I am making wall clocks and am looking for a unique way to hang them. They must be hung level and not be jarred from side to side. All the antique clocks I’ve seen only have one hanger screw and are susceptible to being bumped and knocked off center. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
p.s. two screws is not an option
Mike Griffin
Indianapolis
Edited 12/23/2007 11:20 am ET by 9michael9
Edited 12/23/2007 11:21 am ET by 9michael9
Replies
French Cleat
I believe that will work just fine. At first I thought it was something the French put on the bottom of their boots untill I googled it.
Thanks;
Mike
I have made over 42 school house octagonal clocks and I use two screw holes, 4" apart in the back and I supply a 3//4" x 1" X 6" long piece of wood with holes 4" apart and exacrly on the center line of the length of the stock. So to mount the clock, I put a small level on the on top of the piece and mark the two holes on the wall. This gives me a perfectly level screw hole location at the exact dimension for the holes in the clock. All my clocks are pendulum, spring wound, and must be dead level in order to keep good time. I furnish mounting instructions with the clock for those that I do not install myself.
That's how I do mechanical clocks, but it won't work on the battery operated ones very well. The chime switch is in the case and of course the battery. I think the french cleat would work well , don't you.
~~Mike
If the back is open, then the french cleat would work fine. If there is a back, the clock will stick out by the thickness of the french cleat from the wall.
I just built a school house clock and had a hell of a time with the segments. I found just a tiny error screwed everything up. Could you send a picture of yours. I would like to see the inner part where the segments meet. Mine looked bad and I found a fix you might enjoy seeing.
~~mike
Here are the pictures. Sorry about the size but if you scan you will see all the details. If you can't see them I will try to resend. This clock was made in 1974 and is still running and keeping excellent time.
Edited 12/24/2007 11:39 am ET by mrbird90
Edited 12/24/2007 11:41 am ET by mrbird90
Edited 12/24/2007 3:37 pm ET by mrbird90
Here is another try at sizing pictures.
I've hung a few with flush mount fingers, there are a few other options on this page.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?sku=346&cs=1
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Help, but not much. Can't remember where I saw them but there is an extruded French cleat out there that has a level on it with a very low profile. If you use a French cleat you will want to install a bump-out on the bottom of the clock to keep it plumb.
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
I've never made a clock, but have a couple of antique pendelum clocks that hang on the wall. Both of them have a keyhole centered on the upper back, and two small thumbscrews near the bottom of the cases. The thumbscrews seem to do a good job of preventing any side-to-side movement.
How are the thumbscrews attached?
Like this. There's one on each side. The "points" on the thumbscrews prevent side-to-side movement and make any necessary adjustments so the pendelum is plumb.
I will use this method from now on. Are the powder post beetles still active in this clock?? If you have little piles of sawdust under the clock you have a serious problem. It looks like they might be from the looks of some of the holes. If they are in there you must get rid of them.
~~mike
The clock needs to hang plumb to get the beat right. The old way is the easiest way. Hang it from a single point at the top. When its plumb and in beat, secure through the back of the case on the inside at the bottom. Look at any old wall clock and you will see former mounting holes inside the case.
Dan
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