I am looking at a square dining table, 2 people per side, plus 1 leaf to fit two more. looking at veneer home sawn, .110 thick or so w/ picture framed edges(mitered), glued to baltic birtch (better holding / strength than MDF, Comments please). Is my veneer too thick? I want something thicker / more durable than traditional veneer. I am concerned a solid cherry top will need bread board of some type and this may loof less formal , I am trying for something a little fancy. Thanks for your ideas and comments, Dave
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Replies
I recently completed a 60" round pedestal dining table w/ 1 - 20" leaf. I made the top with a core of 3/4" poplar boards 3 - 4" wide edge glued with a cross band of 1/16" poplar veneer and then 1/16" mahogany veneer. Basically lumber core veneer plywood. It is very strong with no sag, this was a concern being pedestal supported. I made the top a diamond match with a 4" crossband border. I purchased my veneer from Certainlywood, and was very pleased with the quality and sizes available. I banded the edge with 3/4" wide solid mahogany, let the veneer sandwich the edgeband and then routed a thumbnail edge. I liked working with 1/16" veneer because it give you a little more material to sand if required. I used a vacuum bag press, which really helped with a large top. Good luck.
Robert
You can increase the holding power of mdf by scuff sanding to get past the surface glaze. I like mdf because if it's stability. Bs sure and veneer both sides. I think the thick veneer will work ok as I have seen very thick veneer in old furniture.
rick
hi dave
Mike Burton has a great book on veneering and a dinning room table plus other projects - fancy and not so fancy - great looking table all veneer.
VENEERING A FOUNDATION COURSE - BY MIKE BURTON - GOOD LUCK
JIM
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