Handsaw input

Hal123 | Posted in Hand Tools on November 8, 2007 04:36am

I am curious. Does anyone use the traditional crosscut &/or ripsaw much anymore and typically for what purpose? I am also interested in any input on the quality/satisfaction of some of the high-end saws such as Pax or Linx? I have been considering a pair but would like some feedback. I might be better off with an old Disston fixed up.

Replies

Samson | Nov 08, 2007 05:11am | #1
Does anyone use the traditional crosscut &/or ripsaw much anymore and typically for what purpose?

Yeah, I use 'em all the time, mostly to cut wood. ;-)

There are several excellent hand saw makers out there depending upon your needs. For back-saws, tenon saws, dovetail saws, I recommend Wenzloff (available at http://www.thebestthings.com ; http://www.leevalley.com, and on Mike's own site: http://www.wenzloffandsons.com/saws/index.html), Lie-Nielsen (http://www.lie-nielsen.com), Adria, and Gramercy (http://www.toolsforwoodworking.com).

For full size rip and cross cut saws, Wentzloff is probably the best bet.

I bought a Pax or Lynx a long time back and didn't think much of it (poorly shaped handle and just so-so at cutting).

Old Disstons, Atkins, etc. are great (I have several collected over years), but they are hard to buy if you don't know a bit about them (read up at http://www.vintagesaws.com or the "disstonian institute" page). With old saws, it also helps a lot to know how to sharpen or know a good saw sharpener.

Edited 11/7/2007 10:15 pm ET by Samson
Tony Z | Nov 08, 2007 05:14am | #2
I'm a hobbyist woodworker and if lucky I get an hour or so every day in my shop with several times a week several hours. There isn't a day that I don't use one of the many saws I have.

I have a full complement of crosscut, rip and special joinery saws. The saws range from vintage and collectables to modern LN, etc. You can get started very well with a $5.00 flea market saw and have it sharpened for another $15.00, or got right to the top with a Wenzloff hand made. You can go Western or Japanese style.

As with any tool, it is always a matter of personal preference and feel for the tool. Find a local that has a few saws and get one in your hand. Personally I would start with a used saw. Send it off to Steve Cooke of York, PA to get it sharpened and use it. Saws are a very slippery slope as is anything to do with handtools!
VTAndy_ | Nov 08, 2007 05:26am | #3
Hi Hal,
I use a Pax 20" crosscut and 24" crosscut (actually, it might be 26", I don't remember) and a 20" rip saw for cutting rough lumber to size. Also a very old Disston that I know nothing about but it is a monster crosscut. I would like a longer rip saw but for now I'm using what I've got until funds allow for an upgrade to Mike W's saws -- and by then, I should have a clearer idea of what I want. I don't have a tablesaw, bandsaw, circular saw, or chopsaw, so these handsaws get a lot of use, but in the interest of full disclosure, I'm not depending on woodworking to make a living, so speed is not an issue, and I tend to enjoy processes as much as products! That said, I have found that the more I saw, the faster I can take it with less and less risk, especially the rip cuts, which are always followed by a long plane.

I had some frustration at first but a friend gave me some pointers, in particular about how to start a cut accurately, and how to gradually correct a cut, and now I love sawing -- but then again, I also love to take a 6 mile run. Besides the steady exercise, there is a nice sound and rhythm to it (I'm a folk musician) and depending on the wood it smells great (I'm a foodie) and doesn't cause big clouds of dust or noise (I worry too much).

If you can fix up old Disstons, that seems like a great way to go; the Pax saws have handles that aren't as comfy as Disstons. I guess one could customize the handles. I think they are a nice mid-price saw.
Cheers,
Andy

Hal123 | Nov 08, 2007 07:19am | #4
Presently I have a D8 that I've spruced up, my grandfathers Keystone and another of unknown make. I cut my dovetails with a $12 Marples Japanese-style saw (it cuts exceptionaly clean and fast). I think I paid $5 for the D8 at a flea market.

As with golf clubs, maybe the $500 driver will turn my 275 yard drive into 325 and maybe the $150 saw will make the cut truer

I think in both the practice will prove to be the answer.

BobSmalser | Nov 08, 2007 09:45am | #5


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With workpieces often 18 feet long weighing 300lbs and high-end finish requirements, even the most power tool crazy boatbuilder has to learn to make hand saws work for him, as power tools have a very limited range of angles.

The best and lifetime route is to teach yourself to sharpen them and buy a few older D-8's or D-23's to start with. Nobody today makes a western blade any better than those, period, regardless of how much they charge for them, and they are the best values as users. eBay has guys selling good older saws already sharpened, and that's the best way to learn so all you have to do is follow a tutorial on a saw that already has good teeth. Vintage Saws and the Disstonian Institute are sources to learn about hand saws and sharpening. I have some guidance out there, too. Tuning hand saws is a relatively easy, basic skill over-rated by many. Drop by the shop and I can get you started in the right direction in around 15 minutes. ;)

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