   You might consider wet-sanding for all coats of Watco.  I've finished red oak this way, and it came out gorgeous.  An acquaintance raved about doing the same when using maple.  As mentioned above. you don't generally sand between coats of Watco.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

4. 
   ron61 | Feb 07, 2005 01:03am | #6

   ttt

    

    

5. 
   SlimShaving | Feb 07, 2005 08:46am | #7

   Pat
   If you have a sharp scraper. Go over the flat surfaces with it lightly and then use a red non woven pad on the curved. You'll get a really smooth finish. I hardly ever sand between coats on any finish since I learned this. I use one of the thin LEe Valley Scrapers. Works really great if you use lacquer. And if you get any runs in lacquer you can level them right up. Just make sure there good and dry.
   Dave

1. 
   tbird | Feb 07, 2005 08:27pm | #8

   Thanks to all, I'll let you know how I make out!!