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This question is about the cabinet hanging rail which most cabinets have along the top of the case back. I don’t want to confuse this with the “hanging cleat” or “French” cleat which has been posted recently.

What is the fastest or “proper” way to build in the cabinet hanging rail ? I make my boxes with recessed backs, all carcase joints are dadoed or rabbeted. The sides are dadoed ½” and setback a ½”. The hang rail which I use is ¾” and rabbeted on both ends so as to sit in the side dadoes and also this rail is rabbeted on the bottom so as to cap the ½” back panel. Now this is all real strong but a lot of operations to complete. I wonder if I can streamline these steps and still get an equally strong box? Since all my joints, as I said are dadoed and rabbeted, I wonder of I even need a hanging rail? Can I just screw through the ½” back, through a spacer and shim into the wall stud? I know a lot of cheap stock cabinets are done this way but I hope to get advice on the conventional practice from custom workers. (I don’t mean to offend anybody but I really don’t want to hear about biscuits and pocket screws, I just don’t trust them where structure is required).

Additionally, I have been rabbeting the top edge of the base unit side panels to set in stretchers. Would simpler corner blocks be sufficient instead of stretchers? If so , how best to fasten? Thanks for advice.
tc