Replies

1. 
   DaveHeinlein | Apr 29, 2002 02:32am | #1

   Assemble it on a nice flat surface to insure a flat rail, and glue the joint, it helps.

1. 
   alexlisa | Apr 29, 2002 02:38am | #2

   My problem is, how to draw the joint tight? I guess this would apply to any irregularly shaped stock being mitered. Any finish carpenters out there?

1. 
   djpp | Apr 29, 2002 03:35am | #3

   I use a plywood jig and shims to wedge the joint tight. Only after the glue is set up, I toe screw from the bottom using a torx drive finish screw. using dowels to strengthen the joint is a good idea, although it can get tricky if your rail design requires a compound miter.  

   dry fit then assemble on flat surface as metioned above.

              Have fun, Dave

2. 
   Alan | Apr 29, 2002 10:03pm | #4

   q-sawn,

   If the handrail isn't so far along that doing the following won't hurt it or cost you an unacceptable amount of extra work, you can glue clamping blocks onto the handrail to provide places to put your clamps and keep the miter tight.  When I do this I use white glue.  Shape and place the blocks to create as many places to clamp as you want.  To make the block much easier to remove, put a piece of paper or thin card stock in the glue joint between the block and the rail.  When the glue in the miter is dry, use a chisel to remove the block and a scraper to remove the grunge from the handrail.

   Alan

3. 
   PaulParadis | Apr 30, 2002 08:58pm | #5

   I do this on a regular basis.  No big deal. 

   Make your 45 degree cuts nice and slow to get a nice miter cut.  The blade will wander if you cut to fast creating a joint that is impossible to make look right.

   Use some titebond, I put a light coat on both sides because the end grain oak will suck it up.  Lay the rail on a flat surface and put a couple brads in to hold till the glue sets up.

   Make sure to predrill holes for screws that will attach the brackets.

   No need to use screws as the returns do not get any stress.