Greetings
I’m in the process of learning to hand cut dovetails. Phase I was a success — I got a Katz-Moses dovetail jig and a dozuki saw, watched a lot of videos and read a lot of articles, and cut a big bunch of boxes/drawers using this method. I now know what has to be square to what and why.
But for some vague reason(s) related to tradition or nostalgia, I’ve moved to Phase II: western saws (Veritas dovetail and carcass saws). I just got some saw files and the veritas saw file guide to help me learn about rake and fleam and whatnot.
I’m having the usual beginner’s trouble on starting the cut, esp. the crosscuts. Is there consensus thinking on the need for a graduated/progressive rake? I’m following what I think is the usual technique advise (good stance, saw with your arm not your hand/wrist, grip the handle like it’s a small bird, not a death grip, etc). Just wondering whether folks who do a lot of hand sawing see the need/benefit of a graduated rake. My saws won’t need sharpening for a long time, so I probably won’t screw around with it yet and see if I can solve my “problem” with technique. But I’m curious.
Also, question 2:
I’m going to practice filing on my Dad’s old Craftsman 26″, 10 pt. saw. Are these saws the handsaw equivalent of a “combination blade”? There’s a faded stamp that says “bevel-filed for easier cutting” and “taper ground, resists binding”. Is there a typical rake and fleam on these things, and if so what are they?
Thanks —
Neal
Replies
Have a look at BadAxe Toolworks website http://www.badaxetoolworks.com/ Take one of their saw sharpening classes. Well worth it.
There are a billion ways to file carpenter's saws. Crosscut and rip are obvious. But the amount of rake and fleam varied for softwood or hard, wet or dry, finish desired -- you name it. Restoration carpenters who rely on handsaws might have a couple of dozen saws, all filed differently.
Rip saws with no rake or fleam are hardest to start. That goes for little dovetail saws too. Some saws have a little rake and fleam on the first part of a dovetail saw to help start it. Some vary the TPI on those first teeth also. To each their own, but the general consensus is that increasing the TPI to start is not really helpful, but a little rake and fleam is.
For cutting dovetails 3/4 or so and smaller, I use a 12 inch crosscut carcase backsaw. You don't really need it rip filed, especially for pine. Doing very thick or very dense wood, I'll use a rip backsaw. But a crosscut backsaw starts easier than rip, too.
Matt Cianci sharpens saws, down in Rhode Island. He does classes around the area, so when this here covid is over, taking a one day class will help a lot.
Thanks John. He has a one day class at CT Valley School of WW scheduled for May 8, I've emailed them to see about availability. Probably the single best investment I could make in my WW is to take some classes, so I've asked about a few of their offerings. Hopefully there are some openings.
Bob runs a first rate school. I highly recommend classes there.
I do okay with a big rip saw sharpening but when I get to a fine tooth crosscut I go blind. I bought a lit head set loop that goes up to 5X magnification but man its though. I am going to retry after I take a big black sharpie to the teeth so it will be easier to see the shiny ones.
vision, ugh. That's a separate issue :(
When tooth sizes get to the mid teens, I can't see crap. I go by feel and sound once I get started.
Lee Valley makes a gizmo that goes on the tip of the file that helps with rake and fleam a lot.
I went through a dozen vintage saw filing clamps, and was unhappy with them all. When the Gramercy Tools version came out, it was a game hanger. Fantastic tool.
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