I have a client that wants me to build a 46″ x 76″ Hayrake Dining room table with 2 – 12″ leaves with a geared top. She wants as much leg room as possible when her large family gathers and she seat as many as can possibly squeeze around the table. I am trying to figure out just how “narrow” I can make the base and still remain stable. With a 30″ wide base, (leg to leg) that would be about 8″ from leg to edge of table. I bought Mike Pekovich plans, which are awesome. Is there a formula to calculate this?
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It’s a 4 legs table, narrowing the base will not increase seating capacity. The only gain I would see is about the ends having 19 inches of overhang for two to seat side by side at each end. Lengthwise, if you would want to fit 3 chairs you need at least 60 inches between the legs so you will be left with about 5 inches of overhang, 17 inches with the extensions which is about right for seating 10.
Thx, the table will seat 8 normally. But she wants to squeeze as many as possible when all her family visit her lake house, where this will be. This which will include sitting in front of a leg. I am trying to maximize the distance from table edge to leg, which is about 9" with 30" width for legs.
I expect you can build the base as per the plan and add the extension mechanism and the larger top with no problem. It should work fine that way.
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I'm trying to increase the dim shown here as 8 5/8"
why ?
I imagine you could reduce the width of the undercarriage a bit but what are you going to modify to make that happen? You can shorten the diagonal stretchers a bit but you'll probably want to increase the length of the central stretcher and the long aprons to keep the length of the base the same.
Tipping occurs when the centre of gravity moves outside the line bounded by the legs.
A robust and heavy table like this is not very likely to tip, but wider legs have two advantages - the low-down weight is further from weight placed on top of the table, thus moving the centre of gravity inwards, and the wider base means that centre of gravity has to move further in order to tip.
If you want to extend the dimension noted, then you will increase the risk of tipping, though it depends on two factors really - how heavy the additional timber will be, and how heavy the legs will be. If you increase the mass of the legs, then you can reduce the risk. If you thin out the edge, you will reduce the risk. Tables of this design are like perfect chickens - a leg for everybody...
Why not make a quick mockup and see what is comfortable - just a piece of 4x2 under your own table would do the job...
Ignore the top for now. The four legs are the only points where they interfere with people sitting.
Set four objects down on the floor where the legs will be, in your initial plan at least. Now get actual chairs and set them out around your mock table. For evenly spaced chairs, there isnot a lot of wiggle room. But the legscan be moved.
Move your fake legs so they don't interfere with your sitters. That's the size of your base. Theron is almost an afterthought. I've sat at tables that had no leg obstructions with much less than 8-5/8" overhang, and table legs that obstructed seating with much more. Careful design will help you figure it out. Doing it life-size is easier to see than on paper.
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