Replies

1. 
   JohnWW | Mar 16, 2006 12:17am | #1

   I can offer a very simple solution for the belt problem.

   Bolt down the motor in a fixed position, properly lined up with the pulley it will be driving, and then use a link belt, such as the red belts made by Fenner, to make the hook up to the arbor shaft.  Rather than having to move the motor to get the proper tension, you just adjust the length of the belt.

   John White, Shop Manager, Fine Woodworking Magazine

1. 
   kmetzger | Mar 16, 2006 04:43am | #2

   Thank you, John, I'll keep that option in mind. It might be the way I'll have to go.  I should mention that I live in Mexico and can't get all parts easily.

   I've also seen set-ups with hinges that would make it possible to lift the motor for installing and removing the belt. 

   I've been thinking about trying to find the right place to support the motor permanently with just right right amount of tension and attach the motor to a board hinged to the permanent support for removing the belt.  

1. 
   QCInspector | Mar 16, 2006 12:37pm | #3

   Put your motor low in the machine for stability, on a hinged plate with a normal v-belt. To prevent the over tensioning put a stop bolt and jam nut under the mounting plate opposite the hinge. Use it to limit the downward travel when setting the belt tension.

2. 
   mike4244 | Mar 20, 2006 11:16pm | #4

   The weight of the 1hp motor should not be a factor unless bearings on the mandrel are not ball bearing. Hinge the motor on a board. If you do not want to hinge the motor,mount the motor with enough slack in the belt for a jackshaft. The jackshaft and pulley are adjusted tight enough to run the mandrel.This will make it easy to change speeds if the pulley is stepped.The jackshaft is just an arm, the pulley attaches to it with a smooth bolt. Remove the set screw from the pulley,install a grease fitting( you may have to tap the hole for this)and grease the bolt occasionally. A spring will keep tension on the jackshaft,or you can fasten the shaft to something after you get the correct tension.

   mike

3. 
   gb93433 | Mar 29, 2006 06:37am | #5

   Where were you able to buy the mandrel, etc.?

4. 
   gb93433 | Mar 29, 2006 06:48am | #6

   When I built a horizontal mortiser I used a J belt and pulleys to match. I think they are commonly called poly V belts. It is incredibly smooth.

   
   

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   Edited 3/29/2006 5:54 pm by gb93433

5. 
   Stuart | Mar 30, 2006 08:30pm | #7

   Could you install a spring or two to help support the motor?  They could be sized so they aren't strong enough to support the whole thing, but just strong enough to take some of the weight off the mandrel.

1. 
   kmetzger | Mar 30, 2006 09:20pm | #8

   Many thanks to all of you for your suggestions. I finished the job the other day and ended up using a hinged board as suggested by

   QCInspector <!----><!----> 

   "Put your motor low in the machine for stability, on a hinged plate with a normal v-belt. To prevent the over tensioning put a stop bolt and jam nut under the mounting plate opposite the hinge. Use it to limit the downward travel when setting the belt tension."

    

   And I found that the weight of the motor was no problem at all. It's a heavy motor but it does not put too much tension on the belt - actually I tightened the stop bolt to put even more tension on it.

    

   I built two stands made of 2 inch by 3 inch yellow pine with rails mortised into the legs. One stand holds the mandrel/pillow blocks with the drill chuck and the motor. The other stand holds a mortising table designed to be used on a jointer. See slot mortising attachment http://www.nmauk.com/scheppach/scheppach%20pages/hmc3200ci.html

    

   The table allows me to move the workpiece longitudinally (into the drill bit) and horizontally. 

    

   gb93433 <!----><!----> asked where I bought the mandrel. Well, here in Mexico it's very common for woodworkers to use homemade table saws with horizontal mortisers. So the equipment is available all over town in Guadalajara.

    

   I now have a set-up that will allow me to bore accurate dowel holes into the side pieces for my Krenov-style cabinets. It has one drawback, however: my vertical adjustment is very low tech, to say the least. I have to adjust the leg levelers or use shims to get the right height for the board I'm drilling holes into.

    

   Again, thank you all for your suggestions. Best wishes, Kim

   Edited 4/1/2006 11:22 am ET by kmetzger

   Edited 4/1/2006 11:23 am ET by kmetzger