Do you have a link/article/advice on how to apply white glue to substrate and veneer and later after it has dried, using an iron to melt the glue for contact? What is temp of the iron? How do you know if the bond is cured enough to stop heating? How to prevent scorching? ECT.
Thank you,
Don
Replies
Don,
MArio Rodriguez wrote an article about this technique in FWW #108.
Ed
I've used the heat reactivation methodology described to veneer small crosses for some churchitational work (crosses) worked like a charm. Cross was 9"ish high, 2" thick, 12 pieces per cross, 4 crosses each piece, 2 pieces, it was efficient. 96 pieces of veneer in total.
In fact, as an aside, it was my knowledge of the existance of this technique that let me bid the job with a modicum of certainty of completion for this aspect , and coupled with all the other furniture pieces bundled along with it, it wasn't gonna be a low paying proposition, like some jobs end up to be.
The point of that last observation? well....
A full set of FWW, back to day one, is gonna cost 400-600 bucks on the used market, not a paltry sum, but when contrasted with the fees that some folks charge for a "how to use a router" course, it stands up to a value for money quite well doncha think?
As for when is the temp too high, well, you gotta do some trials.
I've scammed some granite countertop samples which I've glued some leather on one face, and that lets me apply pressure (mostly to melamine edgebanding), and a heat-sink to cool the piece at the same time. That might work for you too. When I did the crosses, I just used scrap MDF pieces to rub and then hold the veneer down after heating it.
Hope that helps.
Eric in Cowtown.
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