Replies

1. 
   15Broad | May 24, 2004 11:43pm | #1

     Hey Lar, just getting into the hand tool thing myself, but yup, they make a coarse toothed saw called a ripsaw.  I've seen them at Lee-Valley, but the other specialty people probably have them too.  Haven't had any luck with the local box stores...the old guys know what I'm talking about and the young guys look blankly at me and ask ''Table saw?". 

     Rip saw looks like a crosscut but the tooth count is something like 5ppi.  I tried a panel saw to rip a bit of 6/4 maple for about 25 minutes before I took it to the TS, a proper ripsaw may have avoided the screeching.

   Good luck. 

2. 
   Alan | May 25, 2004 01:24am | #2

   Lar,

   I've been down that road.  I'm still on it--and I like wood working without evil forked-tail demons much more than the norm.

   Ripping, one of life's greatest pleasures--so long as you have a rip saw.  They're not hard to spot once you know what to look for.

   A rip saw's teeth are filed with their front edge perpendicular to a line that would touch the tops of all the teeth (I hope you can understand that rather awkward description).  I'll try a visual aid:  where a cross-cut teeth look like VVVVVVVV, rip teeth would look more like VVVVVVV (with the saw's handle to the right).

   A second difference between rip saw teeth and cross-cut teeth is that their top edges are at a right angle to the flat of the saw blade.

   Rip saws can be found in the wild, but it takes some effort.  I got tired of the hunt so I bought an old Disston cross-cut saw and re-filed the teeth (don't gasp, it wasn't and isn't a collectable).  Filing cross-cut teeth to rip teeth isn't the least bit difficult so long as you don't change the tpi; it takes only time and a little know-how.

   The considerations for the number of tpi for a rip saw is the same as for cross-cut saws: the number of tpi will vary according to what kind of work you want to do with that particular saw.  The rougher the work, the fewer tpi.

   Or (and this is the good part) you can forget all this and buy a new one.  Most all of the catalog outfits carry them.  Depending on the work you will want to do you might even consider a bow saw (also called a "frame saw").

   Alan (once again too long on my soap box)

1. 
   BG | May 25, 2004 02:27am | #3

   Lar,

   A frame saw is a fun project for a rainy afternoon...and cheap to build.  You can pick up blades at Woodcraft for about $7 bucks...and with a couple of screws and some scrap maple your good to go....

2. 
   Lar55 | May 25, 2004 03:42am | #5

   Thanks all for the responses.  I own a rip saw and bow saw I just have to put them to work now.  So I guess you draw the line down the 8 ft. or however long board you have and start ripping.  A couple of nice things about doing it that way is, it's quieter than a table saw, less dust, and good exercise.  Keeping the saw blade on the line for any length of time will be a challenge.  Thanks Again!!!

1. 
   BenM | May 25, 2004 02:25pm | #8

   You will find that ripping is fairly hard work and it gets harder as the wood gets thicker.  To make it easier on yourself you have to find the correct height from the floor to the wood so it is your back muscles that are doing the work.  For me it's about 16 inches from the floor.  At this height I can also conveniently hold the plank down with my foot which saves time since I don't need clamps.  Also, you don't want too much of the plank overhanging the support because of the vibration (though this will be dependent on the plank thickness).  You will find that you need to stay about 1/8 inch away from your line so you will able to clean up to the line.  After you have done this for a while you'll be able to kiss those gym fees goodbye.

1. 
   Lar55 | May 25, 2004 04:04pm | #10

   Excellent advice, thanks Ben.

3. 
   mike4244 | May 25, 2004 03:24am | #4

   You need a 5 1/2 pt ripsaw. I have two Distons that I rarely use. The second saw was found in an old house I bought , otherwise one ripsaw is will be sufficient. I also have a 5 1/2 pt crosscut, this saw was originally a ripsaw. Bought it for a dollar at a garage sale. I never go on a job without it, cuts framing lumber so easily that I use it wherever I need a cordless saw.

   mike

4. 
   AugieFrise | May 25, 2004 05:40am | #6

   Lar,

   Check out this awesome primer on sharpening saws.  Among other things it makes the difference between cross cut and rip blades crystal clear.

   http://www.vintagesaws.com/library/primer/sharp.html

   HTH,

   Augie

1. 
   Lar55 | May 25, 2004 06:24am | #7

   Augie,

   Alot of good information, thanks a ton.

5. 
   MarkRoderick | May 25, 2004 03:13pm | #9

   You should speak with Tom Law in Maryland, who seems to be the world's expert on handsaws. He sharpens them for an unbeatable price and every now and then has one or two for sale. I have a whole complement of old Distons that have been sharpened by Tom.

   With all that said, you're in for some real work if you're giving up the motors altogether. Good luck.

   Tom's contact info:

   - (301) 824-5223

   - 62 West Water Street, Smithsburg, MD 21783

1. 
   Lar55 | May 25, 2004 04:05pm | #11

   Thanks Mark for the info.

2. 
   domermatt | May 26, 2004 04:26am | #12

   I have some news you won't want, Tom Law retired because it was taking too much time. You can check the link for more info.

   http://www.frontier.iarc.uaf.edu:8080/~cswingle/archive/get.phtml?message_id=131425&submit_thread=1#message

   When people 100 years from now see my work, they'll know I cared. --Matt Mulka

1. 
   MarkRoderick | May 26, 2004 01:56pm | #13

   That's terrible news. But thanks for sharing it.

2. 
   wjcargill | May 26, 2004 04:39pm | #14

   Hi,

   I have been mostly lurking and keeping quiet, but I thought I would share some information about sharpening services. Adria Tools, who make high quality back saws, used to recommend Tom Law as well. Now they have another service they provide contact information for on their site. Here is the link:

   http://www.adriatools.com/handsaw/tool_care.html

   Wes

3. 
   jazzdogg | May 28, 2004 07:42am | #16

   Matt,

   You might want look at Tom Law's video: "Hand Saw Sharpening" (ALP Productions). Along with Lee's sharpening book, a few comparitively simple tools, and a little patience and practice, you can tune up your saws and keep them well-maintained for years to come.

   Good luck,-Jazzdogg-

   Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.

6. 
   tsproul | May 26, 2004 06:18pm | #15

   No one else has spoken up about this option so I'll offer it up...

   I prefer pull saws and use them. I also have a large (well, large for a cabinetmaker) frame saw I like.

   I use low horses as someone else mentioned....but I actually stand up on the boards while sawing....this helps control and vibration and such and gives me a very good sight of the line. I don't think that is much of an option if you are a push sawyer....

   Have some wedges ready too...and a bit of tape. tap a wedge in and tape it as you rip. Hand ripping will free up stresses in the board just as ripping with a power tool...the kerf may want to close up on you.

   Tim

   On the neverending quest for wood.