I was recently given an older stanley block plane – the one with the adjustable mouth. Clearly, someone got rid of it because the screw that holds the cap iron and the blade down is stripped out and won’t hold anymore.
My idea is to wax the screw and put a filled epoxy like JB Weld into the hole, then put the screw in. Later, I can back out the screw and leave cast threads.
Does anyone have a better idea how to fix this? Thanks in advance.
I have a small project with quilted maple drawer fronts and intend, if possible, to sharpen the blade to cut at a 50 degree angle to tame the wild grain.
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If it's going to be used and not just set on a shelf, I would redrill and install the next larger size of screw. It will hold better and won't fail at the worst possible time. JB Weld may work, but I like to fix things once, not repeatedly. Also, Stanley seemed to use non-standard screw threads, so this is a great opportunity to change to something that would be easy to replace.
I second that.I have retapped a few old planes with next size bolt.Or, you can drill out the threads and install a threaded insert to use the old thread size. There are many types of threaded inserts depending on how you want to do it. The idea is the outside of the threaded insert has a larger thread size, the inside has a smaller size.Jim
It's probably going to be easier to just drill and tap it so a different screw can be used. As I said before, I have seen quite a bit about Stanley using non-standard threads and I doubt there's a Heli-coil that will work with the original screw.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Thanks guys. I'm going to take the lever cap and the original screw down to the hardware tomorrow at noon. I'm going to the next size if I can find a head that fits the levercap slot. If nothing else, an allen head cap screw should fit. Absent that, I'll grind out the cap until it does. 1/4 x 20 doesn't quite catch so I think it'll be 5/16 ths x 18. This plane could end up costing $0.10! And a lot of work, but I'm kinda fond of fiddling. If only work didn't take up so much time...
I was just thinking- there is body filler that sets up about as hard as steel and can be drilled and tapped. A good hardware store may have some or be able to point you in the right direction. Another good resource is machine shops. They may be able to let you look in their odd parts for a screw that will work better than a machine screw. I don't think I would drill the cap out. If it's plated, it'll rust where the base metal is showing.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
I walked to the ace hardware this noon and tried a bunch of screws. I found that a fine thread 7mm fit very well and should hold OK. Unfortuneately, they only had hex bolts so I'll have to try a few other hardware stores or go to a fastner supply. But, I think the problem is solved. It's an older Stanley block plane with the long lever cap so it should be pretty good. The sole looks mostly flat, but there's actually a small area where the casting texture remains. Even then Stanley only used part of their donkey.
Once upon a time I repaired the fixed-cup side bottom bracket threads of a Raleigh Professional with plastic steel. In that case I did retap the thread after the stuff hardened. I think, before doing what you're talking about, I might do a trial run with stuff I don't care about.
Also, you might read up on the West Epoxy website. West recommends using Epoxy in holes for more holding power. (Drill the hole oversize, fill with epoxy, stuff in screw, or perhaps drill and tap, I don't remember. In anycase your results may vary.)
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